teamking

I'm starting to get warmer... I discovered some legible markings on the side of the banjo fitting: AALFLEX. This led me to http://www.aalflex.de/pdf/1_79.pdf. I think I'm after the part RN-6 or B-8. Can anyone here read German enough to help me out?

Mighty Shilling

is that the banjo bolt on the side of the intercooler pipe? it runs to the cycling valve, and eventually to the wastegate.

black944 turbo

Dude, get some snips, cut the metal flashing off of it and reuse the banjo bolt and other connectors. You don't need to buy an OE one. That is another vacume line to the cycling valve, don't worry about it. Cut the metal flashing off the edge and then get a hose clamp.

teamking

Yeah, good plan. I'll attack it tonight with snips and/or dremel.

teamking

Well, I've been making some progress:

I was able to get the vacuum system fittings off with the dremel. I've ordered some vacuum lines (among other things) from pelican, and will use band clamps to attach the fittings to the lines.

The timing and balance belts are on and tensioned, and the front engine cover is back on.

Fuel line was re-spliced. (I'm pulling out my flame suit)

Epoxied the air box.

Installed new starter.

Replaced the spark plugs and oil filter (I need to go pick up some oil).

Finally, I replaced the coolant. When I finished, I discovered that I have coolant dripping from the flywheel. It had been low before I started working on the car, so now I'm not surprised to see that there is a leak. Couldn't locate the leak though. It's running down the outside of the flywheel on the driver's side, from as far up as I can see. Can't tell where it's starting. Any thoughts? Heater Control Valve, perhaps?

black944 turbo

Sounds like a heater valve to me.

951Tom

First guess would be heater control valve or it's hoses.

Tom
'87 951

teamking

Today I took off the fuel rail and intake manifold. Sure enough, the heater control valve is leaking right into the tdc window in the flywheel housing. Also, I took a look at some more of the vaccum lines underneath the intake manifold. Discovered that one of the lines to the cycling valve was deteriorated. On the other line headed forward from the cycling valve, the nipple on the cycling valve had snapped off. I think I can fix this with some more epoxy. Running tally is $569 and 31.5 hours.

teamking

I'm thinking of having the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested, while they're off of the car. Good idea? Any recommendations on where to have it done (preferrably on the east coast to save on shipping time/cost)?

Thanks!

alordofchaos

Witchhunter. dunno where they're located, quick search will turn that up.

seems to be the most recommended injector cleaner on rennlist.

Airflite40

www.witchhunter.com

they are in washington and top notch! fast

black944 turbo

RC is also very good, that is who did mine

teamking

Well, I decided to get the rest of the fuel out of the tank while the intake is all apart-- my hope was to just run the fuel pump and catch the old fuel into a container at the fuel line/fuel rail junction. So, I disconnected the starter leads (and isolated them electrically), removed the spark plug wires, and turned the key, but got no fuel.

So instead, I removed the fuel pump cover, and drained the fuel directly from the tank (about 1 gallon had been left in). At the same time, I checked for voltage at the fuel pump while my wife turned the key and pressed the clutch, and got nothing (I shouldn't say nothing, it changed from 0.0 to 0.3mV).

Should I be concerned? I'm thinking with everything disconnected in the intake, the DME is probably unhappy and therefore not closing the fuel pump circuit. Any thoughts on that?

Could an alarm system be preventing the fuel pump from operating? I looked for a cigarette-sized box in the passenger footwell, and didn't find anything. I had previously removed a horn from near the battery, so I suppose it is possible that the alarm is going off but can't be heard, and also preventing DME from allowing the car to start.

This is a problem with trying to fix up a car that you've never driven (neither the particular car, nor any similar car) without a decent shop manual. Also, it looks like there has been quite a bit of aftermarket wiring that has gone into the stereo system and amplifiers.

SpecialtyConcreteCoatings

Mine horn is removed too. When the alarm goes off you can hear a ticking sound coming from the relay box. I can hear it in the cabin too. And the car will not start.

teamking

OK, avid readers, let's recap where we are:

I have:
Changed the timing belt
And balance belt
And starter
And battery
And spark plugs
And coolant
And heater control valve (leaking coolant)
And four corroded vacuum lines
And the cycle valve
And oil
And oil filter
And air filter
And repaired some rodent-chewed wiring
And repaired a fuel line splice
And drained the old gasoline and added new gas
And cleaned and balanced the fuel injectors

When I went to start it up, it turns over but will not fire. Inside, I get the following from the guage cluster:
Tachometer jumps slightly
Oil guage goes to top with red light on beneath it
Red light with '!' is on
Chime once per second
Battery guage reads 12.

Question 1: I was suspicious of the reference sensor because the connector deteriorated while I was replacing the heater control valve. Does the bouncing tach indicated that it must be OK? or is likely OK? Or doesn't mean anything?

Question 2: I have pulled out a horn from next to the battery (that had filled with water and leaves due to 10 years of neglect and the fact that it was mounted so that it acted like a cup). Now, I've come to learn that the factory alarm has an extra lock that sits behind the driver's door, which I do not have. Should I surmise that I have an after-market alarm system? There is quite a bit of aftermarket wiring in the car, but I had assumed it was related to the stereo. Would an aftermarket alarm typically cut fuel/spark, or just sound a horn.

Question 3: Any other easy checks before I start troubleshooting via the clarks-garage procedure?

Let me also say thanks to everyone who has responded to my (sometimes inane) posts. This has been quite a process to get to this point, and I now feel like I'm seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. As my 911-driving friend at work said, "It will all be worth it during those first few laps at VIR."