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924/931/944/951/968 Forum Porsche 924, 924S, 931, 944, 944S, 944S2, 951, and 968 discussion, how-to guides, and technical help. (1976-1995)
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:07 AM
  #211  
pontifex4
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Originally Posted by Vonov
Camber bolts??? OMG, please don't tell me I've got camber bolts to deal with---went thru a similar nightmare with my V8 Fiero...(yeah, I sort of like "orphan" cars, I owned a Corvair about ten years ago. Painted it in Steelers colors...metallic white on the front, faded back into a pearl yellow, and where the roofline came down in the back, I carried the line down, with the back of the car in black, with just a touch of violet pearl powder in the clearcoat. Prettiest car I ever painted, and it sounded a lot like a 911.)
Ha, regrettably, yes. And caster eccentrics at the rear of the control arm, though those are pretty easy to deal with. At least it's a pretty straightforward setup compared to a new BMW...

I've always wondered: how does one do a fade in automotive paint?
Old 08-12-2010, 01:37 PM
  #212  
WRC_413X
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Any updates? Have you started toying with clutch stuff yet?
Old 08-12-2010, 03:10 PM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by WRC_413X
Any updates? Have you started toying with clutch stuff yet?
Still waiting on shop space; I may have to go ahead and build my own. It would stretch the time out on this, which is going MUCH slower than I wanted already...but I would have my own space, and my own lift, and wouldn't have to worry about leaving tools/parts exposed to the elements, etc.
Old 08-12-2010, 03:14 PM
  #214  
Vonov
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Originally Posted by pontifex4

I've always wondered: how does one do a fade in automotive paint?
I find it easiest to spray with the lighter color towards the darker...doing it that way, the fade tends to be much more "blended", as the darker color tends to overpower a lighter color, making it harder to avoid a defined demarcation between the two colors. In other words, spray the dark color where you want it first, going somewhat further than the area you actually want in that color, and then use the the lighter base color to spray towards the darker area, then clearcoat all of it. Hope that makes sense; I found it harder to explain than to do, lol...
Old 08-13-2010, 11:56 AM
  #215  
WRC_413X
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Have u found any new info on clutch and pressure plate setup? Or begun test fitting combinations?

I know what you mean for shopspace ive lost mine, i have an apt now so its kinda tricky lol.

Im trying to see what would be rhe better route cut vw housing and homemade adapror plate setup like your doing, or 924 bellhousing with the 034motorsports adapter plate to matte up to the vr. That plate is expensive to just get n see if it will work, and then sourcing the housing. But if its set and good i dont care.
Theres a bunch of build threads and links to partial builds and discussion but no one has gone all the way through with it in either direction, or audi 5cl i believe either. Everyone starts gets to the same point and falls of the face of the earth or sells/abandons it lol.

Keep on keepin on!
Old 08-13-2010, 01:30 PM
  #216  
xschop
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Look at any dodge or Jeep clutch with 1" x 23 spline input. My $40 Dodge truck clutch is easily holding the 315 HP from the V8.
Old 08-14-2010, 03:06 PM
  #217  
WRC_413X
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All the dodge and jeep ones i found were 10 spline and 9+ dia but i did some hunting on boards and sites and came up with the sachs SD1041HD its actually a bronco II heavy duty disc, but to all the same size spec and its like $50 and turns out people use this it seams to hold up good. Im going to explore that route
Old 08-27-2010, 03:15 PM
  #218  
WRC_413X
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Any progress recently?
Old 08-28-2010, 02:37 PM
  #219  
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mayday, mayday...........
Old 09-13-2010, 12:29 AM
  #220  
Vonov
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I recently bought a tool I only recently became aware existed (shows how little I know) which I wish I'd had years ago. Only today it saved me some serious headache and maybe worse when the engine block I've been using to conduct fitment testing tried to fall off the motorcycle lift I'd been using to support it. Fortunately, I already had the bridge in place and the weight of the engine partially supported on the bridge when it happened. I was under the car at the time; it could've really been ugly, but the bridge limited the movement to a few inches, and made recovery MUCH easier (not to mention saving my **** from serious injury). 50 bucks is cheap insurance, and it makes quite a few things easier, and especially if you're working under less than optimal conditions, safer (i.e., not a completely level surface).
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:32 AM
  #221  
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what???!??!!!!????!! CRAZY!!! i want one!!
Old 09-13-2010, 12:44 AM
  #222  
Vonov
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The engine is very close to what its final position will be...and since I refuse to change the suspension geometry of the car without knowing exactly what I'm doing, I've decided extra vertical height is preferable to lowering the crossmember with spacers...here is a somewhat fuzzy shot showing how little the engine block protrudes beneath the lower frame rails...now to bolt up the crossmember and steering gear, and see just how much room I have to play with...one of the good things about the VR is that the crank "draft" is very shallow; you could almost bolt a piece of flat steel to the bottom of the block.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:53 AM
  #223  
Vonov
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Originally Posted by lovemyp-car
what???!??!!!!????!! CRAZY!!! i want one!!
They're about fifty bucks at Harbor Freight...
Old 09-13-2010, 09:23 AM
  #224  
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I will be getting one of tools at HF when I do my oil pan gasket. Looks like a good piece of gear.
Old 09-22-2010, 05:35 PM
  #225  
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Progress?

Side note getting my vr setup next week and may or may not be going in my vw in the mean time. But also might be getting a spare block and case for mock up


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