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As usual, more awesome picture ****. Now with some added verbiage like: "tip of the shaft is cleared in the tunnel hole"
I've been lurking here for a while now and this thread finally gave me the impetus to register and comment...
It's ironic that the OP is conducting this operation right now. Why? Because Franny on Heidi & Franny's Garage just "inserted a shaft into the tunnel" recently too! Franny is just finishing up their 3.2 refresh and I just watched the process of angling the engine/transmission up so the shifter shaft can just squeeze into the tunnel. Excellent video series; she's so great to watch and learn from.
Hilarious that it's happening here and now given her video... and of course all the associated tongue-in-cheek, off-color comments. We're adults here, but prone to silliness. And it just so happens my chosen username is related to the off-color humor. It's also somewhat personally demeaning if you take it literally. This is a Schwäbish word I learned while working a summer at Daimler Benz* in Stuttgart. I learned it and incorporated it into my vocabulary before I realized/leaned of its rather salty denotation. It's one of MANY fantastic Schwäbish words & phrases that I came to know and use during my wonderful summer in Germany. I hope the self-deprecating humor is appreciated.
I could go on, but would rather not hijack the thread. I'll leave the word's meaning a mystery for the moment; I'm sure some/many here may know it.
And on that topic, what a WONDERFUL build! Good luck on making all the final parts come together!
*And yes, obviously Porsche was my first choice in jobs. But they only accepted Mechanical Engineers at the time, and I wasn't one. So I "settled" for a job at Mercedes, which turned out to be the highest-paid position offered in Western Europe that summer! Lucky me.
I bought what may be one of the last sets of Hella 118 driving/fogs from Eric at Auto Foreign Services. Eric (Esoteric on Early S) has been producing these kits to the absolute highest quality and concours level of accurate detail. I cannot describe the absolute beauty of this kit. I was disappointed to hear that he may not be producing these any longer in part due to not being able to compete with the kits made in China (most out there) due to ongoing increasing costs to produce these with the highest quality materials in the US. These things are exact detail of Hella 118’s and his horn grills fit perfectly (no gap). Go grab yourself a set before they are gone forever - seriously. He sells both the driving light and fogs and even in amber. In fact, it would be great if we could convince him to keep making these things.
I chatted with him. Kinda sad situation - he already ran out of the standard horn grills and I think that may be just the beginning as his inventory sells (particularly of items that are chrome). I am tempted to buy amber driving lights to keep on hand to swap out with my clear fogs whenever.
I chatted with him. Kinda sad situation - he already ran out of the standard horn grills and I think that may be just the beginning as his inventory sells (particularly of items that are chrome). I am tempted to buy amber driving lights to keep on hand to swap out with my clear fogs whenever.
sucks. The pieces are so nice. I’d pay more than he’s asking but i guess some are ok with what smc has made in China or wherever. He’s a good guy too talked with him at the last lit show.
Doing lots of little things to get everything hooked up again. Feeling lucky about finding a part that is unobtainium. I needed a single cold start injector - lucky to get one from Mark Jung. Also got to use a new tool to install the injector to keep with the original factory way by using pinch clamps.
Bled the brakes - I am so glad I invested in speed bleeders! Bled the system myself and it was easy peasy. Front of the car is off jack stands - rear will soon be on the ground - need to get a long cheater bar ready to torque the rear axle nuts down.
Yep - was looking up torque values earlier ~230 for castle nuts and ~340 for self lock (later cars). It was fun removing these things- should be fun to put back on
Will be interested to see how the peddle feels after a full bleed. I did bleed the crap out of them - have a lot of fluid to recycle lol.
Yep - was looking up torque values earlier ~230 for castle nuts and ~340 for self lock (later cars). It was fun removing these things- should be fun to put back on
Will be interested to see how the peddle feels after a full bleed. I did bleed the crap out of them - have a lot of fluid to recycle lol.
yeah for some reason it always seems like some air stays in some place somewhere... hell i bled the brakes on my 964 a few weeks ago and put about 1L through it, and each corner and a bit of air, and not right away either. no leaks, abs works fine, who knows.
250 isn't too bad... my 1/2" split beam will do that. 350 i needed to borrow the 3/4" snap on from the shop. those harbor freight aluminum jack handles are great as breaker bars. the center lock nuts on the new cars are 440ft lbs. huge PITA to do wheel swaps.
oh and thanks for the reminder on auto foreign service, i wanted to pickup one of his repo washer tanks for my blow by :-)
yeah for some reason it always seems like some air stays in some place somewhere... hell i bled the brakes on my 964 a few weeks ago and put about 1L through it, and each corner and a bit of air, and not right away either. no leaks, abs works fine, who knows.
250 isn't too bad... my 1/2" split beam will do that. 350 i needed to borrow the 3/4" snap on from the shop. those harbor freight aluminum jack handles are great as breaker bars. the center lock nuts on the new cars are 440ft lbs. huge PITA to do wheel swaps.
oh and thanks for the reminder on auto foreign service, i wanted to pickup one of his repo washer tanks for my blow by :-)
440!!!! Excellent idea using the washer tank bag - I like it
I have hooked up all cables and lines - but have noticed that there is little return tension on the accelerator rod. The throttle bodies were ‘tight’ but figured it was because they were freshly rebored and rebuilt. I have questions out to Mark Jung - hoping I don’t have to rework things.
Torqued axle nuts and inserted cotter pins
Put rear tires on and took off jack stands. First time on all 4 tires! Seems so much smaller now that it is on the ground.
So I am going to be making my own door handle pulls and pull straps. Been researching how to do this and it is pretty easy. Gonna buy leather strap, grommets and tools (punch and grommet tool). My daughter is creative and just restored a dresser and used leather pulls - inspired me.
So here is what I am thinking. I have the materials I bought from AppBiz (black vinyl RS door cards, leather handles and nylon pulls). I also have my shift **** and a sample of my seat material. I also threw in my brown belt for another color option.
I like the black leather door handle pull straps that Bob at AppBiz made but don’t like the nylon pull straps. I want the pull straps to be leather too - and am now thinking of going with brown to bring my seat inserts and shift **** out more. Just debating on shade of brown (leaning dark) and width (leaning wide/bold).
Making progress on crafting my own RS leather handles and pulls. I have only spent $25 to make what you see. I am still experimenting so these may not be final. They sure aren’t perfect but that is ok as I like the aged and rustic look.
I bought leather strap material in the color that I thought would accent the browns in my seat inserts and shift ****. Also purchased grommets, grommet insert tools and a leather hole punch.
Here is the beginning of the leather pull strap
Inserted the grommet - comparing to the black nylon RSA pull strap
Added the pull strap attachment and compared to the red RSA strap
I may burnish the edges and add black wrap stitching - or just leave as is.
Start of the door pull handles
Inserted grommets using the setting tools
Rolled the edges behind and added wrap black stitching to coordinate with the black door cards and rest of black interior. Simple, no frills look.
Compare what I made to the custom pull handle made by AppBiz and the traditional plastic RS pull handle. I still like what AppBiz made - but leaning towards where I am going with this.
Here is an idea of what this will look like on the door cards and with the seat fabric and ****. I may burnish edges, add more wrap stitching and change to black screws - but may go with what I have now.