shiners780

The wires appear to be fine. No visible cracks/cuts. Roman, you can always check them for arching by cranking the car in the garage at night with the lights off.
I checked the gap on all 4 plugs, ok there.
I have a spare AFM on the shelf, and we can swap the DME out of my car. At least we can rule these two things out.
In addition, if you switch to a late DME and AFM you need to change the injectors as well.

Mark944na86

Ah, didnt know that ... I guess it starts adding up. Maybe ask Lart if he can do one of his "package deals"?

rgs944

I have not heard that you need different injectors when updating the computer and afm. Mine runs perfect with the old injectors and post 85.5 ECU and AFM.

shiners780

The difference in injector flow rates (something like 8 cc/min) haven't negatively affected your a/f ratios? Or does the late AFM compensate enough for this to not be an issue?

roman944

didn't know that either ... no one ever mentioned that before

regardless, anyone has any leads on a good computer/afm? Jim - if you have time sometime soon - let me know - and I'll tell my dad/brother

rgs944

I have not done any tests other than driving the car but it feels completely normal to me. Good seamless power all the way to redline and smooth idle.

athens944

I have an early AFM and DME computer from my 83 I am parting.

roman944

PM'd ... more info

roman944

short update:

some of the local guys are still saying that this still very well could be my battery ... so I just send $$$ to Mike for his early DME computer and AFM ... all else fails, I'll have good spares

fwb42

Maybe a little late with this question,but can you push start your car ?

Mark944na86

I'd take up Jim on his kind offer first if I were you. If swapping the DME to a known good one doesn't fix your problem, then I'd start looking closely at your wiring -- start tracing connections systematically for connectivity.

A broken/loose connection somewhere would be consistent with the way it was starting a couple of times earlier on, and then cutting out again.

Mike C.

Most often, the broken/loose connection is at the speed/reference sensors for the flywheel. Did you ever check them with a ohm meter per Clark's? The plastic connectors are known to crumble due to aged plastic (and heat, no doubt). They can cause intermittent starting problems although it would show up as no spark... The AFM can also be checked with an ohm meter and I'm pretty sure the DME has to have air flow measurement.

roman944

I assumed that since the tach bounces, its not reference/speed sensors

the car stalled as I was driving it and wouldn't start, connector broken while driving? kind of doubt it, but I guess you never know ... I'll wait for the AFM and computer to come in - try those two, if it's not either of them - I can rule out air/fuel/spark - and move into reference/speed sensors

think we might try and see if the car will start with a different battery too

Mark944na86

Yeah, if swapping in a known good DME didn't work, the next thing I'd be looking at closely is the AFM sensor and connections with an ohm meter.

Mark944na86

You think a wire or connector is more likely to break when the car is sitting still than when the car is running and vibrating?