MichaelK

Isn't the important thing that each cylinder is close to the rest? I thought they should be within a few PSI of each other.

My car has one cylinder that rang up at 130 and the rest were at 170 and I was told that wasn't good. It has run fine since then though.

roman944

I think Clark's says that cylinders should be within 10% of each other ... or maybe that's what my Haynes manual says ... can't remember now

so, some of my goodies have been shipped already

why are we getting a REALLY strong fuel smell when cranking? car isn't burning fuel up? can my pump be putting out too much fuel?

roman944

so we tried to start the car with starting fluid

heard a nice explosion, but the car did not start

so I guess all my air-part of equation works, and my car has spark

why still a no start though?

StoogeMoe

Roman,

I don't remember you saying you checked spark at each cylinder. I don't think your rotor is turning.

roman944

Stoogie - its turning, just went out and removed the distributor car - its in the different position from when I set the engine to TDC to check if my timing marks still align

Mike C.

Mine checks in around 160 psi (early '85)

rgs944

You really need to do a compression check at this point on each cylinder. I would not do or order a single thing untill you find out compression at each cylinder. If compression is good then check spark again, if spark is good then go to fuel issues again.

Mike C.

So you do get brief ignition with ether... I wonder if it's possible the DME is somehow damaged and isn't sending the firing the plug at the right time? A timing light will answer this one. I'll be curious to see if fuel pressure is up to spec. If the spark happens at the right time and you have fuel, the mixture may be too lean (or rich) to burn. Did you pull out a plug after trying to start and was it wet with fuel?

roman944

Mike - no, did not

going to see if Jim will be able to stop by with his compression tool and help us out with this one

the "bang" we heard indicates that there is spark, right?

maybe there is some kind of a connector or wire that goes to DME or something that got loose or something ... though, how would that work - if I heard the fuel pump come on when I used the Y-connector instead of DME ...

issue could be too much fuel ... cause by what?

roman944

how about this:

http://www.redlinemotive.com/replace...eregulator.asp

sounds like the problem my car was having

ALSO, we tried to see how much fuel/how fast it would go from dampener (just like with the fuel rail) - and the glass 850ml cam in at around 25 seconds

rgs944

Roman, I just experianced a engine personally that wasa no start that had a weak #1 cylinder. I wish I was there to run the test for you. You been over a lot of things. A compression test is so damn easy and it would tell you if you are wasting your time on a lot of other things. If you have a tester in front of you we are talking about 5 mins to check. You checked spark and timing and both sounded OK, you have been over and over the fuel system with no luck, it is now time to check compression. I do not want to sound like I am preaching but it is needed information and so easy to check.

roman944

I hear you, and we'll try to get it done ASAP - waiting to hear from Jim, if not that, then I'll ask some other friends and see if I can get the tool form Autozone or something

would rather try to do it right with the tool, no?

Roger Collins

Don't know if it has come up in this post yet, but check the reference sensors

roman944

my tach bounces, which supposedly means that my speed/ref sensors are good

still believe my problem is with the fuel/system though

hopefully I'll hear form Jim about the compression test soon, or will just rent one from Autozone and see what happens

shiners780

Hey Roman, I'll stop over tomorrow afternoon around 2:00ish. Be sure your battery is charged up, all that cranking is probably running it down.