myflat6

I hope I don't destroy my numbers matching case! 7R case is a great case though.

I guess I could get the car to him before upholstery, but I would need to install the windows and at least the driver seat - but would have to remove those things afterwards for upholstery (headliner, carpet). He will be driving the car as part of the break in.

Spyerx

Nah. Just bolt on the seat and go :-)

if it’s run in and tuned could save some time on back end while waiting for the upholstery opening!

myflat6

Now you have me tempted more my wife said the same thing - I think she is anxious for this thing to be done. Hmmmmm....what to do....

Spyerx

I think getting the motor running and tuned will be a big mental and progress win ;-)

CBA

^^^ Exactly.... Huge win and it might give you that extra boost to finish it up, that's if you need it. 4 bolts for a seat.. easy & windows can stay in while interior is installed. On my '74 I drove the car for 6 months with no interior except windows(with felt) and window crank... didn't even have door pulls and just slide the metal rod in the door to open the doors. I had door seals just set in the channel without glue until I was ready to do that also.

Spyerx

headliner you want the windows out to do it right... that's the downside of putting the glass in.

myflat6

Right - and I really don’t want to risk the windows more than once. These are all matching original tinted glass.

I also realized I was still waiting for one section of my throttle linkage. There is a small section from the coupler to the bell crank that I needed to replace and have been waiting for a couple weeks for it. So it isn’t drivable quite yet.

In the meantime I have continued to do small things to the car. I wired up the fog lights so that is done. Getting my Rennline floorboards ready to install, which required the transfer of the clutch and gas pedal stops from the original wood part and I had to install a rivnut on the passenger side to replace the mounting stud that was rusted and snapped off by the PO. Also connected the fuel evap hose to my fiberglass shroud - nice to get some little things done while waiting. I still have a few items on the list.

Spyerx

so pretty. al the bits fitment looks GREAT

TheTorch

2 cents on the Rennline floorboards. They appeared to be exact size and shape matches for my original wood floorboards, but the after installation the clutch stop was not far enough away, even at the furthest setting. Easy to know if this is the case in a running car as the 915 doesn't have a synchro for reverse, so if you floor the clutch and still grind going into R, it's not right. You will not notice in the forward gears, so be forewarned.

I had to modify the Rennline floorboard by lengthening the slot for the clutch stop. Not a big deal with aluminum. It's entirely possible that the work I did installing Second Skin and new carpet affected the floorboard fit (though I was pretty careful to stay away from the pedals and all floorboard mounts) and you will not have this issue. But you will want to check the clutch stop when you get her running.

myflat6

thanks man - just need to get all these bits in motion on the road

myflat6

thanks for the heads up!

Cloggie

Just a thought, having fought through my '75's clutch cable waaaaaaay too often...grinding reverse can at times be caused by a clutch cable that is a little too loose. Follow the spec's and you will be fine, but for my '75 which regularly stretched its cables, the first sign of the cable stretch getting out of range was grinding going into reverse....

myflat6

Project has been somewhat quiet but here is an update.

- received the missing piece of the throttle rod and installed it. Adjusted to make wide open throttle but am still having weak return spring action. Did research and even reached out to Mark Jung - it sounds like MFI is known to have less snap back action than carbs. What is disappointing to me is that this is usually worsened by sticking throttle bodies from wear - mine were rebuilt by one of the best (Eurometrix) so I'm concerned that they do not snap back as strongly as they should. Not sure if new bushings are a bit tight - maybe loosen with usage and fuel running through them? Anyway, through my research I did find that it is common to add additional springs to help with this for MFI. I added a single spring and it solved the issue. Just not happy I had to do this with all my MFI being rebuilt and using new ball ends on the various rods.

Addressed oil leaks - yes you read that correctly Motor has never run but had leaks lol. This is an advantage of a car sitting with oil I guess. One leak was the small rubber oil line junction that connects to the oil tank. Was addressed by simply tightening the clamps more. The frustrating leaks were from the lower valve covers - notorious sources for leaks with our cars yes, I am using the old style mag covers - purposely didn't upgrade to the turbo covers because of esthetics - I like the look of these old covers in original black. My covers were checked for flatness and I tightened based on recommended cross cross pattern and 7.5 ftlbs. Noticed leaking, so I gradually tightened them but it never solved the leaking. The oil was coming through the stud holes - seemed like the aluminum washers, gasket and new lock nuts weren't holding oil back. So, I bought a set of silicone gaskets made by AppBiz, used new aluminum washers and lock nuts and no leaking! The silicone gaskets seemed to hug the studs tighter and further hug when tightened down and are squished. They are expensive but reusable and if they stop leaks are worth every penny. Now, I may still have leaks when the motor runs and goes through heat cycles - which would force me to upgrade to the turbo covers. I have heard great success stories with these gaskets so I am hoping I am good

Spyerx

I have a set of turbo lowers I believe... :-) I'm putting 964 lowers on mine - they use a rubber seal + the dual plug...

On my current 2.7 lowers I used a silicone type gasket, not the paper ones. for same reason

myflat6

I like that direction for your motor since you are going with dual plug. Very cool.

Sounds like you had success with the silicone ones on your 2.7? Seems like these things are worth the extra bucks.