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Damn has it been that long? I think we got our cars about the same time....
just changed oil in mine today.
new engine soonish but figured i should it’s been a year...
this might have been the first time i pulled a 911 filter and didn’t drop a drip of oil out on the frame rail...!!!
good karma!
I got my car in June of 2018 and as I recall, you found yours about that same time or a couple of months later? Yes, the time has flown by !
R.
Yep! We were searching together. October 2018 for me. Got a good deal so I thought - but didn't intend to do a full nut and bolt restoration! Way over the budget I thought I would be spending on this car.
You hear a lot of people say "you can't build a car for that price" when you see fully restored cars for sale or auctioned. I am now seeing how that can be true!
speaking of cost, just got a quote to refresh my '69 gauges (all are in perfect working order, good condition, but do need some TLC and new glass / bezels). $3,200 plus tax, 3-4 month lead time right now.
Wow! I paid $1500 for my gauge work. This included repairing them (weren't functioning properly) and restoring them (bezels, glass, pointers). I will say that prices continue to rise on all specialty services and longer lead times. I waited for many months to over a year for motor specialty work. For me, the biggest surprise was my brightwork trim restoration - it was over $3k and took 3 months - and this was not including any bumper or rocker trim, as I found it was a lot cheaper to buy quality aftermarket parts.
Just getting everything prepped - making sure the two dolly’s line up with one another. Plan to install clutch (staying with stock setup including aluminum pressure plate) this weekend, then attach gearbox to motor. Hook up starter and reverse light wiring and have the heart of my car ready to be back in its home over the holiday break.
Update on wheels and tires. For those following along for a while may recall I had purchased Maxilite 7R/Deep 7 wheels for the rear. Unfortunately, I decided to sell those wheels and stay with stock 15x6 all around — at least for now. The Maxilite wheels were requiring a spacer of ~25mm to clear my brakes. From what I understand ‘real’ 7R wheels only require spaces of 5mm to 8mm - that is what I was hoping for when I purchased them. The barrels were designed differently which creates the caliper clearance issues. The offset was also slightly different with the Maxilites (47.4 vs 49) so the resulting offset with spacers would have been ~ 22.4. This made me uncomfortable with the possibility of rubbing on the upper fender area (About inch up from lip) under suspension compression. I personally do not like the look of the later 15x7 wheels on the early cars and was avoiding them for the same offset concerns (23.3).
long story short, I have stock 15x6 Fuchs all around with stock 185/70 tires. Hearing rave reviews of the Pirelli CN36’s I decided to give them a try - they also look the part.
I still would like something meatier on the rear but want time to figure it out. I am not going to spend $$ on real 7R’s
I didn’t spend much on my Fuchs, as I did the RSR style refinishing myself. They are far from perfect, but good enough for a hotrod - especially if I may change my setup at some point.
Here are some photos
What brakes are you running? Have a set of Maxlite 7R's and running 964 brakes. No spacers needed to clear brakes on existing 6's so hoping no issue.
I have stock brakes on the rear. The barrels in the Maxilites taper and wouldn't clear my brakes until they cleared the tapered areas. Whereas Fuchs barrels don't have that long taper - the barrels open up quickly and wide. A lot of guys like the Maxilites - saw good reviews on Early S and it does look like they are all running wider spacers.
btw... if you plan to run the cover over the heating bits... the App Biz part is good, have it on mine.
Sierra Madre (I think it is) has a nice replica 'cardboard' cover for the fuse block, probably good to run to keep stuff from smashing into the wiring...
12-14-2020, 01:08 AM
