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Sweet!
Love the color!
And a big bonus for getting it done 'on the cheap'.
I'm planning to paint mine myself.... If I can grow a pair big enough to try it.
Also assuming I can make it run long enough to be worthwhile.
While I am waiting for the high school students to return from their three weeks of out-placement, I am doing multiple other sub-projects. I am gathering and preparing (non-damaged) f/r bumpers, front valance, sourced a set of S2/turbo diffusers, new mirror bases, ++ This will be painted by the students as well, when they return.
Got hold of a set of script door handles that are being cleaned, lubricated and re-keyed. Found what I believe must be the smallest individual part in a 944. The little springs inside the door lock cylinders Followed a tutorial from the edredas YouTube channel. Someone has exercised brute force on one of the door locks in the past, as the interior barrel of one of the handles had some serious deformations from the individual lock cylinder "pins".
And... I (finally) got the refurbished G50 gearbox for my '87 911 back from the specialist. New bearings all round, new gasket set, and shimmed to spec. The specialist had procrastinated this job for months. So I believe I got a nice-price on the labour due to the delays. Which was nice. The box is currently on its way back in. The car is going on the market as soon as possible. Not planning on replacing it any time soon.
Things are not standing still. But there is moderate progress right now. Last couple days I've been scrubbing, sanding and oiling the wooden deck here at home. I believe I've spent effectively 30 hours on it, as the 50m2 deck had not received enough attention the last couple years. And there is a lot of preparation for a large family gathering in a couple weeks (Norsk: Konfirmasjon), need some attention.
A few days back I cleaned and prepped the bumpers, rear diffuser, front light frames and mirrors. And delivered it all to the high school for paint. The students are back from out placement. So there is progress. Everything should be painted and ready within a couple weeks
Even If I am busy with other things, I still have some hours here and there. To tinker with some smaller stuff. So I've given some attention to the script handles. And I believe someone earlier in this thread asked for some details. And this is detailed
I had only one original key. So I sourced new key blanks from Partworks. And had them duplicated locally. The handles themselves were a bit scruffy, so I gave them a slight polish, using a hand pad set and compound from the local auto supply store (Biltema). I didn't want to polish too much, as I believe they are anodized black and then clearcoated. I don't want to repaint them. And I don't want them silver colored... The triggers had lost some of the original paint, so I sanded them back and gave them a couple coats of black.
I wanted to re-key my handles. And found that the barrels from the early handles did not fit in the script ones. I moved over the seven locking plates one-by-one into the late key barrels, but discovered some issues. It appears the little details or ridges holding the key straight in the barrel is a weak point. Of the 4 barrels I had, only one of them held the key decently straight. Both the barrels for the script handles were bad. One a bit worse than the other. See image below. This led to the locking plates not being properly retracted when the key is skewed in the barrel. This appears to have been an issue for some time, as one of the (removable) barrel holders from the script handles were properly worn inside. See image.
To avoid the locking plates "catching" when turned, with the key skewed, I filed down the locking plates somewhat, and rounded the edges on all the locking plates. On the one side I only kept 4 of the 7 plates, as it was possible to move the key quite a lot, inside the lock. And the farther towards the tip of the key, the greater the issue. You say… Won't this make the lock less safe, or less "locked"? Yes. Most likely. But it still locks OK, even if you apply a bit of force with a screwdriver in the keyhole. And if someone really wanted to get into the car, everyone knows you can get in with a large screwdriver and something to apply proper force, even if the locks were fresh from the factory.
Also one of the little return springs, for centering the key barrel in the handle was broken. To me it looks as if the German engineers wasn't German enough, when designing this part of the lock. I sourced a new spring from my old handles, and bent the ends a bit. And made a shim, to tighten things a bit. After some trial and error, I ended up with good functionality. And I believe a bit better longevity as well.
Assembled it all back together applying liberal amount of marine grease (from Biltema). The handles are going on the shelf, ready to be assembled in my freshly painted doors
. Nice and polished handles
. Triggers painted black
. Barrel from early handle on top. From the script handles below. Different lengths. And a gear detail for the central locking on the later barrel.
. Example of key not held straight in the locking barrel.
. See how the tip of tkey is waaay off center in the barrel. This was the worst one. So I kept only 4 of the 7 locking plates in this one.
. Filed down and rounded the edges on most of the locking plates.
. The non-retracted locking plates had worn major grooves inside the barrel holders.
. Liberal amounts of marine grease aaplied. To ensure smooth operation, and protection from moisture.
. Ready for assembly
After a 3 month summer hiatus I am back in the garage. And the announced goal is to be ready for the first Norwegian 944 Cup race in May 2024. Currently I have an empty shell…
To improve the timeline I have opted to outsource the engine preparations to the local expert. So all the bits and pieces I have gathered was handed over to him yesterday. The engine I acquired a couple years ago. But I have never ran it myself. But it it has pretty good head, block and internals. Here is a list of stuff that is happening and going into the engine.
Head/cam: Planing, valve guides, check valves & seats, valve springs from turbo on exhaust side, 09R cam.
Short-block: Check all bearings, sintered rods (.RARST), matching rod weights, check bores & pistons, new rings.
Oil sump: Pan from 87+, oil pan baffle, pickup/return from 87+, add welded brackets to pickup/return, oil temp sensor in sump plug.
Oil cooling: Turbo oil filter console, eksternal oil cooler (CSF #8119), temp sensor (somewhere) on the external AN12 lines.
Fuel: New AN-based fuel lines, refurbished injectors, considering getting a Lindsey Fuel rail.
Clutch: Everything new exept flywheel and pressure plate. Disc, all bearings, refurbished master/slave.
And everything you do when refreshing an engine: Water pump, gaskets/seals, rollers +++
I recently learned that a buddy that I raced in 944 Cup a couple years ago had set up a small, two evenings per week, side business. Restoring old VW and Porsche gearboxes. I reached out to him, and he could take on my standard open diff NA box. I don't expect big issues, it ran and shifted decently last I drove it. But it had a bad leak on the right side output shaft. But now the box is left with him. He'll open up, measure the syncros and review the bearings, and then we'll figure what to replace. And in a month or two I'll have a refreshed unit, ready to go back in the car.
Received a small video snipet from the engine expert. And the verdict is that this is a very nice example. Among the smoothest un-toched cylinder bores he has seen. And the head had not been run since ut was planned. Lowering the cost for me. Niiice! Very satisfactory.
Lot's of elbow grease. And then delivered the parts to a local business doing the yellow chromate plating.
Some parts were sand blasted. Some where just cleaned thoroughly. Others were prepared with a steel brush. The plating business runs the parts through various baths, including an acid that eats away surface rust. Before the new layer of yellow chromate is added.
I always planned on rebuilding the drive shafts. So while I was at it, I sourced a set of 25 spline Turbo/S2 axle shafts. Thus I could use the respective beefier CV-joint with the larger bearing *****. From what I have read, and been told, these handle track time better than the NA versions. New GKN CV's. Now on the parts shelf. Ready for final assembly.
Currently working on trimming and adjusting the dashboard. Got hold of a cracked dash (for free), to avoid destroying my non-cracked and spotless original dash. Cutting the ends to fit between the cage, removing the glovebox and trimming the knee bolsters. End-pieces is up next. And I am considering flocking or re-upholstery with vinyl. New mounting points to the body is needed as well. Work in progress. New dash currently sits at 5kg. Old dash without glovebox door is 8kg.
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04-24-2023, 06:28 PM
Followed a tutorial from the edredas YouTube channel. Someone has exercised brute force on one of the door locks in the past, as the interior barrel of one of the handles had some serious deformations from the individual lock cylinder "pins".
