My saga begins: I'm getting my neighbor's 944 Turbo
08-11-2007, 04:45 PM
#136
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Originally Posted by teamking
What will be my symptoms if the clutch is indeed 'Used up': slipping under power?
Or when you get it freed, try starting off in 3rd. If it won't stall the car, it's *done.*
08-11-2007, 06:39 PM
#137
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It will incredibly stiff to and will chatter badly, especially on down shifts. These were the symptoms when my clutch was going. I would not have the wheels up in the air. You are tempting damage. I would go with your original plan of driving it.
08-11-2007, 07:53 PM
#138
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Good news! I managed to break the clutch loose and took the car for a spin up the block!
Woohoo!
The clutch does shudder quite a bit as it engages. I'm hopeful (perhaps naively) that this is because it was frozen in one position and will improve.
So I started making a list of things that need to be done:
For State Inspection:
Tires
Windshield wipers aren't working
Rearview mirror (reattach with epoxy?)
Driver's mirror (glass fell off and broke)
Brake wear indicator wiring (was chewed by a rodent)
High priority:
Fix coolant leak
Fix torn c-v boot
Change transmission fluid
Oil Pressure sender
Take to professional for PPI
Medium priority:
hook up oxygen sensor (edited-- I had forgotten this)
tail pipe
passenger's window doesn't roll down
replace accessory belts
alignment
Low priority:
A/C
Power steering
rear hatch dampers
fix front quarter panel/bumper
paint
Wow! I think I could actually be driving this thing on a regular basis before too long!
Woohoo!
The clutch does shudder quite a bit as it engages. I'm hopeful (perhaps naively) that this is because it was frozen in one position and will improve.
So I started making a list of things that need to be done:
For State Inspection:
Tires
Windshield wipers aren't working
Rearview mirror (reattach with epoxy?)
Driver's mirror (glass fell off and broke)
Brake wear indicator wiring (was chewed by a rodent)
High priority:
Fix coolant leak
Fix torn c-v boot
Change transmission fluid
Oil Pressure sender
Take to professional for PPI
Medium priority:
hook up oxygen sensor (edited-- I had forgotten this)
tail pipe
passenger's window doesn't roll down
replace accessory belts
alignment
Low priority:
A/C
Power steering
rear hatch dampers
fix front quarter panel/bumper
paint
Wow! I think I could actually be driving this thing on a regular basis before too long!
Last edited by teamking; 08-11-2007 at 08:17 PM.
08-11-2007, 08:18 PM
#140
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Originally Posted by cleverbastid
On a semi-related subject, do you know if they make sure the rear wiper works in the inspection or does it not matter?
08-11-2007, 09:10 PM
#142
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Good on ya! Fun stuff, hunh? The clutch might calm down some. Did you do it by your e-brake method you mentioned or rolling clutch drop?
Do you have to pay this guy for the car now that it runs? Why the PPI? Is it to see what stuff you perhaps are not?
Do you have to pay this guy for the car now that it runs? Why the PPI? Is it to see what stuff you perhaps are not?
08-11-2007, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Sheppard
Good on ya! Fun stuff, hunh? The clutch might calm down some. Did you do it by your e-brake method you mentioned or rolling clutch drop?
Do you have to pay this guy for the car now that it runs? Why the PPI? Is it to see what stuff you perhaps are not?
Do you have to pay this guy for the car now that it runs? Why the PPI? Is it to see what stuff you perhaps are not?
Finally, I put the car down on the ground and started the car with the clutch pressed and the car in first gear. The starter moved the car about 10 feet before the clutch broke free.
I've done a 20 MPH stop on the brakes, and they feel pretty balanced, just not a whole lot of stopping power. The steel is just starting to show through the rust on rotors, so I'm thinking that they will improve after the rust is ground away. Obviously, I'm going to take things slow until I get better braking results.
No payment back to the owner's son, though I did promise to let him drive it once it is sorted out.
As for the PPI-- exactly: I just want another set of eyes (perhaps better than mine) on it.
08-13-2007, 11:00 PM
#148
Three Wheelin'
A couple tips, you might want to use a Motive pressure bleeder to flush the brake and clutch fluid. A lot of times if you attempt to flush old dirty fluid by pumping the master cyl. with long pedal strokes, you risk tearing the inner seals & ruining the m/c.
To find and fix coolant leaks & bleed out the air, I always get a coolant pressure tester thru Autozone's free tool rental program. You can also test the rad. cap with it. You'll find and fix your leaks easily with it.
To find and fix coolant leaks & bleed out the air, I always get a coolant pressure tester thru Autozone's free tool rental program. You can also test the rad. cap with it. You'll find and fix your leaks easily with it.
08-15-2007, 05:54 PM
#150
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I will third the power bleeder suggestion if you are trying to save the master cyl, slave, and clutch master. If you are going to try to save them, that is the trick.
However, all I will say is that usually, I would rather assume they need to be at least pulled apart and rebuilt at that age. I rebuilt the brake master on mine, and did the clutch master and slave since they both failed in short succession.
The last place I would pinch is in the brakes.
However, all I will say is that usually, I would rather assume they need to be at least pulled apart and rebuilt at that age. I rebuilt the brake master on mine, and did the clutch master and slave since they both failed in short succession.
The last place I would pinch is in the brakes.