My saga begins: I'm getting my neighbor's 944 Turbo
#1
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For four years, I've been watching two 944's in my neighbor's driveway gather moss. They haven't moved. He drives a Mercedes convertible now, and has told me he was going to restore them one day. But now he has health problems and is getting a motorcycle. So I asked him to give me the Turbo and I'd get it running to turn it into a track car. He will be able to drive it any time he wants. He said OK.
So, I know nothing about 944's, but I want a track car that is similar to my S2000. I've autocrossed it quite a bit and taken it to the track once, but I want a safer car before I head back to the track again. Rather than roll-bar, seats, and harnesses in the S, which will make it a poor daily driver, I'll put it into this 944 Turbo, which should perform similarly (both front engine four's with similar horsepower, rear drive, good balance, etc.).
So, now all I have to do is take a car that was last inspected in 1997 and get it running!
My first step is to get it out of his driveway (gravel) and in to mine (paved). I have a T100 truck and former climbing rope. I'm looking for advice on where (in the back) to attach the tow rope. Obviously, the brake rotors and pads are going to be pretty well attached at this point, so it may take a lot of force to get the thing rolling. Good/Bad idea to spray solvent (e.g. PB Blaster) on the rotors to help break things loose? Obviously, I don't intend to drive the car for a while, and that will include a brake job, so I'm not worried about whether a solvent will cause temporary loss of performance. Rather, I'm worried about any permanent damage it might cause.
Any thoughts and how to go about moving this vehicle 100 yards that hasn't moved in about 10 years?
Next question: I'm looking for a shop manual. I assume that there are several choices. What's my best option?
Finally, any comments on the merits of this project? I'm assuming there are birds in the muffler, mice in the heater, water in the gas tank, clogged injectors, corroded wiring connectors, etc. But, my basic idea here is to drain the replace the engine oil and filter, charge up/replace the battery, and try to get the engine running. Anything else I should do before then, to prevent damage? After the engine, I'll replace the fluid in the transaxle (that's correct right-- my S has a seperate transmission and differential), get the brakes up to snuff, replace the tires and start driving. Sounds so easy!
Thanks for any and all advice!!!
So, I know nothing about 944's, but I want a track car that is similar to my S2000. I've autocrossed it quite a bit and taken it to the track once, but I want a safer car before I head back to the track again. Rather than roll-bar, seats, and harnesses in the S, which will make it a poor daily driver, I'll put it into this 944 Turbo, which should perform similarly (both front engine four's with similar horsepower, rear drive, good balance, etc.).
So, now all I have to do is take a car that was last inspected in 1997 and get it running!
My first step is to get it out of his driveway (gravel) and in to mine (paved). I have a T100 truck and former climbing rope. I'm looking for advice on where (in the back) to attach the tow rope. Obviously, the brake rotors and pads are going to be pretty well attached at this point, so it may take a lot of force to get the thing rolling. Good/Bad idea to spray solvent (e.g. PB Blaster) on the rotors to help break things loose? Obviously, I don't intend to drive the car for a while, and that will include a brake job, so I'm not worried about whether a solvent will cause temporary loss of performance. Rather, I'm worried about any permanent damage it might cause.
Any thoughts and how to go about moving this vehicle 100 yards that hasn't moved in about 10 years?
Next question: I'm looking for a shop manual. I assume that there are several choices. What's my best option?
Finally, any comments on the merits of this project? I'm assuming there are birds in the muffler, mice in the heater, water in the gas tank, clogged injectors, corroded wiring connectors, etc. But, my basic idea here is to drain the replace the engine oil and filter, charge up/replace the battery, and try to get the engine running. Anything else I should do before then, to prevent damage? After the engine, I'll replace the fluid in the transaxle (that's correct right-- my S has a seperate transmission and differential), get the brakes up to snuff, replace the tires and start driving. Sounds so easy!
Thanks for any and all advice!!!
Last edited by teamking; 10-05-2008 at 09:08 PM. Reason: removed reference to selling in title
#2
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First off, do not start the car unless you change the timing belt. If the car hasnt moved in ten years its atleast 7 years over due for the belt to be changed. A snapped timing belt will effectively destroy the valves. And also be about a $1500 repair bill right off the bat.
Factory shop manuals are floating around, but not something one should talk about here. Hardcopies are available on eBay. ClarksGarage is one of the best sources for info.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Regarding towing the car.. there is a provision for a screw in tow hook in the center of the front bumper. Thats the nice thing about the Turbos... the n/a cars dont have that (no provision in body work).
Factory shop manuals are floating around, but not something one should talk about here. Hardcopies are available on eBay. ClarksGarage is one of the best sources for info.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Regarding towing the car.. there is a provision for a screw in tow hook in the center of the front bumper. Thats the nice thing about the Turbos... the n/a cars dont have that (no provision in body work).
#3
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It would be easier to open your wallet and light the contents on fire.
Sounds like a scary project, before you get too far you might have someone that knows these cars give it a good shake. You might be way better off ($$$) buying one that already runs than to restore a car that might need EVERYTHING.
I might be way off base here, it depends on your climate and other varibles, but at the least your looking at a lot of work and $$ to make it track worthy.
Sounds like a scary project, before you get too far you might have someone that knows these cars give it a good shake. You might be way better off ($$$) buying one that already runs than to restore a car that might need EVERYTHING.
I might be way off base here, it depends on your climate and other varibles, but at the least your looking at a lot of work and $$ to make it track worthy.
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First off, welcome to rennlist!
Second of all, it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what all you need to look over and go through in order to get this car running. Just curious, how many miles are on it? I second the clarks-garage notion.. Its extremely helpful. Also, there are tons of threads on here about most any technical project one could take on with these cars, so make ample use of the "search" button.
Good luck with the resto! Shouldn't be too bad if you do it right.
Second of all, it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what all you need to look over and go through in order to get this car running. Just curious, how many miles are on it? I second the clarks-garage notion.. Its extremely helpful. Also, there are tons of threads on here about most any technical project one could take on with these cars, so make ample use of the "search" button.
Good luck with the resto! Shouldn't be too bad if you do it right.
#5
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I don't mean to scare you away from this project, sounds like fun. Be go into it with open eyes.
A track prepared 951 is a BLAST to drive, you'll love the finished project.
List some history of the car and your location.
Maybe one of the guys here is local to you and could lend a hand.
A track prepared 951 is a BLAST to drive, you'll love the finished project.
List some history of the car and your location.
Maybe one of the guys here is local to you and could lend a hand.
#6
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Congratulations, sure sounds like an interesting project! You have already mad e a very good decision by coming here and asking for help before getting started. Rennlist is the best source for information about your new car. You may also want to mention where your located. With all the people on this board there is probably somebody nearby that can help you out.
I know you said that the car is in a gravel drive. But if you can jack it up, you may want to and try to free the wheels before you attempt to pull it with your truck. Thats my $0.02. And since your probably going to replace the pads anyway, I wouldn't worry about using PB blaster, its certainly not going to hurt your rotors.
I assume he is turning the title over to you then? I would make sure you have that straightened out before spending any of your own $$$.
I know you said that the car is in a gravel drive. But if you can jack it up, you may want to and try to free the wheels before you attempt to pull it with your truck. Thats my $0.02. And since your probably going to replace the pads anyway, I wouldn't worry about using PB blaster, its certainly not going to hurt your rotors.
I assume he is turning the title over to you then? I would make sure you have that straightened out before spending any of your own $$$.
#7
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
First off, do not start the car unless you change the timing belt. If the car hasnt moved in ten years its atleast 7 years over due for the belt to be changed. A snapped timing belt will effectively destroy the valves. And also be about a $1500 repair bill right off the bat.
Factory shop manuals are floating around, but not something one should talk about here. Hardcopies are available on eBay. ClarksGarage is one of the best sources for info.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Regarding towing the car.. there is a provision for a screw in tow hook in the center of the front bumper. Thats the nice thing about the Turbos... the n/a cars dont have that (no provision in body work).
Factory shop manuals are floating around, but not something one should talk about here. Hardcopies are available on eBay. ClarksGarage is one of the best sources for info.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Regarding towing the car.. there is a provision for a screw in tow hook in the center of the front bumper. Thats the nice thing about the Turbos... the n/a cars dont have that (no provision in body work).
As far as the towing, I have access only from the rear. I'd sure prefer not to have to work on it in his gravel driveway, so I'd like to try to break things loose by towing it from behind. I'll need some solid points to pull from, though. Let me know if you think it just can't be done.
To answer the other questions, I'm located in Charlottesville, Virginia. Winters are cold, summers are hot, and it stays pretty humid in the spring and summer. Can't imagine that things could be too much worse for leaving a car outside, unless you were right next to the ocean with salt water spray blowing around.
The car is an 87 Turbo (EDIT 1/23/07: actually, it is a 1986), gold with Red interior. I'll follow up with the mileage on a subsequent post.
I do plan on getting the ownership issues straightened out before I spend any $$$. Just opened up my wallet and found only $35 of flammable material. Were that it were going to be that easy.
So, it sounds like the plan is...
1. Get it into my driveway.
2. Change the timing belt.
3. Change the engine oil/filter.
4. Charge/replace the battery.
5. Drain the gas tank.
6. Add gas with Fuel Injector cleaner.
7. Figure out why it won't start.
Sound reasonable?
Last edited by teamking; 01-23-2007 at 09:38 AM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by teamking
7. Figure out why it won't start.
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Is it not possible to push the car? I know the rotors are probably frozen solid, but a tap forward with your truck to dislodge everything might give you what you need to get it moving.
There is also a way to place a tow hook on the rear of these cars. You have to buy it, but it may be inexpensive. I don't know much about it but perhaps someone can chime in or you can do a search.
Good luck; it sounds like fun! If you've never boosted in one of these things you are in for a treat
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Welcome to the list
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#9
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youll have to hook up to the rear sway bar unless you buy some of the bolt on tow points from say www.paragon-products.com - make sure you do a timing belt before you start it. May as well do the front seals as well. WElcome to rennlist!
#10
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Don't forget changing ALL the hoses, other belts, tires, anything rubber. It does sound like a fun project but I'd expect to spend a few thousand dollars before turning the key. There is so much to replace if the car has been sitting for 10 years.
You need to do a ton of reading here and on Clark's Garage and make a comprehensive list of things that must be done to get the car running properly. Then you'll have the expense of getting it track ready.
Best of luck.
You need to do a ton of reading here and on Clark's Garage and make a comprehensive list of things that must be done to get the car running properly. Then you'll have the expense of getting it track ready.
Best of luck.
#11
Drifting
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Originally Posted by MichelleJD
There is also a way to place a tow hook on the rear of these cars. You have to buy it, but it may be inexpensive.
http://www.klaindustries.net/reartow/reartow.htm
#12
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this hook seems more useful then KLA and cheaper. I actually just picked up a pair as well.
http://mall.rennlist.com/scripts/fea...uery=retrieval
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#14
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Originally Posted by Bill Lucas
Don't forget changing ALL the hoses, other belts, tires, anything rubber. It does sound like a fun project but I'd expect to spend a few thousand dollars before turning the key. There is so much to replace if the car has been sitting for 10 years.
You need to do a ton of reading here and on Clark's Garage and make a comprehensive list of things that must be done to get the car running properly. Then you'll have the expense of getting it track ready.
Best of luck.
You need to do a ton of reading here and on Clark's Garage and make a comprehensive list of things that must be done to get the car running properly. Then you'll have the expense of getting it track ready.
Best of luck.
Thanks for the input. But, I'd like to split hairs a little bit. I'd like to get to 'turning the key' as quickly (read: inexpensively) as possible. But that doesn't mean that once I turn the key, I'm ready to hit the road. My rationale is this: I'm thinking that the engine is the biggest question mark at this point. I don't want to get $3000 into this only to find out that that the engine is worthless and needs to be rebuilt completely or replaced.
On the other hand, I don't want to jump into this thing and try to get it running only to cause damage that could have been avoided.
Does my thinking make any sense?
For instance, I know I'll need tires before I hit the road, but not before I turn the key. So, what do you think I need to do before I turn the key?
And, if you think I'm being naive here, please let me know. I mean, if this is going to be a $7000 project just to get the thing road-worthy (before I start making it track-worthy), then I'm better off knowing that now. So, I'd like to know what major items are going to need to be repaired/replaced as early on in the process as I can.