Hi / Lo headlight Switch repair thread
#16
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One night in 2005 (about 8 months after I got the car) I had to drive from Apsley to Toronto. I had never really driven the car yet in the 'real' dark, just 'city' dark. I left around sundown for this 2 hr + drive. Just south of Bobcaygeon, it was really, really dark. Cottage country. Rural 2 lane roads. Lots of rock & a major area for deer & drunken inbreds.
And with my H5s 45/65, I couldn't see anything. With the high beams it was moderately safe but every time I met a car I had to dim down & basically drive blind. It was a scary drive. I swore I wouldn't drive the car at night until I solved it.
H4s with 80/100s did. Now when I flame the highs - on that same drive - I can see a 1/4 mile ahead. Amazing & very, very safe. New wiring & HD sockets are very good insurance for very little cost as well.
Good write up, Clive. I suppose I should do a wiring diagram of your method for this thread rather than your stolen one.![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Ian
And with my H5s 45/65, I couldn't see anything. With the high beams it was moderately safe but every time I met a car I had to dim down & basically drive blind. It was a scary drive. I swore I wouldn't drive the car at night until I solved it.
H4s with 80/100s did. Now when I flame the highs - on that same drive - I can see a 1/4 mile ahead. Amazing & very, very safe. New wiring & HD sockets are very good insurance for very little cost as well.
Good write up, Clive. I suppose I should do a wiring diagram of your method for this thread rather than your stolen one.
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Ian
#17
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yup ..might be a good idea so i can take the other one down so i don't get sued .. but what the hell .. Bentley owes me an airbox and never payed up ...
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Well that was certainly not my layout at all. If I am reading that correctly the switch is fused but the headlight is not.
I don't remember the contacty numbers now but the relay should be BEFORE the fuse block so the high current passes through the fuse block. Maybe I am just reading it wromg
I don't remember the contacty numbers now but the relay should be BEFORE the fuse block so the high current passes through the fuse block. Maybe I am just reading it wromg
#21
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woo hoo !! way to go Ian ...
I was looking this morning at my car and considering upgrading the wire and socket ... doesn't look too bad . Maybe a future project...
I was looking this morning at my car and considering upgrading the wire and socket ... doesn't look too bad . Maybe a future project...
#22
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Great diagram. I like the colors and the symbols. Nice work, "right click" save as....
As an aside, I rummaged through my stuff to find out whih bulbs I'm using, after reading your discussion on lighting levels. I switched a few years ago to Sylvania "Silver Star" H4 bulbs. They are brighter and have better color rendition than my 55/100 bulbs. I must have switched when one of them burned out, probably about 4-5 years ago.
So, I have one 55/100 bulb if anyone wants it. I also have a pair of some sort of 90/100w "rally" H4 bulbs.
As an aside, I rummaged through my stuff to find out whih bulbs I'm using, after reading your discussion on lighting levels. I switched a few years ago to Sylvania "Silver Star" H4 bulbs. They are brighter and have better color rendition than my 55/100 bulbs. I must have switched when one of them burned out, probably about 4-5 years ago.
So, I have one 55/100 bulb if anyone wants it. I also have a pair of some sort of 90/100w "rally" H4 bulbs.
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For us guys with pre-74 cars, the J West/Sucro kits need some modifications. I went a different route by getting the parts from Daniel Stern (www.danielsternlighting.com).
While I currently only did the headlamps, I also laid out my plans for Fogs and Driving Lamps. My circuit digram is below. When I built it, I used 12 gauge THHN wire from my local hardware store (you can buy it by the foot). It is teflon coated to allow it to slip through the tight spaces and the insulation is rated for gasoline and oil service.
While I currently only did the headlamps, I also laid out my plans for Fogs and Driving Lamps. My circuit digram is below. When I built it, I used 12 gauge THHN wire from my local hardware store (you can buy it by the foot). It is teflon coated to allow it to slip through the tight spaces and the insulation is rated for gasoline and oil service.
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Wow what a great thread this is turning out to be . For those of you who want to understand a little more about electrical circuits these are all great diagrams that show the basics. Great contribution Harry. Is that set up for the Raleigh looking car with the driving lights mounted to the grills ? I think that is a great looking car, you should post up a pic of the front of your car so people can see the effect..
This one is more like Ian's original. uses a different approach for the same effect. The advantage is the switch current is actually still fused if that is important to you, and also you can change the fusing if you want in your added in line fuse holders, depending on the wattage bulbs you are running and gauge of the wire you are running.
The downside is it is a little more of a complex install with more fused lines running in the car than on the original panel.
Both excellent approaches though.
This one is more like Ian's original. uses a different approach for the same effect. The advantage is the switch current is actually still fused if that is important to you, and also you can change the fusing if you want in your added in line fuse holders, depending on the wattage bulbs you are running and gauge of the wire you are running.
The downside is it is a little more of a complex install with more fused lines running in the car than on the original panel.
Both excellent approaches though.
Last edited by theiceman; 04-29-2021 at 04:11 PM.
#25
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Hey Ian did you find a local suplier for the new ceramic headlight socket you used ?
I found a supplier in the US.
http://store.candlepower.com/cesohb90be.html
I found a supplier in the US.
http://store.candlepower.com/cesohb90be.html
Last edited by theiceman; 08-14-2009 at 11:48 AM.
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In case anyone is interested, with the relay setup you are running 150ma through the switch, ( the draw on the coil side of the relay. ) Where previously you could have run 8,000 ma before blowing the fuse .. but as we know it the switch was the fuse in this circuit anyway
I am pretty comfortable not having the 150ma fused
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#27
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Wow what a great thread this is turning out to be . For those of you who want to understand a little more about electrical circuits these are all great diagrams that show the basics. Great contribution Harry. Is that set up for the Ralley looking car with the driving lights mounted to the grills ? I think that is a great looking car, you should post up a pic of the front of your car so people can see the effect..
This one is more like Ians original. uses a diferent aproach for the same efect. The advantage is the switch current is actually still fused if that is important to you, and also you can change the fusing if you want in your added in line fuse holders, depending on the wattage bulbs you are running and guage of the wire you are running.
The downside is it is a little more of a complex install with more fused lines running in the car than on the original panel.
Both excellent aproaches though.
This one is more like Ians original. uses a diferent aproach for the same efect. The advantage is the switch current is actually still fused if that is important to you, and also you can change the fusing if you want in your added in line fuse holders, depending on the wattage bulbs you are running and guage of the wire you are running.
The downside is it is a little more of a complex install with more fused lines running in the car than on the original panel.
Both excellent aproaches though.
Thanks. I would like to show you a picture but like I said in my post, I only have the standard headlamp arrangement right now. Just planning for the future....
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