What did you do to your 996TT today?
#856
That's above my pay grade but any competent mechanic can explain it to you...
Last edited by powdrhound; 07-17-2014 at 12:12 AM.
#857
RMC1148, saves crank thrust bearings....very easy/good mod to do...
Cheers,
Cheers,
#858
Great info here
Haven't noted any change in pedal pressure/feel yet, but will try to feel out the scenario you are talking about.
Cheers,
Rob
Haven't noted any change in pedal pressure/feel yet, but will try to feel out the scenario you are talking about.
Cheers,
Rob
I was at my race shop and had a 997GT2 oil scavenge pump / vacuum pump installed on the car. I am extremely happy with this conversion as there is a huge improvement in brake pedal feel compared to the stock 996TT/GT2/GT3 stock vacuum set up. I have been running the complete 997GT3 RS 380/350 brake system on my car for the last 3 years including the 997GT3 brake master cylinder. Even though my brake pedal has been very firm compared to the previous 350/350 set up, it still did not quite have the same feel as a 997GT3. One of my gripes has been the fact that sometimes when I would transition very quickly from full throttle to max braking, my brake would not have quiet the bite they normally have and braking would require a lot of pedal effort. Basically, what was happening was insufficient vacuum. I went over this with my race shop and it was decided to install the 997GT2 vacuum pump. On the 997GT2/GT3/TT, Porsche installed a separate vacuum pump which is piggybacked onto the drivers side exhaust cam oil pump. On the 996GT2/GT3/TT, brake vacuum is tapped of the throttle body. I am assuming that Porsche added the vacuum pump to improve brake feel and consistency.
The conversion is a direct swap. The exhaust cam oil scavenge pump is removed and replaced with the 997GT2 oil/vacuum pump. The stock 997GT2 vacuum line is routed from the pump and plugged into the stock 996 vacuum line which is just left of the F-hose. It is a direct plug in as the connectors are identical. All that is left is to remove the stock vacuum line that connects to the check valve at the throttle body. We installed a rubber vacuum cap on the stock nipple of the check valve at the throttle body. You also need to install a small rubber vacuum cap on the nipple that goes to the exhaust flap in the 997 cars. You can get the vacuum caps from NAPA. Total time of the swap was about 3 hours start to finish with everything essentially plug and play.
The result of the conversion is profound and make the brakes feel identical to those of the 997GT cars. Pedal firmness is drastically improved along with improved modulation. This is a huge improvement especially for those that track their cars. I can see why Porsche decided to go this route on the 997GT/TT cars.
The conversion is a direct swap. The exhaust cam oil scavenge pump is removed and replaced with the 997GT2 oil/vacuum pump. The stock 997GT2 vacuum line is routed from the pump and plugged into the stock 996 vacuum line which is just left of the F-hose. It is a direct plug in as the connectors are identical. All that is left is to remove the stock vacuum line that connects to the check valve at the throttle body. We installed a rubber vacuum cap on the stock nipple of the check valve at the throttle body. You also need to install a small rubber vacuum cap on the nipple that goes to the exhaust flap in the 997 cars. You can get the vacuum caps from NAPA. Total time of the swap was about 3 hours start to finish with everything essentially plug and play.
The result of the conversion is profound and make the brakes feel identical to those of the 997GT cars. Pedal firmness is drastically improved along with improved modulation. This is a huge improvement especially for those that track their cars. I can see why Porsche decided to go this route on the 997GT/TT cars.
#860
remove wires from this switch, connect the two wires via a double spade connection, a flat-blade fuse, soldier, etc. and tie wires up out of the way, clutch switch mod done!
#862
#863
#864
Hey V,
No effect no cruise control, this switch's only function is starter regulation.
Cheers,
No effect no cruise control, this switch's only function is starter regulation.
Cheers,
#865
Cool. So if you clutch-in while in cruise control, the cruise disengages? I'm only asking because I've read about bypass in other cars where doing this would just keep the engine revving because, well... the clutch switch is bypassed.
If I drove mine during winter and/or didn't garage it, I could make it a candidate for a remote starter. In the end though, it's not me I'm worried about - but ANYone else, from mechanic to valet to whomever might turn that key with it in gear. I've seen some close calls.
-V
If I drove mine during winter and/or didn't garage it, I could make it a candidate for a remote starter. In the end though, it's not me I'm worried about - but ANYone else, from mechanic to valet to whomever might turn that key with it in gear. I've seen some close calls.
-V
#866
Correct, the cruise/ECU clutch switch is a separate part, and cruise functions completely normal.
The mod should be considered offroad use/race use only.
The mod should be considered offroad use/race use only.