Oil pressure relief valve O-ring replacement
02-05-2008, 09:55 AM
#1
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Oil pressure relief valve O-ring replacement
When I replace the o-rings on the OPRV, do I need the alignment tool when I re-install the OPRV?
Thanks!
Thanks!
02-05-2008, 10:37 AM
#2
What year is your car? Is it the one piece OPRV or 3 Piece OPRV? If you have the one piece, then you can use the OPRV itself to align the housing. If you have the 3 piece then you're gonna need the tool.
-Darwin
-Darwin
02-05-2008, 12:07 PM
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I have a 87 944S, i think it's the 1 piece. also i'm not removing the oil cooler housing. i'm just unbolting the OPRV, and replacing the o-rings and the cruch washer. starting to get a leak by the bolt head.
02-05-2008, 12:29 PM
#4
If you aren't unbolting the housing then you don't need to re-align anything. Just thread it back in. With the new o-ring you will get a little resistance when it is about to fully seat.
-Darwin
-Darwin
09-14-2021, 08:52 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Old thread revival time!
It looks to me like my OPRV is leaking, also likely due to old/original washers and seals. Not having messed with the engine too much in my wrenching, I just want to verify that it's the big hex head thing on the passenger side of the engine, correct? PET is not always the most clear for me to interpret the diagrams, especially once everything is all bolted up from various systems.
For removal and refurbishing, can this all be done without removing other parts from the car, or are there bits that will need to be removed so that I can do this work? I mean, apart from the belly pans.
Thanks
It looks to me like my OPRV is leaking, also likely due to old/original washers and seals. Not having messed with the engine too much in my wrenching, I just want to verify that it's the big hex head thing on the passenger side of the engine, correct? PET is not always the most clear for me to interpret the diagrams, especially once everything is all bolted up from various systems.
For removal and refurbishing, can this all be done without removing other parts from the car, or are there bits that will need to be removed so that I can do this work? I mean, apart from the belly pans.
Thanks
09-14-2021, 03:29 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Zirc,
I assume you are referring to the car in your profile? Which means you have a 1 piece OPRV.
My advice would be not to remove your OPRV, i.e. the large hex head on the side of your oil cooler. The school of hard knocks has taught me that sometimes the 1 piece valve becomes a 2 piece valve when you try and remove it from the cooler. A bad day! Although called a 1 piece valve, it has multiple parts and I find there is a weak link internally where two halves of the valve are held together by friction on an o-ring. Once it comes apart, you may have a devil of a time getting it back together. Porsche originally recommended replacement when this happened, in the original tech bulletins, although I think most of us work to put back together what we have. Anyway, if you can avoid removing it, all that pain can be avoided.
Clean everything up, maybe add some UV dye to your oil, and confirm the leak is coming from the area under the hex head. If it is indeed leaking from there, gentle application of additional torque may solve your problem. If that doesn't work, and it pains me greatly to suggest this, I would clean everything perfectly and try sealing the leak area with silicone. I personally hate to see engines where that has been done but in this case, maybe a neccesary evil.
Here is a link to my extensive article on this and related 944 oiling issues. I am not an expert, just a motivated enthusiast:
https://newhillgarage.com/2013/06/25...tem-explained/
I assume you are referring to the car in your profile? Which means you have a 1 piece OPRV.
My advice would be not to remove your OPRV, i.e. the large hex head on the side of your oil cooler. The school of hard knocks has taught me that sometimes the 1 piece valve becomes a 2 piece valve when you try and remove it from the cooler. A bad day! Although called a 1 piece valve, it has multiple parts and I find there is a weak link internally where two halves of the valve are held together by friction on an o-ring. Once it comes apart, you may have a devil of a time getting it back together. Porsche originally recommended replacement when this happened, in the original tech bulletins, although I think most of us work to put back together what we have. Anyway, if you can avoid removing it, all that pain can be avoided.
Clean everything up, maybe add some UV dye to your oil, and confirm the leak is coming from the area under the hex head. If it is indeed leaking from there, gentle application of additional torque may solve your problem. If that doesn't work, and it pains me greatly to suggest this, I would clean everything perfectly and try sealing the leak area with silicone. I personally hate to see engines where that has been done but in this case, maybe a neccesary evil.
Here is a link to my extensive article on this and related 944 oiling issues. I am not an expert, just a motivated enthusiast:
https://newhillgarage.com/2013/06/25...tem-explained/
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09-14-2021, 05:05 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thanks Harvey, I value your advice and experience on this. I've been really puzzling over where a small leak is coming from and it's only recently that I began to suspect the OPRV.
I like the idea of trying to just torque things first, after cleaning up. One of the ideas that I've read about, but never tried, is dusting the area with a bit of talcum powder to track down leaks. Any experience with that, or downsides that I might not be seeing or aware of?
Thanks
I like the idea of trying to just torque things first, after cleaning up. One of the ideas that I've read about, but never tried, is dusting the area with a bit of talcum powder to track down leaks. Any experience with that, or downsides that I might not be seeing or aware of?
Thanks
09-14-2021, 08:28 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I haven't heard of that but it could work. The dye and the UV light method is pretty standard with repair shops. I think you can get a kit from Amazon, etc. for not much money.
Oil leaks are annoying. Even my nicely rebuilt engine had a small leak.
Oil leaks are annoying. Even my nicely rebuilt engine had a small leak.
09-15-2021, 07:58 PM
#10
Drifting
Old thread revival time!
It looks to me like my OPRV is leaking, also likely due to old/original washers and seals. Not having messed with the engine too much in my wrenching, I just want to verify that it's the big hex head thing on the passenger side of the engine, correct? PET is not always the most clear for me to interpret the diagrams, especially once everything is all bolted up from various systems.
For removal and refurbishing, can this all be done without removing other parts from the car, or are there bits that will need to be removed so that I can do this work? I mean, apart from the belly pans.
Thanks
It looks to me like my OPRV is leaking, also likely due to old/original washers and seals. Not having messed with the engine too much in my wrenching, I just want to verify that it's the big hex head thing on the passenger side of the engine, correct? PET is not always the most clear for me to interpret the diagrams, especially once everything is all bolted up from various systems.
For removal and refurbishing, can this all be done without removing other parts from the car, or are there bits that will need to be removed so that I can do this work? I mean, apart from the belly pans.
Thanks
If there is suspected oil leak at the OPRV, then remove the heat shield, take lacquer thinner and clean the oil cooler housing and OPRV. The heat shield is a b***h to put back.
Harvey makes a good point if the OPRV is the 3-piece or single piece. Lindsey Racing has the replacement single piece for the 3-piece OPRV. In my case the 3-piece failed and the plunger was stuck. The oil cooler cover was not aligned with an alignment tool, so I had to remove the oil cooler to extract the piston.
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