Yabo

Andy... I have a set of rings i bought from pelican, still in packaging, never touched. I decided i'm not doing them right now.

If you were going to get them from them anyway or someone similar, ill sell them to you for 5 dollars off or something.... i need to get rid ofthem and need money for other rebuild parts

xsboost90

shortblock sounds like the answer. If you are getting it cheap enough get the same parts and put some rod bearings in the new motor- cant hurt. I went overboard and got a crank scraper and a baffle for mine-great idea if your tracking the car at all- and get some new rod nuts if you have them off pretty cheap.

Porsche-O-Phile

Dumb question, but do rings need to be tolerance-group specific or not?

Mongo

Where's Legoland at? Cmon he can't goto sleep yet!

Mongo

Update: No luck in the wrecking yards down here in the South Bay. I'm still looking for a motor. Legoland if you see this again man PM me that phone number of yours so we can make a deal.

Campeck

buy 951 engine...

M758

hey Pull the engine out of the car. Rent an engine hoist for a day to pull it out and buy and engine stand. Do all the work on the stand.

Once it comes out pull the head off and then hand crank the engine to see the bores. Take a look closely at the number 3 bore. You should see faint lines, but these are normal for all bores. If you see deep scratch you may be in trouble. Depends how deep and how far down the bore.

One thing you can to is to take some fine 2500+ sand paper and lightly sand the scuff to make it smooth. Don't cut away material, but just knock down the edges. That is a last resort as you can easily make it worse. I did this on the number 4 cylinder on my 944 race motor after a suff. That was in Jan 2003 and I am still running that motor making 135 rwhp with it. I was lucky in the that it was a light scuff close to the top and did not go all the way down.

You will need to pull the crank out to get to the main bearings. If the block is scuffed you may be able to get a engine from spun rod bearings. Assumingit just spun and did not blow up the engine's crank would be bad, but the block should still be good. Then you have replacements and it should be cheap. You could even sell off the crank & pistons to a 944 spec driver for spares.

Mighty Shilling

step 1 should = remove engine from car.

Mongo

small update you guys

I picked up Legoland's 86 motor. It's a short block. I am going to re-ring his motor and do the main and rod bearings on it. (I am still debating on main bearings since I hear these usually don't fail on these blocks). I am considering the oil pan baffle upgrade too for better oil pickup on the track. Oh! I haven't forgotten about a clutch either. That's next on the list!!!

Oh and on a side note, I've come to a conclusion on what to do with my block that is in my car....that baby is getting bored to 104mm and I will be using 89 944 pistons with a .480" lift camshaft. This will be my track motor I will be constructing for later.

M758

If you are re-ringing (which you may not need to do at all) then do the mains to.

Much better to do both. The only reason to just do rods is if you don't want to take engine out of the car. Once it come out do all that you can. It will be worht it in the end.

500

I absolutely agree with Joe. You will find it is minimal labour to go the extra bit to replace the mains (and they don't cost that much).

It sounds like you have a good plan.

Mongo

ok I've made the decision to get this block checked and honed. Since this entire block is made of alusil, I'm going to make sure the shop gets it done right and takes special precautions and procedures. I just want things done the right way with this motor........and yes main bearings will be done too.

ibkevin

Andy, I have a new Turbo Cup clutch kit that I won't be using. PM me if your interested.

Jfrahm

Turbo clutches don't fit NA's. I might be interested though.

Mongo

Hey guys I'd like to give you a small update.

I've been referred to Motor Works in National City, CA to have this block honed since it's Alusil. Good news is they are going to hone it, check the journals, bores and polish the crank up for around $250. (even regrind for $25 more)

I am dropping my engine block off on Saturday. Next week, I'll have a very VERY clean block that you can fry eggs on

However, to get down to business... I'm assuming that in the worse case scenario I will have to bore out to fix any out of round bores. In the event of this, I have opted for a 104mm bore. This will raise my displacement to 2.7L, the same as a 1989 motor.

I am now looking for a set of 1989 pistons. Regardless of whether or not I will use them in Legoland's block, I still NEED these pistons for the block coming out of my car in the event this replacement doesn't need them.