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I glanced through your recent thread posts to see if anyone has mentioned the emergency key release. The tool for this is attached to the back of the fuse box lid. Here is the instructions in case this helps. Of course, the car might still grab the key back each time, but this might at least allow you to get it out if needed and to reduce battery drain.
Wow, I'll try that when I get back home. Wife and I are on our Anniversary till tomorrow. I plan to finish the flush/fill and drive the car tomorrow. I'll let you know if it works.
I glanced through your recent thread posts to see if anyone has mentioned the emergency key release. The tool for this is attached to the back of the fuse box lid. Here is the instructions in case this helps. Of course, the car might still grab the key back each time, but this might at least allow you to get it out if needed and to reduce battery drain.
Thanks. Never knew about this one. I tried it and got my keys out. However I have to do it each time I put the key in. Really strange what is causing this.
Well I was able to pressurize my coolant system. I let it sit for about 15 mins and no leaks. So I filled it up with distilled water via my airlift 5500. Wow that thing works great! I started the car up and watched for any coolant explosions. The car ran perfectly for about 25 minutes. Gauges were good.
My hopes were up and I thought since the 26 psi of pressure hadn't popped the hose off I was good. I then put in the (Distilled Water) coolant. The Airlift is great and it only took about 3 minutes or less. No hoses popped off. So I started the car and let it run up to temperature. The water temp was steady at 175 degrees. The oil temp was very slow to come up to temp but when it reached right under 200 degrees or a bit less, I heard the gush of water. I immediately turned off the car and discovered that the top radiator hose (which I had fixed a few days earlier) had popped off.
Now I am starting to think maybe I need some brand new radiator hoses. These were used hoses. The clips are the quick connect types. I made sure the clips were tightly placed on the hose connections however they keep popping off. I wish these were regular spring clip types. Am I looking at replacing the metal hoses to the radiators in order to get a good solid connection and get rid of this problem? I also didn't see the radiator fans come on. Not sure if they are actually plugged in, could that be a problem and cause the hoses to come off? Well I'll order some new hoses and try again. It appears that the system holds pressure up to 200 degrees and then one of the hoses will come off.
I bought the Airlift 5500 and used it to pressurize my coolant system. The coolant reservoir adapters didn't work, except for a cone shaped one. I did have a problem getting this cone shaped adapter to fit beneath the rear hood hinge area. I got it tight but was wondering if there is an actual adapter that fits. I see in the PET it talks about a K22 adapter. I have not been able to find this on google. The cone one seems like it worked. It did enable the tool to come up to pressure but it takes quite a bit of finesse to fit it on the reservoir tank.
I know you got a new motor but did I see that correctly in one of the videos the car has close to 250k miles on it ?
Yes. It's in great shape (body wise) for that many miles. My understanding from the seller that the engine was removed and sold! For what I don't know but wow, that's more miles than I had on my BMW 528i (167000).
Any progress with your P problem?
No idea how your linkage on the tiptronic looks like, if that would be OK, than you can remove your centre console to access your selector lever, there is the adjustment possible, item 2, ref 996 426 035 00 on your PET
If it latches in P after adjustment and allow you to release the key you're good.
Before removing your centre console I would just open up the cable linkage under the car and see if you can move the linkage on the tiptronic till you see the P show up.
Any progress with your P problem?
No idea how your linkage on the tiptronic looks like, if that would be OK, than you can remove your centre console to access your selector lever, there is the adjustment possible, item 2, ref 996 426 035 00 on your PET
If it latches in P after adjustment and allow you to release the key you're good.
Before removing your centre console I would just open up the cable linkage under the car and see if you can move the linkage on the tiptronic till you see the P show up.
It might be possible that in the selector lever assembly the reed contact broke off which prevents the P detection, unlikely as you are still be able to start the car so it detects the P... Here is a good link to pictures of the selector lever which is more clear than a PET drawing. http://www.fvd.de/us/en/Porsche-0/-/...t_bracket.html
Rickster997
Yes, I can't get my key out and it runs the battery down. I used the "emergency" key disengage procedure I got from a member here. However I have to do this procedure every-time I shut off the car.
Some people have said that it may be the ignition swith. When I first had the tranny and engine installed I didn't have this problem. I was able to put the key in and get it out. I was able to start the car and get my key out. Just after I started driving the car, actually the 2nd time I drove the car was when the key didn't want to come out. Before then I was able to get the key out and no ignition problems. Could it be an ECU issue?
Well I'll have to check the shifter. I did check the shifter cable underneath the car. It was solidly in its clip and looks ok.
Quick question, so if I go under the car and move the cable a click, I can get back up and check the display and it will show me what gear I am in?
Today I took the car for a spin. It was dark so I didn't get film yet. Tomorrow morning I will go for another spin and provide some video. Going at night was probably a good idea as I don't have a the rear or front bumper on. Fortunately no police were around. I had just finished putting on new radiator hoses and new henn clips. The pressure held at 180-200 and the hoses didn't pop out! So I took the car off the Escos and shift in reverse and down the street I went. The car has good pickup and torque. I didn't hit it hard (boy I can't wait to!) but brought it up to temp (I only went around the park near my house) and no hose issues. I may put the front bumper on tomorrow and go an extra turn around the block. So the car blipped through the gears correctly. Park was park and reverse was reverse and drive was drive. So when I get back to my garage I put it into park and the key would not come out. I think it may be a switch in the shifter that may be off. I'll have to take the shifter off to see. Anyone have a DIY for this? Another issue that I think has occurred is that my Driver side headlight now is out. I noticed this after the 2nd hose had popped off and water was all over the back of the light and the connector. I checked the bulb, put it in the other light, tried to connect the passenger side light on the driver side connector and no light on the driver side. Gee I hope I haven't shorted out something, that light was quite expensive. Before all this the light worked perfectly. The high beam did come on once tonight but after that it didn't come on again. The car really is lighter than my M5 and sounds really good. So tomorrow the rear bumper will go on and the front wheel well liners (don't want another popped radiator to kill the other light) and maybe the front bumper.
01-17-2017, 10:11 PM
