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Thanks. Tells you something about our hobby when you realize we put so much thought into the under hood lights -- possibly the least used bulbs on the car since the parking lights at least have to be on and the hood open.
Apologies to @myflat6 if I am hijacking the thread. I love the exchange of knowledge and info. I should probably start my own thread on my work so I don't over post on yours or others. Coming from the 997 forum, every little project has its own new thread, but this single-thread-per-car works so much better in this 911 forum, like a long form history of one's car. Thanks again for sparking such great convo on a great build.
No worries about posting to my thread!! I enjoy discussion and sharing of info related to these cars.
Very nice on electrical!
I wired my driving lights to high beams so no switch
assume the high beam and turn indicator dash lights working?
reverse? That one was an sob to fix on mine. Reverse worked with lights on only. Was a crossed wire at block
ashtray light? Yes there is one!
fan light on heater console?
here's a stupid question
did the frunk on these have 2 bulbs and lenses?
my car when i got it didn’t habe the hood harness. So i made one.
the wire was there next to the hood shock but no wires in the hood
the po had put 2 hella lenses in the hood... they worked fine once wired with a switch.
Yes, high beams, indicators, hazards, brake lights and various dash lights all work. I did replace some of the dash bulbs and one bulb socket in a gauge that was faulty - I also added relays for the headlights. I don't know about reverse - I need to test. When I bought the car, the frunk, glovebox, license plate lights and domes didn't work. I replaced the frunk and glovebox lights and repaired the wiring to the domes that had been cut - that was a pain to fish the wires down the a-pillar and had to run wire for the license plate and get new lenses as the PO hacked off the wiring when they added the ducktail. I was able to get help on Pelican for a few wiring questions - not as bad as I thought it was going to go.
The '72 and '73 longhoods have just one frunk light. It was two through '71. I didn't have a frunk light lens in my car when I bought it. The wiring was there but disconnected.
Wiring standard driving lights through the headlight/high beam switch is right, but since I opted for the fog light version of the driving lights, I didn't want to wire them through the high beam switch (doesn't help with fog lol) They should be turned on separately with a fog light switch - just like regular fogs below the bumper.
Word to the wise, pull the defroster switch and replace with the driving / fog switch before you reinstall the blower assembly. Or you have to pull it. Unless you can go through the dash speaker.
My hood lights are wired through both the high beams and a switch that lights up dimly when the highs are on but the driving lights are off, and bright when both on. A PO put the switch where the Webasto heater would have been (under the speedo), so I left it there.
@Spyerx my car had one hella under hood frunk light, but the ground was disconnected from the opening strut switch. After cracking the plastic of the light while fixing, I ordered 2 from Stoddard since the wiring was in the hood harness (both sides). Today's project.
Yes - good point about replacing defrost switch. I have direct access now through the speaker cutout - looks like it would be a pain without this access.
Did you refurb the foam seals in the blower system?
Having done this recently, some tips:
The plastic nibs that hold the 2 halves of the blower housing are highly fragile and prone to snapping when you try to remove the c-clips. Avoid removing them at all costs. The flapper valve (2) foam in the center blower unit can be replaced without splitting the unit. It's tricky and annoying, but you can take the 2 halves of the valves apart without splitting the plastic case. The foam part is available here: https://914rubber.com/
If you do decide to split the case, the c-clips are very, very strong and tend to break the nibs when removing or reinstalling. Ask me how I know. I even bought replacements from Stoddard, but they were flimsy like a paper clip and didn't work. Had to use "E"-clips to put it back together.
Check the gasket between the blower and the fresh air box. Mine was disintegrated and causing a rattle. There are 2 in the marketplace I found: one is a generic circle that I got from https://914rubber.com/, the other (901-571-922-01 from Stoddard) is cut to fit but no adhesive to hold it in place when you remount the blower. I went with the Stoddard one.
If you find that any of the all-plastic flappers in the distribution towers (Drivers or Pass) are broken (2 of mine were), PM me. I had to fab new hinges out of plastic epoxy. It worked. Took a long time. See last photo.
they are very prone to jumping several feet to be lost or maybe into your eye, so cover them with a cloth during removal - don't ask how I know this...
I forget what I used to replace the foam seals with - thin wetsuit neoprene will work but is maybe too flexy
- the old foam on mine was 4-5 mm thick, but maybe it was swollen
the circular metal flaps or valves can be cleaned and re-plated - I just cleaned mine and derusted them
I used a teflon spray to lube everything; Superlybe might be better
^ ok good to know - I am already starting the list for phase 2 of this restoration/build. I know the trans will be redone at some point so I will have a list of things to do during the downtime.
I may start a top 10 list for most annoying things restoring one of these cars
Installing and adjusting new control cables for the fresh air/heater flappers is near the top of my s**t list so far. Took me hours under the dash and in the trunk to route one new cable / housing and adjust all 3 levers and associated valves. Nice to have them work perfectly, but that was a chore !
Installing and adjusting new control cables for the fresh air/heater flappers is near the top of my s**t list so far. Took me hours under the dash and in the trunk to route one new cable / housing and adjust all 3 levers and associated valves. Nice to have them work perfectly, but that was a chore !
Many of the challenging or at least annoying tasks often have to do with difficult access. Working under the dash definitely stinks.
Bought some flush rubber plugs for the antenna hole and windshield washer spray nozzle holes. Not installing a radio nor the windshield washing bottle etc. It's a hotrod. Plus I have used the windshield washer in my SC maybe once in 20 years and all that happens is problems when you fill with fluid and it doesn't get used. Old fluid clogs the lines with dusty residue and damages the pump. I replaced the pump on my SC 10 years ago - as I noticed it was leaking and not working - only to never use it after that. This car will be easily returned to stock if so desired. Maybe in 10 years that will be my project lol
01-09-2021 | 09:53 PM
