no start ...
#136
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This symptom is pointing to an "air problem".
Just sayin'...
#138
Drifting
Thread Starter
and another update:
went out to test the ignition coil
put the volt meter on the ends - got NO reading in ohms or volts
removed the connectors - cleaned well - put back on - put voltmeter on again - NO reading again in ohms or volts
removed connectors again - put voltmeter on them - got GOOD 12 volts
so I think this may be the cause of my NO start !!!
yes there is spark ... but not a lot, not like was described a few posts above ... and yes ... car was in the ON position when all these were done ...
went out to test the ignition coil
put the volt meter on the ends - got NO reading in ohms or volts
removed the connectors - cleaned well - put back on - put voltmeter on again - NO reading again in ohms or volts
removed connectors again - put voltmeter on them - got GOOD 12 volts
so I think this may be the cause of my NO start !!!
yes there is spark ... but not a lot, not like was described a few posts above ... and yes ... car was in the ON position when all these were done ...
#141
Find a ECU and AFM from another car for testing. My bet is it starts right up. Better yet, buy a ECU and AFM from a later car and update yours. Should be some on Ebay. Even if it turns out not to be the problem your car will run much better than it ever did when it quite, after you get it going of course.
#143
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what kind of shape are the plug wires in?
im leaning toward weak spark after reading this whole thread .
look it just my two cents but change cap , rotor , wires, plugs and coil ....use all oem bosch . make sure plugs are bosch coppers !! ian @ 944 on line can send it all.....if its still doing it , youve got a good tune up and you can least rule that out... how about the wire / plug connection ?? im just thinking and hoping its something simple /... plug gap ok ?? good luck my man , and dont give up!!! keep us posted. thanks.
im leaning toward weak spark after reading this whole thread .
look it just my two cents but change cap , rotor , wires, plugs and coil ....use all oem bosch . make sure plugs are bosch coppers !! ian @ 944 on line can send it all.....if its still doing it , youve got a good tune up and you can least rule that out... how about the wire / plug connection ?? im just thinking and hoping its something simple /... plug gap ok ?? good luck my man , and dont give up!!! keep us posted. thanks.
#145
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oh and i failed to mention , the only no start problem ive had on the s2 turned out to be the fpr ( fuel pressure reg ) . car started right up after new one, at that time i added lindsey guage to fuel rail im running 52 psi @ idle , dave said spec is 3.3 bar ( or approx 49 psi ) . just wanted to share...
#146
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what kind of shape are the plug wires in?
im leaning toward weak spark after reading this whole thread .
look it just my two cents but change cap , rotor , wires, plugs and coil ....use all oem bosch . make sure plugs are bosch coppers !! ian @ 944 on line can send it all.....if its still doing it , youve got a good tune up and you can least rule that out... how about the wire / plug connection ?? im just thinking and hoping its something simple /... plug gap ok ?? good luck my man , and dont give up!!! keep us posted. thanks.
im leaning toward weak spark after reading this whole thread .
look it just my two cents but change cap , rotor , wires, plugs and coil ....use all oem bosch . make sure plugs are bosch coppers !! ian @ 944 on line can send it all.....if its still doing it , youve got a good tune up and you can least rule that out... how about the wire / plug connection ?? im just thinking and hoping its something simple /... plug gap ok ?? good luck my man , and dont give up!!! keep us posted. thanks.
#147
Drifting
Thread Starter
the only thing that hasn't been changed yet are the spark plug wires
already has new cap, rotor, plugs, and now new coil
changed the FPR
switched between 3 DME relays (2 brand new)
tach boucnes
has spark
going to look on Ebay at the computer/AFM ... any way to test for sure?
fear that maybe there is something wrong internally ...
already has new cap, rotor, plugs, and now new coil
changed the FPR
switched between 3 DME relays (2 brand new)
tach boucnes
has spark
going to look on Ebay at the computer/AFM ... any way to test for sure?
fear that maybe there is something wrong internally ...
Last edited by roman944; 12-02-2010 at 12:06 AM.
#149
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Roman -- my man -- read posts 116 and 117, and promise us once and for all you will stop doing this. It makes it unnecessarily confusing for the casual observer to figure out where you are up to in troubleshooting. You wouldn't call an "engine mount" an "engine".
Capisce?
Now, I think having replaced the coil, the DME (not the DME relay!) is probably next on the list to try out. Keep following the "free" suggestions like Van's one above too... you never know.
Another "free" suggestion -- make sure you haven't got any loose or broken sensor to DME connections (e.g., AFM connector is properly plugged in). An unplugged sensor is going to ruin your DME's day.
If you get a replacement DME, if you get a late model one (with a matching late model AFM), then you get the added bonus of being able to "chip" it reasonably easily, if you still want to do that. Although I'm not a great fan of aftermarket chps for NAs (the gains are real, but they are really pretty small), the FRWilk chips are probably about a price point now that the cost/benefit ratio is justifiable (at least for me).
Keep plugging away systematically... you'll find it.
I have a vibration at startup. I've now swapped in two new engines, and it still occurs.
Now, I think having replaced the coil, the DME (not the DME relay!) is probably next on the list to try out. Keep following the "free" suggestions like Van's one above too... you never know.
Another "free" suggestion -- make sure you haven't got any loose or broken sensor to DME connections (e.g., AFM connector is properly plugged in). An unplugged sensor is going to ruin your DME's day.
If you get a replacement DME, if you get a late model one (with a matching late model AFM), then you get the added bonus of being able to "chip" it reasonably easily, if you still want to do that. Although I'm not a great fan of aftermarket chps for NAs (the gains are real, but they are really pretty small), the FRWilk chips are probably about a price point now that the cost/benefit ratio is justifiable (at least for me).
Keep plugging away systematically... you'll find it.
Last edited by Mark944na86; 12-02-2010 at 12:46 AM. Reason: LOL capishe -> capisce
#150
Drifting
Thread Starter
yeah Mark, caught myself do that again ... going to see if anyone is parting out a car
Van - I don't know about bad gas ... should be good, I only use 89
Van - I don't know about bad gas ... should be good, I only use 89