So what did you do to your 928 Today......
#6871
Rennlist Member
MAF is drifting rich....so sent off for another from Roger...
um....am getting a zeitronics Zt-3 AFR /O2 and display to do some custom work...it allows you to send narrow-band signals of the APR of your choice ...so I'm all over that....
Ordered a new 83C thermostat from 928Intl and 2 Gallons of Zerex G-5...for a full coolant change-over...I'll be using distilled water to mix with the concentrate of course...
There's a 78C thermo in there now and it won't warm up in winter..so rarely is it running correctly in cold months...so need to fix that...what else...I think that's about it for now...going to tear down tomorrow in prep for the new MAF...
um....am getting a zeitronics Zt-3 AFR /O2 and display to do some custom work...it allows you to send narrow-band signals of the APR of your choice ...so I'm all over that....
Ordered a new 83C thermostat from 928Intl and 2 Gallons of Zerex G-5...for a full coolant change-over...I'll be using distilled water to mix with the concentrate of course...
There's a 78C thermo in there now and it won't warm up in winter..so rarely is it running correctly in cold months...so need to fix that...what else...I think that's about it for now...going to tear down tomorrow in prep for the new MAF...
#6872
Drifting
Removed auto trans pan, cleaned it, bent the tightening tabs up to original position (about 1/8th of an inch above the pan sealing surface), and cleaned the ATF reservoir. Came back later in the day and mounted a new gasket on the pan, and then for the first time used my new HF inch-pounds torque wrench to draw up the pan bolts to 50 inch pounds (a little over 4 ft pounds). Much better control and consistency than with a simple bar pointer type. Tomorrow I'll check with a mirror to see if the tabs are touching the trans case before torquing to 72 inch pounds (6 ft pounds).
#6873
Rennlist Member
Removed the PS window actuator and gave it a good cleaning. Best I could tell before cleaning, the entire assembly consisted of dried grease & grime. Nice to see it's actually built out of shiny aluminum. Same for the guide tube
Lithium grease will go on,felt guides checked and possibly recovered, tube, actuator and motor to get installed & calibrated per WSM. Clean-up electrical mess on the mirror wires (bad crimps) then wait for replacement panels from Classic9.
Also, boxed up and sent out Pod to Classic9 for recovering with red stitching to match the exterior. Still need to determine how to handle the bad cluster foil traces.
Lithium grease will go on,felt guides checked and possibly recovered, tube, actuator and motor to get installed & calibrated per WSM. Clean-up electrical mess on the mirror wires (bad crimps) then wait for replacement panels from Classic9.
Also, boxed up and sent out Pod to Classic9 for recovering with red stitching to match the exterior. Still need to determine how to handle the bad cluster foil traces.
#6874
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
- Replaced fuel pump relay which I think solved my starting then dying issue (more comprehensive test tomorrow),
- changed the fuel filter too since I was still running the original from when the Spyder project was completed, since it had been sitting for quite a while prior,
- replaced the clutch pedal bushings which I hope will solve the clutch hanging up then releasing abruptly problem, since one of them would **** and then not rotate freely,
- and changed all the taillight bulbs with proper ones from Mark & Tom to try and eliminate a tail lamp warning light I was getting whenever I'd turn on my parking or headlights, even though all the bulbs were illuminating.
#6876
Rennlist Member
Still trouble shooting Power Steering issue.
* Took rack out (had to cut off the nut on the tie rod because the rod would not drop. Tried heat and vibration. In the end I ended up beating it out of the control arm. It has only been installed a few months.)
* Took rack apart no evidence of fluid blockage.
* Reinstalled rack.
* took out the reservoir to clean and flush. ( it too is only a few months old)
* Found a plastic cap in the reservoir. Hopefully this is my issues.
* Took rack out (had to cut off the nut on the tie rod because the rod would not drop. Tried heat and vibration. In the end I ended up beating it out of the control arm. It has only been installed a few months.)
* Took rack apart no evidence of fluid blockage.
* Reinstalled rack.
* took out the reservoir to clean and flush. ( it too is only a few months old)
* Found a plastic cap in the reservoir. Hopefully this is my issues.
#6877
Rennlist Member
Just when I thought it was time to start putting pieces back in...
I've had a bit of a raccoon problem in my garage since we bought our house (every neighbor in the alley has stopped me to complain about them). The 1923 garage has huge overhangs and wooden soffits. I finally got what I think are the last entry points sealed up, so full steam ahead on the 928.
I'd had the hood off for a while, and there was quite a bit of raccoon crap behind the firewall. Not wanting the blower to suck any of that up, I figure with the engine out now's as good a time as any to strip out the HVAC box and do a thorough cleaning. I pulled the seats out, figuring that would make it easier to pull the dash.
Raccoon crap under the pass seat. Hopefully squirrel, since there's less chance of hideously dangerous worms, but nonetheless the entire interior is now coming out so I can more or less set fire to the bare metal inside to sterilize it.
I figure whatever it was got in through the firewall hole for the FI harness, since that's the only side there was, um, detritus under. Thank jeebus they didn't decide to eat anything inside (yet).
I've had a bit of a raccoon problem in my garage since we bought our house (every neighbor in the alley has stopped me to complain about them). The 1923 garage has huge overhangs and wooden soffits. I finally got what I think are the last entry points sealed up, so full steam ahead on the 928.
I'd had the hood off for a while, and there was quite a bit of raccoon crap behind the firewall. Not wanting the blower to suck any of that up, I figure with the engine out now's as good a time as any to strip out the HVAC box and do a thorough cleaning. I pulled the seats out, figuring that would make it easier to pull the dash.
Raccoon crap under the pass seat. Hopefully squirrel, since there's less chance of hideously dangerous worms, but nonetheless the entire interior is now coming out so I can more or less set fire to the bare metal inside to sterilize it.
I figure whatever it was got in through the firewall hole for the FI harness, since that's the only side there was, um, detritus under. Thank jeebus they didn't decide to eat anything inside (yet).
#6878
Rennlist Member
Put the steering system back together..
It works fine!!
It appears that the "extra" part that I got with my new filter was the culprit.
I was temporarily thinking that I was going to park this car and move on to my other project...
Onward and upward...should be driving in a week.
It works fine!!
It appears that the "extra" part that I got with my new filter was the culprit.
I was temporarily thinking that I was going to park this car and move on to my other project...
Onward and upward...should be driving in a week.
#6879
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Saco, Maine/ Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 1,961
Received 546 Likes
on
207 Posts
Weather turned nice (50's) yesterday so took a trip up to Maine to bring my Audi TT back to Mass. Cleaned up the TT's engine compartment a bit and also gave the GT a quick check as tomorrow it's supposed to be 60+ here in Boston area
Hopefully will get a chance to get both out for a quick ride.
Hopefully will get a chance to get both out for a quick ride.
#6880
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
- Replaced fuel pump relay which I think solved my starting then dying issue (more comprehensive test tomorrow),
- changed the fuel filter too since I was still running the original from when the Spyder project was completed, since it had been sitting for quite a while prior,
- replaced the clutch pedal bushings which I hope will solve the clutch hanging up then releasing abruptly problem, since one of them would **** and then not rotate freely,
- and changed all the taillight bulbs with proper ones from Mark & Tom to try and eliminate a tail lamp warning light I was getting whenever I'd turn on my parking or headlights, even though all the bulbs were illuminating.
#6881
Drifting
Just finishes going thru my CIS system on my '83 Euro, 'ZoomHilda'. Rebuilt my WUR, replaced my FD with a rebuilt one from 928Intl, and now I'm getting reasonable control & system pressures. One thing I noticed was that there was no 'O' ring under the F.D. The WSM shows an 'O' ring but there's no groove for one. An I missing something here? Maybe the lower plenum on my M28/11 engine doesn't have an 'O' ring there.
#6882
Instructor
Was off from work with my wife for the day. Being relatively nice in PA, I made arrangements to have the SI completed. I pulled the cover from winter hibernation and my '82 5-speed got some exercise. It was invigorating.
#6885
You can call me Otis
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
Posts: 6,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
...over the past seven days I have replaced the oxygen sensor, caps, rotors, plug wires, spark plugs, all intake boots, ATF reservoir and hoses, and thermostat with respective seals.
...,
...took her on a hard test drive, chirped the 9's when it hit 2nd, not bad for an auto.
...,
...took her on a hard test drive, chirped the 9's when it hit 2nd, not bad for an auto.
Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; 02-24-2017 at 12:36 AM.