Thanks for the additional info Westcoast!
👍🏼

 

Good to know! 👍🏼

 

Ugh the sound of a part / screw falling into the abyss is so dreadful.

I’ve read that closed flaps on some engines help boost torque at lower rev’s. I wonder if this holds true for the 4.0 liter six? If so I’ll keep the muffled sound.

 

Everything I have read/seen states it’s due to the new Euro Noise regulations. Also that keeping the valves closed all the time is bad due to back pressure, thus the 3 mode version (third mode closed 100%) being a bad idea.

 

Oh boy, that sounds like a test of one’s patience Westcoast.

 

Yes, I was a little beside myself when the clip dropped, quickly decided a little time out was in order...

 

Thanks, appreciate it. But, I'd really feel better after seeing dyno results. I googled and couldn't locate a video or published results.

 

It might be not Euro regulation - US also have not easy noise regulations, some time ago a Tesla failed some noise test

 

Not quite sure what you need dyno results for with respect to the controller?

 

Just installed mine... Took my time and had no real issues. The videos and Westcoast's advice helped a ton. Hardest part was disengaging the plug and installing the new ones. Talk about being tight space!!! Got it done. Mounted the module in where the rest of the electronics were to be consistent. Loved that you can program the remotes through Homelink... Works like a charm!

 

Very nice install & thanks for posting the photos. Accessing that plug must be next to impossible without temporarily disconnecting some other lines. From your pics, the plug seems tucked right underneath the arch of the intake runner. Could you actually get into that space with your fingers or did you use some kind of tool. Just disconnecting the OEM plug has to be problematic. What did you use for that, I'm presuming a flat screwdriver??

 

You can barely touch it with one or two fingers and that’s with the vacuum lines detached. I used the below tool to lift the grey tab to release the connector plug. The Cargraphic module uses Porsche OEM connector plugs. To familiar yourself on how they work, connect the module plugs into each other to practice how they work before attempting the plug on the engine. This will save you a ton of frustration. I used a large long flathead screwdriver to guide module plugs. After doing it, giving it more thought... might have been easier to tape the plug loosely to the screwdriver to guide it easier... but I managed (after a few failed attempts) to connect both plugs. Also I used fabric electrical tape instead of duct tape to secure the wire from the engine cover (forgot to take a pic of that). Good luck! Have a lot of patience with the plugs!

 

Thanks, that's excellent advice! Can appreciate how that Husky right angle tool would work well in that tight spot. Any videos I've seen were with a Spyder & most of the emphasis has been on getting the convertible soft top apart, rather than connecting the actual module to the solenoid of the car.

 

Just did a nice little drive to test the controller. I personally love how much of a difference it makes sound wise. Like the fact that I can go back to stock just by pushing my Homelink button. I think I'm going to hold off on the OAP for now.

 

That’s good news. Any unwanted drone while cruising valves open (when they’d normally be closed)?