The washer is only used to check the proper clearance. In theory if you took the old sensors out and did not make any adjustments or move the mounting bracket for them, then you should be able to install the new ones without having to check the clearance. Thats how I understood it after reading the article on clarks garage. Someone with more experience please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

How did changing the gas go?

 

Van - once we found the sensor was bad, decided to hold off on gas until new sensors would be here and installed

a friend of mine, local too, just went through something similar - after installing new sensors in - he had no fuel out of the fuel rail - took DME relay out and plugged it back in - and his car started

so I am going to try the same thing, maybe my DME relay is/was bad too, not sure which one is in the car at the moment

weirdest thing is that I still don't see RPM tach bounce at all even after new sensors got installed

 

pulled the relay out, plugged back in, took the nut off the fuel rail and fuel sprayed out - so I'm all good there, but car didn't start

I think at the moment, the battery is old, car sat for 2 months, so I'll let it charge overnight and try again tomorrow

 

Speed and Reference sensor information:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/ign-02.pdf

 

Why do you think think the sensor was "bad"? Because of the cracked connector? Did you actually test the sensor function using the diode test when you had the DME out?

 

OK, now it sounds like you got (at least) two reasons your car won't start -- this, and the original reason. I'd get these fixed first (use the diode test to verify they are both working properly.)

 

I have a feeling that the plugs on the sensors were not plugged in correctly, any harm would be done if I switched how they are plugged in?

on the sensor, its cracked all around, not just 1 chunk missing, but because of how its positioned, and possibly lack of light on my side, it was hard to spot before?

 

On my car it would run ok then driving down the road would just cut out . I put in a good working relay and it worked fine for a very short while then cutting out again and then a no start at all. Turbo 951 a friend of mine came over and he started to wiggle the relay in the fuse box with me trying to start the car and it would only run if it was held in a certain possition if he let go of the relay it would turn off . I replaced the fuse box and have not had an issue since. I think if I was to of unplugged the wire harness from the bottom of the fuse box and cleaned and reinstalled all the connections I would not of needed to replace the box . Must of been dirty contacts in my wiring harness to fuse box. Might be worth a try easy to do . Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

 

thanks, will try that!

 

ok ... so we changed the bad sensor, and now I get no bounce on the tach ... car still turns over like it wants to start but doesn't

my brother changed the sensors (speed and reference) - did them 1 at a time

 

Well, lots of posts on 'no tach bounce'... check out Clarks-garage, and search. I suppose fix that first and then if still no start, come back to this thread.

 

I just came accross this thread and read the WHOLE thing. Has Roman been able to get his car running????

 

lol just read this whole thread too and am dying to know if it got sorted! I am almost willing to fly up there to help fix. PLEASE someone tell me if this got started

 

Guess I could just call autozone and see if got sorted