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Hmmmm, I think that with a little more effort you can get them back...
Seriously, I think it is how one pulls the shifter back from 1 to 2, pull back towards yourself and it can grind, concentrating on pulling straight back really help minimize it.
my experience was if you didn’t take the time to hit the notch going from 1st to 2nd, you’d get the grind. No power shifting! But as of recent that has cleared up for me. I did a couple of shifts around the 6K mark and it slid right in 😁.
my experience was if you didn’t take the time to hit the notch going from 1st to 2nd, you’d get the grind. No power shifting! But as of recent that has cleared up for me. I did a couple of shifts around the 6K mark and it slid right in 😁.
Same. I've only had one grind, and even it wasn't much of one, but the 1-2 shift was always a bit notchy. In the last 100ish miles, it feels like it has become a lot smoother.
Same. I've only had one grind, and even it wasn't much of one, but the 1-2 shift was always a bit notchy. In the last 100ish miles, it feels like it has become a lot smoother.
it’s taken 4000mi but it has gotten a lot smoother. I’m not 100% sure if that’s the car or me subconsciously adapting to the car, slowing the shift a pinch. But overall it feels less notchy so maybe both …
2300 miles now. Has not done it since 1200 miles when dealer
changed the gear oil.
Sounds like maybe shavings developed during the first couple hundred miles and then making its way to get in between the synchro teeth. Will take an oil sample. If anyone else is thinking about changing tranny oil consider taking samples so we can all compared notes.
My gearbox came into its own at about 4k miles. NOW it feels like it should have from the beginning.
After how many grinds, roughly speaking? Besides the grinding, what else has noticeably improved? When I bought my previous 718 GTS with 10K miles, I felt that the transmission was buttery smooth and I suspect it was a PEC car from all the grit and rock chips around the car. Adding numeric shifter on top of that is a whole new level higher than my 718 GT4 stock shifter.
After how many grinds, roughly speaking? Besides the grinding, what else has noticeably improved? When I bought my previous 718 GTS with 10K miles, I felt that the transmission was buttery smooth and I suspect it was a PEC car from all the grit and rock chips around the car. Adding numeric shifter on top of that is a whole new level higher than my 718 GT4 stock shifter.
A couple times a week until 4000mi. Keeping the car under 4000rpm for the first 3000mi is pretty rough so it feels like a very different and much improved car when you go weapons free on the rpm gauge. The car at 7000rpm+ is even more amazing. I also feel like the car settled in and revs more freely as it wore in over the first 3000mi. The time to hit “much too fast” on the highway is a lot shorter now. But maybe that’s just driver psychology. I don’t have anything objective there.
The carbon ceramics also took about 3500mi to settle in and stop squeaking around town.
A couple times a week until 4000mi. Keeping the car under 4000rpm for the first 3000mi is pretty rough so it feels like a very different and much improved car when you go weapons free on the rpm gauge. The car at 7000rpm+ is even more amazing. I also feel like the car settled in and revs more freely as it wore in over the first 3000mi. The time to hit “much too fast” on the highway is a lot shorter now. But maybe that’s just driver psychology. I don’t have anything objective there.
The carbon ceramics also took about 3500mi to settle in and stop squeaking around town.
I am at 4400km, and the trans can still grind on a 1-2 shift...
The PCCBS have been mostly quietly for some time now, maybe since 2000km, now they just make a subtle whoosh when being applied.
what process did you use? The one i have seen from porsche looks really difficult, its much longer than the steel brakes. Iirc its 3 different stages
It is more involved that bedding in iron rotors and you really have to find some long empty road where you absolutely will not have to come to a complete stop, and then can also transition to a highway without stopping so you can do proper cool down after you complete the process. I found some guidance on a Porsche site that I used, similar to some other write ups.
Did you bed them in? I went through a bed in process the day I picked up my car and my PCCBs have never squealed once.
This sounds interesting...
Originally Posted by Archimedes
It is more involved that bedding in iron rotors and you really have to find some long empty road where you absolutely will not have to come to a complete stop, and then can also transition to a highway without stopping so you can do proper cool down after you complete the process. I found some guidance on a Porsche site that I used, similar to some other write ups.
It's really not that hard as long as you find a road with light traffic and good visibility to traffic lights, so you can time and roll through if you need to. You also need a road where you can get up to high speed 75-100mph. This is something CJ posted a while back. The procedure I followed was similar to this, but not exactly the same. Mine used some higher speed runs. I can't seem to find a link to the one that I used.
It's really not that hard as long as you find a road with light traffic and good visibility to traffic lights, so you can time and roll through if you need to. You also need a road where you can get up to high speed 75-100mph. This is something CJ posted a while back. The procedure I followed was similar to this, but not exactly the same. Mine used some higher speed runs. I can't seem to find a link to the one that I used.
Thanks for sharing this, it is quite the process! A big problem for me, locally there is no where to get to these speeds repeatedly without the excellent chance of getting my car impounded, doing over 40 sprints above legal speeds will get noticed by somebody!
I the idea of pad material transferring to the rotor is an interesting part of it, I would guess that as this is break in he is referring to the Porsche OEM pads?
Lastly, now that I have 4500km on them and they are not squealing I wonder if there is any benefit or point in doing this at all?
Thanks for sharing this, it is quite the process! A big problem for me, locally there is no where to get to these speeds repeatedly without the excellent chance of getting my car impounded, doing over 40 sprints above legal speeds will get noticed by somebody!
I the idea of pad material transferring to the rotor is an interesting part of it, I would guess that as this is break in he is referring to the Porsche OEM pads?
Lastly, now that I have 4500km on them and they are not squealing I wonder if there is any benefit or point in doing this at all?
Breaking in any type of rotor, PCCB or iron, you're goal is to transfer pad material to the rotor. If you've already done 4500km, you've already transferred material to the rotor and, as long as they're not squealing, you probably don't need to do anything. If they start to squeal, just do a series of hard braking from 60-5mph and it should go away.