My 964 C2 Transformation Build Thread
#437
Rennlist Member
What is the Shift box plate for? I thought the 91's had the updated box all you need to do is flip the bushings.
#438
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think so. He makes a 1 7/8 for bigger motors. These are for 3.6-3.8.
Template for cutting tunnel if needed. Some 91 have the older style and we weren't sure so he sent the template with a pair of the oval bushings for the rod.
Template for cutting tunnel if needed. Some 91 have the older style and we weren't sure so he sent the template with a pair of the oval bushings for the rod.
#439
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Few things done today:
Installed RE10 brake pads - these are race technologies endurance race pad - i need more bite for track days. The calipers are easy to swap pads in, fronts need to pull caliper, but rears do while mounted on car. Will bed in a little while
Did a brake bleed
Tested my ABS system with the C2 ABS system tested made here by member cajonfan. All system parameters check out, but my pump is not 'releasing' once it 'engages' a wheel, on all channels. Have a few questions out to him but pretty sure this means the pump is farked. :-(
Installed RE10 brake pads - these are race technologies endurance race pad - i need more bite for track days. The calipers are easy to swap pads in, fronts need to pull caliper, but rears do while mounted on car. Will bed in a little while
Did a brake bleed
Tested my ABS system with the C2 ABS system tested made here by member cajonfan. All system parameters check out, but my pump is not 'releasing' once it 'engages' a wheel, on all channels. Have a few questions out to him but pretty sure this means the pump is farked. :-(
Last edited by Spyerx; 03-20-2016 at 12:21 PM.
#440
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bedded re10 pads last night. Holy crap this is the stopping power I'm used to. Yes they get some squeal when not up to temps.... But man they stop and modulate well. Brake pedal feel, stopping power, and modulation feels like my RS now :-). Wife was with me as we were on way to dinner. She'd not really experienced threshold braking before and well was.... Impressed? Hahahaha
Braking at max tire traction the car just stops insane and is dead stable. Good news with abs non or partially functioning and is my bias is good. Fronts will lockup first. So bias feels good. But I can control it well for track use. But need to get that abs working for non planned braking events.
Braking at max tire traction the car just stops insane and is dead stable. Good news with abs non or partially functioning and is my bias is good. Fronts will lockup first. So bias feels good. But I can control it well for track use. But need to get that abs working for non planned braking events.
#441
Bedded re10 pads last night. Holy crap this is the stopping power I'm used to. Yes they get some squeal when not up to temps.... But man they stop and modulate well. Brake pedal feel, stopping power, and modulation feels like my RS now :-). Wife was with me as we were on way to dinner. She'd not really experienced threshold braking before and well was.... Impressed? Hahahaha
Braking at max tire traction the car just stops insane and is dead stable. Good news with abs non or partially functioning and is my bias is good. Fronts will lockup first. So bias feels good. But I can control it well for track use. But need to get that abs working for non planned braking events.
Braking at max tire traction the car just stops insane and is dead stable. Good news with abs non or partially functioning and is my bias is good. Fronts will lockup first. So bias feels good. But I can control it well for track use. But need to get that abs working for non planned braking events.
#442
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#443
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Have a couple track days coming up that I'll drive this car at. Needed some support until I get the rest of the safety equipment in. These offer much better support than the factory seats (yeah I know they don't look as cool). Driver side only for now.
Thanks to Bill verburg for the pics of your installs. Finding the right hardware and lengths seems half the battle. Not hard just a pain. The rs lap belt mount is key. I found hardened grade 8 thick 3mm washers at the hardware store that worked perfectly as spacers. Rest of hardware is grade 12 metric.
Thanks to Bill verburg for the pics of your installs. Finding the right hardware and lengths seems half the battle. Not hard just a pain. The rs lap belt mount is key. I found hardened grade 8 thick 3mm washers at the hardware store that worked perfectly as spacers. Rest of hardware is grade 12 metric.
#445
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
**note that pole positions now come with uprights in steel** I had a pair in my garage and some uprights, and needed to get sliders.
My setup:
--Pair of recaro pole position seats
--Recaro dual locking sliders for porsche 911
--Recaro aluminum universal side mount uprights for pole position (wide seats)
--Qty 2 RS seat belt adapter
I only had to enlarge a few holes. on the sliders and the side mount uprights
This is the hardware - note I mounted "nuts on top" of the side mounts vs. "nuts in the slider rail" The latter is a little cleaner, but with way I did allows a good amount of thread engagement on the lock nuts. Washers on top and bottom of all bolts. Seat rails to car I changed to grade 12 button heads.
Hardware list (all should be grade 8 standard or grade 10+ metric):
--M8x22mm 1.25 pitch Hex head x 8
--M8x20mm 1.25 pitch button head x12
--M8x25mm 1.25 pitch button head x16
--M8 1.25 pitch nylock hex locknuts x 16
--1/4" grade 8 flat washers. 1.5mm thick, 18mm diameter x 40
--3mm thick grade 8 washer - I think the hole is 5/16 (need to verify this - these go under the side mounts for spacers for the RS seat belt holder - x 12
My setup:
--Pair of recaro pole position seats
--Recaro dual locking sliders for porsche 911
--Recaro aluminum universal side mount uprights for pole position (wide seats)
--Qty 2 RS seat belt adapter
I only had to enlarge a few holes. on the sliders and the side mount uprights
This is the hardware - note I mounted "nuts on top" of the side mounts vs. "nuts in the slider rail" The latter is a little cleaner, but with way I did allows a good amount of thread engagement on the lock nuts. Washers on top and bottom of all bolts. Seat rails to car I changed to grade 12 button heads.
Hardware list (all should be grade 8 standard or grade 10+ metric):
--M8x22mm 1.25 pitch Hex head x 8
--M8x20mm 1.25 pitch button head x12
--M8x25mm 1.25 pitch button head x16
--M8 1.25 pitch nylock hex locknuts x 16
--1/4" grade 8 flat washers. 1.5mm thick, 18mm diameter x 40
--3mm thick grade 8 washer - I think the hole is 5/16 (need to verify this - these go under the side mounts for spacers for the RS seat belt holder - x 12
Last edited by Spyerx; 03-20-2016 at 11:03 PM.
#446
Nordschleife Master
You're using manual sliders off the stock seats?
EDIT: just saw you said you're using Recaro sliders. Bill V tells me that the stock manual sliders work, so I'm gonna try that route first.
EDIT: just saw you said you're using Recaro sliders. Bill V tells me that the stock manual sliders work, so I'm gonna try that route first.
#447
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#448
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, my OCD got the best of me with my seat mounting. First, the side mounts I'm using are borrowed from the shop, i have a new set that will be installed with the rest of the interior. The sliders are mine.
I wasn't really happy with the hardware I sourced locally so I went to McMaster carr and went shopping. What a candy store...
I wanted to use grade 12 metric hardware with zinc coatings, grade 10 washers/nuts, and also to install my sub bar which I hadn't installed over the weekend. I was also able to use cap screws on the slider to upright mount vs button heads, which are much stronger bolts.
Here are a few more hardware details for those wanting to do this on your own:
I wasn't really happy with the hardware I sourced locally so I went to McMaster carr and went shopping. What a candy store...
I wanted to use grade 12 metric hardware with zinc coatings, grade 10 washers/nuts, and also to install my sub bar which I hadn't installed over the weekend. I was also able to use cap screws on the slider to upright mount vs button heads, which are much stronger bolts.
Here are a few more hardware details for those wanting to do this on your own:
- 2 sets Recaro 911 dual locking sliders
- 2 sets Recaro aluminum side mounts
- 2 Recaro pole position seats
- 2 Brey Krause sub mount bars
- 2 RS seat belt mount adapters
- Bolts sliders to the chassis - Zinc-Plated Class 12.9 Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M8 Thread, 20 mm Long - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Bolts slider to side mount - Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M8 Thread, 25 mm Long - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Nuts for slider to side mount - Zinc-Plated Class 10 Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, M8X1.25 Thread Size, 13MM Wide, 8MM High - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Washers for all - Steel Flat Washer, Class 10.9, Zinc-Plated, M8 Screw Size, 8.4MM ID, 16.0MM OD - Qty about 44
- For seat to upright. You need to check this and ensure you have full engagement of the bolt in the seat 22mm is perfect for mine - Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Alloy Steel, M8 Thread, 22MM Length, 1.25MM Pitch
- Grade 8, 3mm thick flange washer - for a spacer in 1 area to space for the RS seat belt mount / sub bar. Qty 4 2 per seat - these I found at the local hardware store
#449
Rennlist Member
Ok, my OCD got the best of me with my seat mounting. First, the side mounts I'm using are borrowed from the shop, i have a new set that will be installed with the rest of the interior. The sliders are mine.
I wasn't really happy with the hardware I sourced locally so I went to McMaster carr and went shopping. What a candy store...
I wanted to use grade 12 metric hardware with zinc coatings, grade 10 washers/nuts, and also to install my sub bar which I hadn't installed over the weekend. I was also able to use cap screws on the slider to upright mount vs button heads, which are much stronger bolts.
Here are a few more hardware details for those wanting to do this on your own:
I wasn't really happy with the hardware I sourced locally so I went to McMaster carr and went shopping. What a candy store...
I wanted to use grade 12 metric hardware with zinc coatings, grade 10 washers/nuts, and also to install my sub bar which I hadn't installed over the weekend. I was also able to use cap screws on the slider to upright mount vs button heads, which are much stronger bolts.
Here are a few more hardware details for those wanting to do this on your own:
- 2 sets Recaro 911 dual locking sliders
- 2 sets Recaro aluminum side mounts
- 2 Recaro pole position seats
- 2 Brey Krause sub mount bars
- 2 RS seat belt mount adapters
- Bolts sliders to the chassis - Zinc-Plated Class 12.9 Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M8 Thread, 20 mm Long - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Bolts slider to side mount - Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, M8 Thread, 25 mm Long - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Nuts for slider to side mount - Zinc-Plated Class 10 Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, M8X1.25 Thread Size, 13MM Wide, 8MM High - Qty 16, 8 per seat
- Washers for all - Steel Flat Washer, Class 10.9, Zinc-Plated, M8 Screw Size, 8.4MM ID, 16.0MM OD - Qty about 44
- For seat to upright. You need to check this and ensure you have full engagement of the bolt in the seat 22mm is perfect for mine - Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Alloy Steel, M8 Thread, 22MM Length, 1.25MM Pitch
- Grade 8, 3mm thick flange washer - for a spacer in 1 area to space for the RS seat belt mount / sub bar. Qty 4 2 per seat - these I found at the local hardware store
#450
Rennlist Member