333pg333

Well Sid that setup you were doing (or have done?) with the Holsett twin scroll and butterfly valve crossover should do it. The VVT should be coming down in price too. Not sure if they're in a size large enough yet?

Eastep

the flow of the 12V is the worst of all VRs, the 24v was a natural progression bec the 12 was getting long in the tooth. the 12v has better low end torque and that more muscle car sound, but falls flat on its face after 5-6 k where as the 24 has alot better flow, making more power mid-high rpm and has a certain wail to it. the 24 is IIRCC more problematic then the 12v. If your really looking for all out track star, swap an r32 engine in there. but if it were me id definitely use the 12v, no questions

Vonov

I'm told that it can be reduced in height somewhat.
I *may* have to utilize a crossmember/sway bar spacer setup similar to the one Renegade uses; if necessary, I will install a modified hood (similar to a GM-style Cowl Induction-type hood); hopefully, that wont be necessary, but if so, so be it. I think the engine will sit back far enough that it can be dropped slightly behind the crossmember, but whatever I do, I will NOT sacrifice reliability, (the point of this exercise) and especially not safety, for cosmetic reasons.

Eastep

its true on most cars. on my mk2 gti 8v the cam cover was 3in high and the cam only stuck up .5in so figure 1.5-2in of cam cover could have been shaved down with no clearance or safety issues at all

Vonov

Just measured again...I *think* it will clear...from the bottom of the block, to the top of the unmodified valve cover is 22 inches; from the top of the crossmember (without adapters) to the top of the lip in front of the battery tray is a shade over 21 inches; the bottom of the hood rises from the stiffening bulkhead, which mates to the weatherseal at that point, another two inches...I'm itching to get enough time to try it physically...grrrrr...lol...too much work interfering with my life.
Most all the engine will be either forward of that lip, or behind the crossmember (thank goodness it's a short engine).

Steven S

So how about clearance down low? How's oilpan clearance once the drives line up? I haven't seen any drysumps on the market for the VR. Hope they're not necessary.

WRC_413X

worst case scenario

http://www.allporscheracing.com/Auto_s/WB1.jpg
http://i3.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/08/f2/7a1a_1.JPG

V2Rocket

remember how far the distributor and stuff stick above the fender line yet still clear the hood. the hood curves up considerably in the middle.

Vonov

I don't believe there will be any probs down low...the oil pan is almost exactly the same length as the distance from the front of the bellhousing to the rear of the crossmember, and the current plan is to modify the oil pan very slightly at the front of the pan for clearance. IIRC, the crankshaft pulley is fairly high in relation to the pan. More measuring...tomorrow, I'm going to try to break loose some time to get that block under the car, dammit...

EDIT: The bottom edge of the crankshaft pulley is almost flush with the top of the oil pan. What is likely to interfere is the power steering pump pulley, but that is easily solved by notching the upper surface of the crossmember, and reinforcing it across the bottom using the shop TIG welder to add more support, or rotating the engine off vertical toward the passenger side of the car. I want this engine as vertical as possible, however.

WRC_413X

be careful though of the original design reguarding oil flow and the like
cant wait for some more progress!

nickg

that would in essence screw the pcv syatem in that engine....fyi

Vonov

Thanks for the heads up, nick. I'm given to understand the PCV system *can* be modified to reduce the profile of the valve cover, but after careful examination of the valve cover and head, I'm convinced that would yield negligible benefit, perhaps a half inch of clearance, so that will be a solution of last resort. Since you've seen this done before, I'd gladly welcome any suggestions you have to offer (if you feel you wouldn't be aiding and abetting, violating your principles or sacred oath or anything, lol). In all seriousness, you seem to be convinced this project will be ruining a perfectly good 944; in actuality, this car was on its way to the junkyard before I got it, so even if I didn't finish this, it wasn't like I was destroying a running 944. I do plan on completing this project, but i also want it done right, and since you seem to have a source I'm unaware of, your assistance might keep me from making an unnecessary mistake.
How about it, m8?

Vonov

First test fitting of the VR6 block, head, and valve cover...this one is simply to get an idea of how tall the block will be relative to the TT and hood. The one from the underside of the hood (taken thru the headlight opening) is with the hood fully closed...the block has about another inch and a half to move rearward, which means there will be more vertical room in relation to the hood, a good thing, because the TT must come up slightly. In any case, at this point, it appears a modified hood will not be necessary.

blown 944

Nice keep up the good work

Vonov

Thank you, Sid...BTW, is that a Chevy II/Nova in your sig? (Not exactly stock, either, I'll wager, if the pic is any indicator! Way cool.)