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My garage only has 1 120v circuit on it until I installed my EV charger.
when it blows, I lose lights, 2 post lift, central vac, garage door openners, compressor, shopvac etc.
I've lucked out that wife hasnt started the central vac while I was operating the lift., although hydraulically, i believe it would not fall down if the pump lost pressure.
My garage only has 1 120v circuit on it until I installed my EV charger.
when it blows, I lose lights, 2 post lift, central vac, garage door openners, compressor, shopvac etc.
I've lucked out that wife hasnt started the central vac while I was operating the lift., although hydraulically, i believe it would not fall down if the pump lost pressure.
My 2 cents worth...
I believe the 110 volt motors are rated at 15 amps and, most likely, so is the breaker. As a result, tripping it is not uncommon. Some folks switch the breaker to a higher amperage. This is certainly safe to do so if the wiring is 12 AWG.
It's impossible to beat the convenience of a drive-on, drive-off lift but, I always found the 'use your own' hydraulic jack almost impossible to negotiate and more often than not, the support that slides between the two horizontal pieces is in the way for doing wheel work, etc. Getting the option of a built in jack wasn't much better imho.
Space not being an issue, I ended up selling my four post lift and opting for a two post affair. I'm glad I did. However, the installation and operation were not without issue. The manual said to drill a 1" hole for the provided 3/4" bolts. I had my doubts but did as the manufacturer instructed. Yup, they spun. I purchased 7/8ths bolts and after reaming out the holes in the floor plate, ended up with a great fit. The other concern is leaving the source of power connected. Checking later, the manual said to disconnect the power if the lift is not being used regularly. Naturally, I had not been doing this and so a start-up produced a burnt contactor. It turned out that the operating capacitor was dead. Lessons learned.
My garage only has 1 120v circuit on it until I installed my EV charger.
when it blows, I lose lights, 2 post lift, central vac, garage door openners, compressor, shopvac etc.
I've lucked out that wife hasnt started the central vac while I was operating the lift., although hydraulically, i believe it would not fall down if the pump lost pressure.
Nobody taking the bait on the wife vacuuming line or have we all become too PC along the way :-)
So ... next question. Having the Direct Lift installed, ramps look like they'll be super slippery come winter time. What have folks used to create some traction? Anti slip tape I guess?
Edit...bought a roll of this stuff which I assume should help.
Lift is installed, told the guys to hold off bolting to the ground until I've had a couple weeks of experience to see if I want to shift them over for any reason I haven't thought of.
Man, those ramps are way heavier than I thought they'd be. Hard to believe no one has knocked off the Race Ramp product yet, $600+ seems quite ridiculous IMO! But sure would be nice to use super light ramps.
Admittedly, I didn't expect to be THAT slow to get all the way to the top! Also going to have to figure out something to protect the rear hatch on the SUV's, as I'm certain someone will accidentally raise it without thinking and it will hit the bottom of the lift.
Yep, I've done that accidentally a couple of times with my Macan. Surprisingly, no damage as the rear wiper arm ended up being the contact point.
I had Race Ramps in the past and they are amazing! I agree, the price is crazy right now, but they hold their value well should you wish to sell them one day. They are also so light that you can easily hang them on the wall in front of the lift, so they are never in the way. If you plan on keeping your lift for 10 years, I'd say they are worth buying just for the ease of storage and moving them around. I can't use them on my current lift because I had to shim it pretty badly on one side due to my sloped floor.
Admittedly, I didn't expect to be THAT slow to get all the way to the top! Also going to have to figure out something to protect the rear hatch on the SUV's, as I'm certain someone will accidentally raise it without thinking and it will hit the bottom of the lift.
I installed foam hot water line insulation tubes all around my lift. Saves my head as well as the Audi A3 hatch.
They are split so very easy to place on without glue or tape.
I installed foam hot water line insulation tubes all around my lift. Saves my head as well as the Audi A3 hatch.
They are split so very easy to place on without glue or tape.
Good idea, I was going to put some foam tape on the bottom, but this would work well for the edges.
Admittedly, I didn't expect to be THAT slow to get all the way to the top! Also going to have to figure out something to protect the rear hatch on the SUV's, as I'm certain someone will accidentally raise it without thinking and it will hit the bottom of the lift.
Easiest way to do that is to set the opening height with the Tesla. Open the hatch to the height you want it to be at and then hold the button down until it beeps. It might also be worth getting a thin foam strip and glue it to the bottom of the rail so if it does contact, it's at least not steel to glass.
Easiest way to do that is to set the opening height with the Tesla. Open the hatch to the height you want it to be at and then hold the button down until it beeps. It might also be worth getting a thin foam strip and glue it to the bottom of the rail so if it does contact, it's at least not steel to glass.
Did that, but even with the 80" or whatever of height under the lift, the hatch/trunk doesn't even open enough for my wife to not have to duck quite a bit to put things in the back, and she's 5' tall! Definitely going to put the foam tape/etc.
09-14-2023, 04:27 AM
