F40LM

So I have lined up plenty of space now in old Dad's shop. Have lined up the jack stands I will need and believe I have all tools needed to:

-remove the exhaust system
-remove the tranny
-remove the bell housing so I can then..............

look and see if the 'mechanic' the PO had do the new clutch install forgot to include the throw out bearing. I have the clutch and TO from my parts car the throw out is still mounted on it.

So here is a thread for all the 944 gear heads on the forum. Please offer any additional advice before I tackle this job. Examples being:

-no beer until your finished
-stop the job every 10-15 minutes and pray
Oh and my favorite:
(fill in the blank)
FOR GOD'S SAKE WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT ________________.

I have never done this type of job on a car. I have done basic stuff such as changing out starters, alternators, fuel pumps etc. So any and all advice mucho welcome.

Thanks guys,

michael

Mark944na86

Do you have a transmission jack?

F40LM

Not a 'transmission' jack but have a couple of different floor jacks I can use. Was going to set up wood bracing underneath the tranny prior to start lowering it.

Think its worth the $$$ to buy a transmission jack?

Mark944na86

Well, I do, because they're not expensive (< $100), and lowering a transaxle securely, as well as getting it to line up precisely when refitting, can be tricky without one.

krystar

as long as u have multiple people, floor jack is fine.

make sure u clean the cv cheesehead socket holes extremely good. whack the head with a hammer to wake it. seat the cheesehead socket in. tap it in to make sure yer bottoming out and turn firmly.

F40LM

Yep good advice, read that on Clark's as well. Hoping since the car has not been on the road much since the clutch was replaced the bolts won't be froze up that bad.

What are your thoughts on putting anti-seeze on bolts as I put it back together. Thinking down the road......

michael

Mark944na86

You might want to remove your speed and reference sensors, and the ground wires attached to the clutch bellhousing, before you get the car off the ground. Easier to access the engine bay. Try not to drop anything into the inspection holes in bellhousing. I covered mine with tape.

John_AZ

FOR GOD'S SAKE WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT ________________.

Yes, start by taking out the reference sensors unless the PO has cut away the bell housing sensor bracket area. Why get all the way to the sensors at the end of the job and find out they do not come out? DO NOT force them up or you will break in half.

Let the CVs & axels just hang loose. TIE UM UP. Mark location and repack 4 CVs with CV grease------not peanut butter.

Drive shaft Coupler----Get a expensive metric hex---not your hex from the 105 piece tool kit you got for your bike. If you strip the $8 bolts, expect to spend 5 hours drilling and pounding. BTW the bolts get removed completely to slide the coupler back to the transaxle.

DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic line to the slave. Do not press the clutch pedal when the slave is disconnected from the bell housing. You may ruin the seal.

You do not have to remove the reference sensor bracket if you have removed the sensors. See above. If your bracket has a sensor "sleeve" (antistatic sleeve)---use a pick and slide it up. IF you were not able to get the sensors out,,,,well, post and someone will pity you.

YES---YES put the slave back on the bell housing when you assemble the torque tube. You can use the slave to release the clutch disc a tiny bit and the drive shaft will slide right in. THIS WORKS!

YES. Get many plastic bags and stuff the same nuts and bolts inside each bag.
Why guess or spend lost time trying to find the exhaust flange nuts. Did you get new exhaust flange gaskets?? The old ones may be OK.

To be Continued..

GL
John

V2Rocket

good lord i had no idea it was so dangerous

John_AZ

He may need your help with the clock-


https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-86-944-a.html

Cole

If the PO has not cut the bellhousing......CUT IT!!

I notched mine when it came out (picture below). Shortly after the install my KEP PP killed my clutch fork......so the whole thing had to come out again. The job is MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH faster with a notched bell housing.


See the "slotted" opening below. That is after cutting it open. This area is normally just a hole for the sensors.

yellowline

Tonight, use PB Blaster or whatever penetrating oil you like to soak the exhaust fasteners that you plan to break/remove.

944Ross

For dropping/lifting the trans, I used a motorcycle jack. They are about $60 and with just one 2x4 to adjust angle they are just right. Excellent hydraulics for fine movements, put the parallel rails front-to-back on the trans, it will snuggle right in there. You can use your hand to pump it up or release pressure, while laying on your back lining it up.

JohnKoaWood

OK, flame on, but I personally believe it is easier to get to the clutch by removing the engine...

Just my 2C...

especially if you are doing a complete drain / reservice of the engine... makes it a no brainer to reseal the engine at the same time... and the reference sensors come out WITH the engine, adjusting them is a breeze etc..etc..etc.. I can go on and on...

Next time I do a clutch, it is engine out to do it... rest of drivetrain can also come out, but if just for clutch, engine is coming out!

On an N/A, I would not be suprised if it takes less time to do by pulling the engine, rather than pulling apart everything behind the engine...

When the engine goes back in my turbo, I am also installing a stand alone, and have no need for the speed and refference sensors, so notching for me is irrelevant, but the notch is the shiznit....

PeteL

My one lesson learned from the second clutch job is to back off the pressure plate bolts all around then start removing them. Don't just remove them as you go. The last one will be holding all of the pressure.