Exhaust flap switch
#151
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Before I pull the line, don’t I have to get the flap opened by running the car with the exhaust button on? Can I turn off the car so it is not too hot? Or pull the line while running?
#152
Intermediate
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The previous description worked great for me! The valves are normally open so when the vacuum lines are removed, they are already open. It is pretty easy to remove the vacuum lines and insert the M6 grub screw even without being on a lift or jackstands. I did it by hand (although on one side it did came off quickly as I was forcing it, and I have a bloody knuckle to show for it!). Suggest that you do it when the car is cold; much easier to touch/feel what you're doing. Enjoy the music.
#153
Rennlist Member
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How did those of you who used the vacuum line unplugging method with no lift see where to plug the line back in? Completely based on feel? A little nervous that I’ll be able to pull off the lines, insert the grub screws and then not be able to reattach the vacuum lines. The online pics and graphic of the engine and exhaust are helpful in seeing where everything attaches but it does make me a bit nervous not being able to see where the nub on the valve is actually at (nor can I get my hands up to that area). Any tips are greatly appreciated.
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Motoss (08-09-2020)
#154
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yup, feel based.. although I had lifted the car previously to locate everything.. but is not needed . as long the car is completely cold, you can feel everything..
#155
Rennlist Member
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Ended up doing the vacuum line mod with the grub screws and actually like the sound. There is a hint of resonance between 2-2.5k RPM in certain situations but it doesn’t bother me given that I wanted the car to sound more robust below 4K. And the fact that I only take the GT4 out for spirited drives, usually by myself (my happy place), and don’t care to listen to music while doing so makes it completely acceptable. I believe the next step is Soul over-axle pipes - no other reasons for Soul other than I have buddies that have been very happy with them on other p-cars so figured I’d give it a shot. In the interim, I recommend yanking those vacuum lines, screwing in some M6 grub screws, reconnecting and enjoying more of that sweet n/a engine.
I’ve mentioned here before but I came from a tuned C4S that was basically my dream car. I can’t tell you how much more I enjoy the GT4 despite the additional torque and somewhat added practicality of the 991.2. . I will without a doubt get a GT3 or GT3RS at some point but right now I’m enjoying the current car about as much as I ever thought I could enjoy a car. It’s a long-term keeper.
I’ve mentioned here before but I came from a tuned C4S that was basically my dream car. I can’t tell you how much more I enjoy the GT4 despite the additional torque and somewhat added practicality of the 991.2. . I will without a doubt get a GT3 or GT3RS at some point but right now I’m enjoying the current car about as much as I ever thought I could enjoy a car. It’s a long-term keeper.
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Jim Rockford (08-15-2020)
#156
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yep, 370 was what I paid. It’s easy. You press and hold the button you want to program until the red light blinks, then you go to the front of the car and press And hold the button of the remote until the turn lights blink 3x and it’s done.
Of the whole part of the process the most annoying is by far the installation. You have to disassemble half of the car to get to the top of the engine, and then you need tiny hands to get to the solenoid connector almost underneath the intake manifold.
Of the whole part of the process the most annoying is by far the installation. You have to disassemble half of the car to get to the top of the engine, and then you need tiny hands to get to the solenoid connector almost underneath the intake manifold.
#157
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I have a new mod method which may be easier.
Get some single strand steel wire and tie the flap control arm so its fixed to the open position ( Engine off will have the open position).
I twisted a bit to the arm, looped it to the otherside and back and then twist joined the two ends. Make it tight.
Get some single strand steel wire and tie the flap control arm so its fixed to the open position ( Engine off will have the open position).
I twisted a bit to the arm, looped it to the otherside and back and then twist joined the two ends. Make it tight.
#158
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I'd say close to 3 hours in total... the most laborious is disassembling the whole car to get access to the engine bay.
Then you need to get good light in there to see and fish the original solenoid connector, pry it out and connect the cargraphics connector. Then again 45-60 min to close and put the interior back together.
Then you need to get good light in there to see and fish the original solenoid connector, pry it out and connect the cargraphics connector. Then again 45-60 min to close and put the interior back together.
#159
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I'd say close to 3 hours in total... the most laborious is disassembling the whole car to get access to the engine bay.
Then you need to get good light in there to see and fish the original solenoid connector, pry it out and connect the cargraphics connector. Then again 45-60 min to close and put the interior back together.
Then you need to get good light in there to see and fish the original solenoid connector, pry it out and connect the cargraphics connector. Then again 45-60 min to close and put the interior back together.
Did you find a good set of instructions on how to do it? Janko's video is quite useful but it's for a Spyder and there seems to be some differences with the GT4
#160
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No... the instructions that come with the product are horrible, nearly worthless. I found this one video of a guy disassembling a cayman with an annoying music on the background, but honestly didn't see anything on a Spyder. I'd imagine it's close enough to a Boxster 981 no?
#161
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No... the instructions that come with the product are horrible, nearly worthless. I found this one video of a guy disassembling a cayman with an annoying music on the background, but honestly didn't see anything on a Spyder. I'd imagine it's close enough to a Boxster 981 no?
#162
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sure this is the one:
it’s a 981 cayman but it’s very similar. The only thing was I needed to remove the aluminum brackets that hold that brushed aluminum bar on the back of the engine bay to access the 2 torx screws that are tough to access with a ratchet.
it’s a 981 cayman but it’s very similar. The only thing was I needed to remove the aluminum brackets that hold that brushed aluminum bar on the back of the engine bay to access the 2 torx screws that are tough to access with a ratchet.
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RyuBraska (08-19-2020)
#163
Rennlist Member
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Great thread, marked for future reference.