what are you planning to do with your car this year (or next)?
10-17-2017, 07:44 PM
#392
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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hey Van,
when i get the '68 back east, i'll cruise by the house.
btw, you'd be crazy not to see Copart since the big flood [and dial 'F'.]
omfg what fitty grand can get you on a trailer right now.
when i get the '68 back east, i'll cruise by the house.
btw, you'd be crazy not to see Copart since the big flood [and dial 'F'.]
omfg what fitty grand can get you on a trailer right now.
10-17-2017, 11:54 PM
#393
Rennlist Member
Let's see: I keep a detailed spreadsheet of all expenditures, minus gasoline, insurance and yearly taxes/registration fees.
Purchased 5.5 yrs ago : $3,900.00
Maintenance/repair/restoration/spare parts inventory: $21,634.86
Total invested: $25,534.86
Yearly average: $4,642.70
However: I've only spent $719.00 on parts/labor this year (2017), not including $300.00 on a pair of sport seats and a spare dashboard. I think I'm close to Maserati level upkeep...
Purchased 5.5 yrs ago : $3,900.00
Maintenance/repair/restoration/spare parts inventory: $21,634.86
Total invested: $25,534.86
Yearly average: $4,642.70
However: I've only spent $719.00 on parts/labor this year (2017), not including $300.00 on a pair of sport seats and a spare dashboard. I think I'm close to Maserati level upkeep...
10-18-2017, 04:29 AM
#394
Three Wheelin'
This winter I'm really going to install EFI on my red 924.
Next year I plan to drive them both and enjoy both my GTS wannabe and my 931 at least as much as I did this year.
Next year I plan to drive them both and enjoy both my GTS wannabe and my 931 at least as much as I did this year.
10-18-2017, 01:15 PM
#395
Pro
Here's what I plan to do:
Option 1 - Continue restoring/updating car to my liking:
- Solve intermittent stalling/ignition/DME issue...again
- Reseal hatch.... again.
- Replace Turbo thermo sensor
- Drop fuel tank and replace old rubber things
- Diagnose sticking throttle (due to throttle rebuild, or motor mounts, other?)
- Install 'Window Express' modules.
Option 1 - Continue restoring/updating car to my liking:
- K27/6 or other streetable turbo upgrade
- Standalone engine management or Focus 9 DME.
- Swap LR dual-port WG for Tial?
- Install sport seats (need recovering first)
10-18-2017, 02:05 PM
#396
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are you guys having hatch issues?
why, when you have this INSANELY AMAZING stuff (the pro's use) only a click away?
why, when you have this INSANELY AMAZING stuff (the pro's use) only a click away?
10-18-2017, 02:14 PM
#397
Pro
I used good 'pro' stuff (Sika P2G), Primerless also. Stuck really well to the glass. However, when I cleaned up the frame I used etching primer and paint, which must not have been compatible with one another. Adhesive pulled the paint right off the frame.
10-19-2017, 10:15 AM
#398
Racer
Thinking of planning...
Mircrosquirt my 84NA. Not for any other reason than just playing.
Goals:
1. Design to be plug and play as much as possible so I can easily return it to stock.
2. Use module and make my own system.
3. Make peak hold circuit using TI DRV110 solenoid driver and use existing injectors.
4. Retrofit cheap Ford or GM TPS sensor and 3D print an adaptor for the stock TB.
5. Use existing harness as much as possible.
6. Make design (PCB's) open source
Mircrosquirt my 84NA. Not for any other reason than just playing.
Goals:
1. Design to be plug and play as much as possible so I can easily return it to stock.
2. Use module and make my own system.
3. Make peak hold circuit using TI DRV110 solenoid driver and use existing injectors.
4. Retrofit cheap Ford or GM TPS sensor and 3D print an adaptor for the stock TB.
5. Use existing harness as much as possible.
6. Make design (PCB's) open source
10-19-2017, 11:00 AM
#399
Rennlist Member
^ if you can figure out a solid way to make MS work smoothly with the stock speed/reference sensors, I'll love you forever. There are a few people who have reported making them work but the details are fuzzy and a lot of people have failed to replicate the results.
10-19-2017, 11:45 AM
#400
Racer
^ I have read your experiences and others and I don't think I am going to tilt at that windmill. I will probably use the 36-1 reluctor wheel and use one of the reference center wires in the harness to bring that back to the ecu...
However I think I can make using the speed and ref sensors work but it would require sending those signals to a conditioning circuit whose output would emulate a reluctor wheel which then goes to MS. However that emulation circuit would probably be more costly and take time to develop as compared to just slopping on the wheel.....
But the peak hold circuit with stock injectors is a no brainer. I think I can build that circuit for less than $40 versus buying 4 hi-z injectors. And putting series resistors on lo-z injectors is not a good solution IMO.
However I think I can make using the speed and ref sensors work but it would require sending those signals to a conditioning circuit whose output would emulate a reluctor wheel which then goes to MS. However that emulation circuit would probably be more costly and take time to develop as compared to just slopping on the wheel.....
But the peak hold circuit with stock injectors is a no brainer. I think I can build that circuit for less than $40 versus buying 4 hi-z injectors. And putting series resistors on lo-z injectors is not a good solution IMO.
10-20-2017, 12:48 AM
#401
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couple of new pieces on the way; (200mph gps speedo and new tach for the 1st round of the instrument upgrade).
template for the tach has my little tweak for the updated look.....
someone pm'd if i had any photos of the front without the lights installed.
here's with and without the lamps.....
'
template for the tach has my little tweak for the updated look.....
someone pm'd if i had any photos of the front without the lights installed.
here's with and without the lamps.....
'
Last edited by odurandina; 10-22-2017 at 03:42 PM.
10-20-2017, 09:47 AM
#402
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
can't hurt to ask Raceboy how he got it to work for VEMS.
MS and VEMS seem to be similar enough in a lot of ways, maybe the trick that makes the stock sensors work for one can work for the other..
MS and VEMS seem to be similar enough in a lot of ways, maybe the trick that makes the stock sensors work for one can work for the other..
Thinking of planning...
Mircrosquirt my 84NA. Not for any other reason than just playing.
Goals:
1. Design to be plug and play as much as possible so I can easily return it to stock.
2. Use module and make my own system.
3. Make peak hold circuit using TI DRV110 solenoid driver and use existing injectors.
4. Retrofit cheap Ford or GM TPS sensor and 3D print an adaptor for the stock TB.
5. Use existing harness as much as possible.
6. Make design (PCB's) open source
Mircrosquirt my 84NA. Not for any other reason than just playing.
Goals:
1. Design to be plug and play as much as possible so I can easily return it to stock.
2. Use module and make my own system.
3. Make peak hold circuit using TI DRV110 solenoid driver and use existing injectors.
4. Retrofit cheap Ford or GM TPS sensor and 3D print an adaptor for the stock TB.
5. Use existing harness as much as possible.
6. Make design (PCB's) open source
^ I have read your experiences and others and I don't think I am going to tilt at that windmill. I will probably use the 36-1 reluctor wheel and use one of the reference center wires in the harness to bring that back to the ecu...
However I think I can make using the speed and ref sensors work but it would require sending those signals to a conditioning circuit whose output would emulate a reluctor wheel which then goes to MS. However that emulation circuit would probably be more costly and take time to develop as compared to just slopping on the wheel.....
But the peak hold circuit with stock injectors is a no brainer. I think I can build that circuit for less than $40 versus buying 4 hi-z injectors. And putting series resistors on lo-z injectors is not a good solution IMO.
However I think I can make using the speed and ref sensors work but it would require sending those signals to a conditioning circuit whose output would emulate a reluctor wheel which then goes to MS. However that emulation circuit would probably be more costly and take time to develop as compared to just slopping on the wheel.....
But the peak hold circuit with stock injectors is a no brainer. I think I can build that circuit for less than $40 versus buying 4 hi-z injectors. And putting series resistors on lo-z injectors is not a good solution IMO.
10-20-2017, 10:20 AM
#403
Racer
^ yes it can't hurt but I wouldn't expect or encourage Raceboy to divulge his competitive advantage IP....
I'd expect that the VR sensor processing can be done with a good firmware signal processing algorithm which isn't a **** I would have in MS.
I'd expect that the VR sensor processing can be done with a good firmware signal processing algorithm which isn't a **** I would have in MS.
10-20-2017, 08:39 PM
#404
Rennlist Member
Timing and balance shaft belts - this week
Alternator belt - this week
Cam seal - before year end
Front crank seal - "
Cam tensioner pads - "
Check cam chains - "
Cam tower gasket - "
Rod bearings - Winter '18
Oil pan gasket - "
Rear coil over & torsion bar delete - Fall, '18
Alternator belt - this week
Cam seal - before year end
Front crank seal - "
Cam tensioner pads - "
Check cam chains - "
Cam tower gasket - "
Rod bearings - Winter '18
Oil pan gasket - "
Rear coil over & torsion bar delete - Fall, '18
10-22-2017, 03:00 PM
#405
Team Owner
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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my front bumper has taken a lot of abuse during the past 5 years and 100k miles since i did the front end update....
surgery will have to commence.
repairing the damaged bumpers is a great winter project!
for strength/large areas to be repaired, use;
3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Urethane Adhesive DP601NS
3M ID 62265250316, 3M Product Number 601NS, UPC 00021200964077 (color; white, straw, or black)
or Devcon DA291 Plastic Welder or Devcon 14340 Plastic Welder II Adhesive (color; white, straw or black)
outer layer/finish sanding, use;
3M 35887 EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair - 50 ml
adhesion promoter pads;
3M 06396 Adhesion Promoter, Sponge Applicator, 2.5cc (Five Packets, 5 Pack)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-06396-...Pack/347457817
bumpers are very unforgiving to poor prep, technique and improper adhesives.
the 3m video shows us how to do it right.
it's extremely important to use adhesion promoter after cleaning sanded areas with the air gun or shop towel + plastic cleaner (ammonia). avoid using petroleum based solvents to clean polyurethane and plastic substrates. for ground in dirt, you begin with denatured alcohol and scrub pad... but always finish with your unscented industrial ammonia... then the 3m adhesion promoter.
the video appears to end, but continues with the 2nd part where they repair the back of the bumper.....
surgery will have to commence.
repairing the damaged bumpers is a great winter project!
for strength/large areas to be repaired, use;
3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Urethane Adhesive DP601NS
3M ID 62265250316, 3M Product Number 601NS, UPC 00021200964077 (color; white, straw, or black)
or Devcon DA291 Plastic Welder or Devcon 14340 Plastic Welder II Adhesive (color; white, straw or black)
outer layer/finish sanding, use;
3M 35887 EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair - 50 ml
adhesion promoter pads;
3M 06396 Adhesion Promoter, Sponge Applicator, 2.5cc (Five Packets, 5 Pack)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-06396-...Pack/347457817
bumpers are very unforgiving to poor prep, technique and improper adhesives.
the 3m video shows us how to do it right.
it's extremely important to use adhesion promoter after cleaning sanded areas with the air gun or shop towel + plastic cleaner (ammonia). avoid using petroleum based solvents to clean polyurethane and plastic substrates. for ground in dirt, you begin with denatured alcohol and scrub pad... but always finish with your unscented industrial ammonia... then the 3m adhesion promoter.
the video appears to end, but continues with the 2nd part where they repair the back of the bumper.....
Last edited by odurandina; 10-22-2017 at 10:30 PM.