carreracoupe997

1) Balance shaft covers cannot be interchanged. "Mated" at factory to that particular block. They will leak if mixed up or another cover is used 95% of the time. Could you have mixed up the covers?

2) Convert power steering to manual. Simple and no cost plus a quicker ratio than a manual rack.

peanut

I have never removed and replaced the balance shafts but like the crankshaft the mating surfaces need to be perfectly aligned and free from distortion or defects . But to lose that amount of oil I would guess that something is preventing the front housing from mating properly with the block face.

Is it possible that any parts of the two balance shaft parts could have been mixed up ?

I think I would have tried cleaning everything dry and then dry assembling the lot with some quick setting silicon on the mating surfaces. When you pull of the housing you should be able to see any areas of the face of the housing that are not being pulled down onto the block squarely.

it sounds crude but it should work You'd need to be very careful not to get any bits of silicon into the oilways of course.

I've just noticed you have put it all back together again so good luck this time.
edit
looks like we are thinking along similar lines Steve

Amber Gramps

Well? Did all this work?

PerceptionProblem

I converted my rack from power to manual. . Can't say I'm the biggest fan, but it's cheaper than buying a mannyrack for me, and will work until I find someone that wants to buy this recording console! lol. the steering is way more responsive, but you have to be moving or it's a PITA to yank that wheel left or right.

I just removed my belt and PS pulley, would have drained my PS fluid, but I
lost a little rubber stopper and it drained ALL OVER my driveway.


Also: I would be interested in one uber-small part from your old rack if you decide to get rid of it. It's just that little rubber stopper that popped out of mine, and I can't find it anywhere. . .:-/

Elliot9

The two covers are completely different shapes so I know their in the right place. We ran the car for approx. 5 minutes today with just the balance shaft belt and timing belt on (no timing covers or anything) and there wasn't any oil seepage we could see, but with an actual load on the engine that could change. It seemed fine under normal 5 bar pressure though.

It's back together yes and it doesn't seem to be leaking this time. See the above response for more information.

More or less yes it did.

If I do remove it I'll probably sell it as a whole set-up really cheap just to get rid of it as a complete unit. Since you live so close to me we should get together sometime with our cars once mine is road ready.


So, I've managed to stop the oil leak for now but I still have that supercharger belt noise. We've narrowed it down to the balance shaft belt for sure and the pitch of the noise changes based on how much tension is applied to the belt. Is this normal? It's been like this ever since I put it on the first time 2 months ago before all the other problems arose. My teacher says I shouldn't do any harm to anything other than my ears. Does the belt need to settle in or something?

MichaelK

Is it in the hole where you put the centering bolt? My rebuilt rack came with a short bolt and O ring in there. It seems to be getting the job done, if you can't find the part it might work for you.

PerceptionProblem

@MichaelK I don't know where the centering bolt goes. The thing I'm taking about is on the driver's side of the rack. The thing that had rotted out wasn't a bolt, so I don't think it's got threads. . .I need to do more research, but it may just be something I can plug with (as you said) a bolt or some JB weld or something.

(Listers, I promise to never do anything so cavilier without HEAVY research!!)

JohnKoaWood

Balance shaft whine is normal, the belt should be pretty loose, and the noise should die off over time as the belt stretches..

Good job getting it sealed!

Elliot9

Well, hopefully it's sealed, I haven't put a load on it yet all it did was idle with the nose in the air on jack stands. That's exactly what my teacher said and what I was thinking. The teeth on that belt are so damn thick it has got to be pretty loose.


I forgot another question, on the balance shaft belt routing, there is an idler pully that is completely smooth and sits right above the lower balance shaft, should this be pushed up to hold a little tension on the balance shaft belt or should it not be touching anything? I looked at some diagrams and I can't tell.

Landseer

Its possible to put the wrong tensioner on the wrong belt, that is, swap them. Caused mis-alignment but still operated. I did it on an 85.5 for which I bought new tensioners. Aftermarket parts from vertex I think that weren't marked. Bad whine. It was the timing belt cutting into the plastic cover against the block. Drove 3 miles, disassembled and fixed it. Very little / no whine afterwards.

Might be worth pulling the cover to be sure you didn't do that.

Unmistakeable if you did, as there will be a plentitude of melted plastic chards visible. And a groove in the back plastic cover.

peanut

well done fixing the leak.
My engine squeals and whistles like a helicopter when cold but it reduces when warm. Its done this for 3x years. No idea what it is that causes it

bonus12

big congrats on this fix, elliot.


distributor cap(?)?

peanut

??? thought it more likely to be a bearing , roller or belt /guide but I've never bothered to try track it down. Might try revving the engine with the bonnet open this morning

Voith

Well done Now drive it like you stole it!

F40LM

ditto