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Congrats to the OP for making a great choice. Better get things fixed properly at the first time then dick around a bunch, spend loads of money then say goodbye to the car unhappy.
Yep, it might be 15-20k but if that is what it is worth it to you, why not?
The WORST you can do is doing things half and then be sorry afterwards. It ain't worth it IMHO.
Congrats to the OP for making a great choice. Better get things fixed properly at the first time then dick around a bunch, spend loads of money then say goodbye to the car unhappy.
Yep, it might be 15-20k but if that is what it is worth it to you, why not?
The WORST you can do is doing things half and then be sorry afterwards. It ain't worth it IMHO.
Volkert
Thanks man I couldn't agree with your statement more. It pretty much sums up my logic behind getting this engine rebuilt the correct way. Ill have years of worry free joy out of this vehicle after it returns, which is something not all 996 owners can say.
Here is a realated experience I had just today.
The OP's car had (?) 20-50 oil to conceal(?) an engine defect and then quickly started to fail.
Worked on an M96 today where the owner complained of a red oil pressure warning light. To 'fix' the light he did an oil change with 20-50 + some Bardahl "No Smoke" and maybe some other snake oil. The red light was still on .
I did a quick oil pressure test but noticed when I connected the gauge that there was no oil at the sensor - not a drop ! And of course zero pressure. When I disconnected the gauge from the cam cover, there was no oil on the fitting - not a drop ! Yikes - no oil to the cams and lifters for how many miles?
Removed the spin-on oil filter ,quick,very short burst on the starter - oil gushes - good.
Cut open the filter. The pleats are super clean BUT pleats had collapsedgot squished in a spiral. Caused by the thick oil ?
Dropped the pan - no debris
Removed the oil pump spring. The piston finally dropped out a few minutes later.Replaced with upgraded spring and piston(beveled edge).
Coated Pump piston with super slick assy lube and refitted. New filter,fresh 10-40 . Full pressure restored.No red light.
Moral of the story -
The 'treatment' in the OP's case 20-50 oil ,may have been worse than the original disease ?
In the case I have outlined a simple oil+filter change with the correct grade of oil(Summer in L.A.) would have probably solved the problem. It could not have made things worse.
So for the OP - it may be interesting to ask Jake what the pleats look like?
BTW - the Longacre filter cutter cost $66 - useful investment.
I mention this because it is an easy fix and the cut open filter is a useful show&tell.
Good luck with your project
Removed the spin-on oil filter ,quick,very short burst on the starter - oil gushes - good.
Cut open the filter. The pleats are super clean BUT pleats had collapsedgot squished in a spiral. Caused by the thick oil ?
What type of spin on filter was it?
Could they have used the filter for too many miles causing it to collapse?
NAPA . Age is unknown but it the pleats were brown(not blackened) and oil was clean. We'll be checking it again soon in case there is some problem with the oil pump creating way too much pressure.But how/why? My hunch is that with the correct oil and no thickeners it will be fine. Fortunately testing oil pressure is a quick and easy job on an M96 .
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 05-04-2017 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: correction
I did not check but I think WIX . Age is unknown but it the pleats were brown(not blackened) and oil was clean. We'll be checking it again soon in case there is some problem with the oil pump creating way too much pressure.But how/why? My hunch is that with the correct oil and no thickeners it will be fine. Fortunately testing oil pressure is a quick and easy job on an M96 .
Slightly concerning that it failed, I have a Nappa Gold on mine (which I thought were made by WIX).
The M96 ain't no older engine ! It will bite you hard every time you ignore that.
Ultra high pressure because of the high viscosity + a manufacturing defect ? Center tube must have collapsed. There is also a pressure relief valve in the oil pump. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...SpAp9WMzldazX5
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 05-02-2017 at 01:23 PM.
Filters do crush.. Because they are low quality, generally.
Older cars run 20/50 with luck because they have more open internal clearances. Sometimes these clearances are 2-3X more "open" than a modern engine thats designed to operate with light oil.
My wife and I spent over $10,000 to keep a cat alive for a few more years. A new cat cost $75. I guess we loved the cat.
while many here will say a bullet is cheaper, they've never got to love an animal like you (or your wife) have. that in itself is a shame. nothing wrong with dropping that kind of coin on something you love.
That's absolutely true. However, I would rather euthanize a pet than have it live in prolonged agony because I'm unwilling to cope with its death. If an intrusive procedure has a 90% success rate and will prolong life by years, absolutely. If it's a long shot or if it's just delaying an inevitable hard decision, I'd rather help one old friend go on home and then go find a new friend who needs a home...
Life is simpler if the guy watching your cat is a retired Navy Chief with zero tolerance for crap. Love the guy. Here's the note I left him when he watched the cat while Ms. Schnell and I took a trip a few years back.
I realize a 9mm is overkill for a cat, but the Chief is probably going to double-tap anyway, so he's welcome to blast away with whatever he sees fit.
As a recently-converted dog person, I will admit that I would spend more to keep my dog alive than my cat. We have always had a $1K cut-off for the cat; if it's gonna cost more than a grand and/or the cat's going to suffer, there are plenty of cats that aren't dying who need homes. But Pee Pee Eye enjoys life so much, I admit I don't know what the limit would be. Hope I never have to find out.
05-01-2017, 03:03 AM
