Mike C.

My fuel pump doesn't make much noise but I'm sure if someone can slide under the right rear corner a bit and put a hand on it (while cranking) it should be obvious if it is running. If the check valve is working properly and there are no leaks elsewhere, the pressure should stay up when you stop cranking. If you open the fuel rail at this point and no fuel sprays out, you are not getting fuel (or very little). BTW, the fuel filter wouldn't have any effect on ease of cranking- the load on the electrical system from the fuel pump isn't going to have a significant drain on the electrical system.

Mike C.

Also, you can test the speed/ref sensors with an ohm meter (per Clark's for specs IIRC). Typically, if the tach bounces and you're getting spark, they are good since they are two of the minimum inputs the DME must have before it will cooperate.

Mike C.

rgs944, I think you mentioned it in a post somewhere else (that I can't find now) but what are you using for the rear fender stone shields? I think that looks good on a white car. Did you have to modify them?

roman944

ok well, back with some results

put in the fuel pressure gauge

jumped the relay

fuel gauge shows 36 - which it should - new fuel pressure regulator

not sure what the gauge should show when I am cranking the car though

also, when we went to remove the gauge - fuel started spraying form the end of the fuel rail

I think I'm going to wait a bit for gas that sprayed out to evaporate, then will try starting the car again

this has been a nighmare ... could it be weak spark?

dontnow

I haven't read the whole thread for a few days, so I'll ask some basics...You have fuel pressure, that is good. Have you tried pulling an ignition cable and check the spark with a spark plug? Easy tester..http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...cker-4424.html

To check the injector pulse..use a noid light..http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-Piece-E.../dp/B0002KO4I2

You can also make your own, but I don't know if it is any cheaper.

With the noid light, you verify the injectors are getting pulses, and the spark test obviously checks for sparks.

Mike C.

I wouldn't expect the fuel pressure to change during cranking. Try it again and then immediately pull a plug. If it looks/smells of raw fuel then you'll have to dig deeper in the weak/intermittent spark department. How long did you let it crank? Maybe try a little ether again to verify something will burn.

roman944

let it crank for a few seconds, certainly enough to start

we want to try to jump start it from another car ... though I doubt this would work

maybe something is wrong with my new "autozone" starter? when we first put it in we forgot that one little cable - and car would turn but never start too ... but I don't have another good one to check ...

roman944

if I were to go in deeper, where would I start?

find a used computer? any way to check any of the wiring, connectors?

Mike C.

Why? is it cranking very slowly? If the starter is engaging and turning over the motor then it is working (although other issues could cause it to crank too slowly). If it is cranking at normal speed then the starter isn't the problem. You may be able to find a good used DME (computer) cheap from someone here. Or do you know anyone closeby who would let you swap in theirs for a test? Have you gotten a timing light to check if the no. 1 plug is being fired at the correct time? I would also check that you do get a healthy spark from all four.

roman944

at the moment I have 3 DME's - 1 from the car, 1 I ordered before, and 1 I ordered from Pelican last week

but if I hear the pump turn on while the car is being cranked ... wouldn't that eliminate the DME?

shiners780

Dude. DME=computer. DME relay=DME relay.

Mark944na86

DME relay:



DME:



Note: Not to scale.

Jfrahm

Autozone starter? Is it spinning backwards?

Mike C.

Good question!

roman944

Sorry Jim, will try to keep it clear from now on ... DME Relay - have 3 of them ...

how can it be spinning backwards?