absolutely, that is why i went the relay route .. from 8 amps running through the switch before the fuse blows ( which it never does as the switch will melt way before that ) .. to 150ma was an easy descision for me . especially for only about 25.00 if you buy the kit and about ten minutes work.

 

I did the same with mine, hit it with electronic cleaner while I was there (79SC). If it lasts another 30 years like this, swell. If I have to do it again I'll consider the relay option.

 

120 - 179.00 for the switch plus shipping ..

 

Great thread--I will be ordering the relay kit along with some H4s to replace my sealed beams...

I recently replaced my switch due to a no-high-beam situation, using what I thought was a good used one. Now I have high beams but no flash-to-pass function. Any thoughts on how that can be fixed?

BTW, my old switch was missing the plastic tab that moved the contact bars forward and back, so it was defaulting to the low-beam position. I *did* have working flash-to-pass on the old switch, though.

Thanks!

 

Tim I am sure once you take your switch apart , and using this thread all will become aparent.. There is a "secondary" set of contacts in behind the first ( that is hard to show on the pic ) that feed current directly to your highbeam lights, as you pull the lever forward these two contacts are made and the high beams come on.
funny you said without the plastic plunger your default were lo beams .. the default should have been high beams , unless the PO rewired it , what year car do you have ? i wonder if the PO wired the lo beams directly to the headlight switch like mine did ... when you take the switch out you will see a yellow single connector that on my car was connected directly to the headlight switch that should not have been .. it will however give you lo beams in an emergency situation. I think it may be for an earlier car that have tonnes o light s on the hood.
Post us some pics and we can help you fix it ...

you can also try JB welding a liece of plastic on to your old one as I did and fix it .. or take the "plunger and bar out of your new one and put it in your old one .....
Before any of this though install your relay kit first and get the current flow through that switch down..

 

Also, if you are ordering the Euro H4s, then be aware that there is one type with a chrome bezel, and the other with a painted trim ring. The trim rings need to be purchased separately, and they fit over the H4 unit, which has black painted bezels and exposed adjustment screws. You might want to replace the foam rubber seals while you are at it.

 

Chrome bezels are in!

 

lol! Chrome bezels and hand made forged wheels in 17" diameter with custom offsets are so in style.

 

Hi again--

Nope, I've got an '86 Carrera that is box stock, I'm the third owner. No funny wiring at all and I did have lows but no highs. I did have a yellow wire that connected to another yellow wire that looped back into the switch harness, but that matched my new (to me) switch.

After I had the old switch out, I could see the contact bars move when I did the FTP motion, but when I "clicked" the stalk back for high beams, nothing inside the switch body moved.

I'll have to look at my old switch again to see the FTP action...I like the idea of combining for one good switch. Will also check my fuses and wiring again just in case...

 

sounds like it is all wired up correctly. Take the switch out and have a close look , sounds like the plunger is jammed and is not returnib to re-engage the lo beam .. A simple fix once you see how it works.

 

bump

 

Bumped for Dave

 

Just fixed mine after installing the relay.

I could not get the 27 mm nut loosned so I removed the side cover screws and had just enough room to use a pair of surgical tweezers to bend the middle bar a tiny bit away from contacting the first bar.

Works perfect now

 

slipping while trying to force that 27mm is a sure fire way to order a replacement windshield

 

Or raise your voice an octave

I'm lazy and use an impact for removal.