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Old 12-16-2010, 06:49 PM
  #181  
odurandina
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calling mr. goodwrench.

or you can have my motor, w/ new everything, accessories, dme and exhaust for $3,400.00.
Old 12-16-2010, 07:12 PM
  #182  
Kerry Chadderton
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Ah...that's a hard question to answer Roman. Try reading this for the epic details:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...new-owner.html

First it was the sensors, then it was the DME. I did every single electrical test on Clark's Garage, 994online and a couple others. Fuel, ignition, alarm system, grounds, you name it! The beauty of this LED test is that it will tell you if signal is getting through all the wiring AND if the signal is strong enough for the DME. That's why the LEDs are two different voltages.
Old 12-17-2010, 03:57 AM
  #183  
Mark944na86
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Originally Posted by roman944
that sounds like an easy test - I should have enough time on Sunday to pick these up and do this ... THANK YOU !
An even easier test would be to swap in a known good DME.

Originally Posted by roman944
so did it end up being your sensors or?
If you read his post as carefully as I did, you will see that his sensors were fine, but his DME was bad.
Old 12-17-2010, 06:19 AM
  #184  
roman944
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I'm always in a rush ... known good DME computer (not the relay, correct?) already have one ... how hard is it to take it out?
Old 12-17-2010, 06:37 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by roman944
I'm always in a rush ... known good DME computer (not the relay, correct?) already have one ... how hard is it to take it out?
Not hard. Clark's describes it all in detail. You actually hace to remove and unplug the DME to do the LED diagnostic trick... that's why I said just swapping in a known good DME is actually easier.

BTW, not to be pedantic, but you have another DME, but not another _known good_ DME. You really don't know if the used DME you have just bought is working or not. A known good DME is one that you can see running a car in your driveway twenty minutes before it is plugged into your car... like Joe's. Just sayin'.

In general, the fewer assumptions you have to make when troubleshooting in a situation like this, the better.
Old 12-17-2010, 09:19 PM
  #186  
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What does swapping a DME have to do with checking the sensors???
Do the LED test, that method is a great idea. I bought a scope off bay to do it.
Old 12-18-2010, 12:10 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by joes
What does swapping a DME have to do with checking the sensors???
Read post #178.
Old 12-18-2010, 11:13 AM
  #188  
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Just thinking out of the box here. Have you checked you battery. Voltage ok but anps low? Bad voltage reg? Failing alt.? Do a search and you'll see a few posts about the problems this has caused others.
Good luck.
Old 12-18-2010, 11:35 AM
  #189  
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I believe your problem is the DME Temperature Sensor. PN 944 606 125 00
See Clarkes Garage troubleshooting procedure "Elect-19".
You can get the car running and prove this is the part with a 10 cent resistor from Radio Shack (Does Radio Shack even sell resistors anymore, or am I just showing my age?) by putting the correct resistor in place of the PN listed above. The resistance value will depend on the temperature. See "Elect-19" for the values. I found the DME Temperature Sensor to be under $15 if you shop around. Good luck!
Old 01-03-2011, 02:17 PM
  #190  
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Any new news Roman? Change that gas yet?
Old 01-04-2011, 06:23 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Van
Any new news Roman? Change that gas yet?
stalled for the New Years ... LOL

my brother is going to remove DME computer today, and we'll put in this other one I bought with the AFM - see if it will start

I also asked him to drain gas, if he doesn't forget - we'll run out and get some good 89

if its neither of these things, going to check the reference sensors - gotta read up Clark's on how to do it

if it's still nothing, then I may try a brand new battery just for kicks ...

working good long hours at the moment, not a lot of "play" time

I was second-guessing myself on which gas I got, car ran like crap on 87 OR 91+, and I do NOT know why

damn, EDIT: how much bounce should there be on the tach?
Old 01-04-2011, 07:21 AM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by roman944
damn, EDIT: how much bounce should there be on the tach?
Just a little. On my car it's 500 RPM or so.
Old 01-04-2011, 07:21 PM
  #193  
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ah well,

right now, the fuel gauge goes crazy when I try to start the car

RPM gauge just BARELY bounces

switched the DME computers - car didn't start

told my brother and my dad to drain the gas out of it while I'm at work tomorrow, I'll have them pick up a couple gallons of fresh 89

gotta see Clark's on how to check reference sensors ...
Old 01-20-2011, 06:37 PM
  #194  
roman944
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got 2 new speed/reference sensors form Paragon - my brother took the old ones off, and here's 1 of them:



replaced them - tried to start - car still didn't start ... anything special needs to be done after changing speed/reference sensors?
Old 01-21-2011, 06:17 AM
  #195  
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I just re-read Clark's - and I looked at my old sensors, how do I even know if they had proper clearance? I don't see anything that looks like a washer or anything on the bottom ...

this could be my problem at the moment?


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