shahrukh_bakar

Such a great thread. A couple questions for my 2018 GT3, which had XPEL Ultimate PPF applied to the whole car when new. I drive 3500 km a year, always garaged, never in the sun.

1) I use Meguiar’s Ultimate Wash N Wax with a wash mitt and 2 bucket method then I use Meguiar’s Ultimate Quik Detailer to give the PPF a hydrophobic covering but it seems to wear off within a few weeks. Is it better to apply PPF sealant rather than Quik Detailer after washing?

2) Although most of the PPF is in great condition, the ‘hips’ in front of the rear wheels feels rough to feel, is this permanent damage from stones hitting PPF? Can anything be done to smooth the PPF?

3) Can ceramic coating be applied to PPF that is a couple years old? Does it need machine polishing first? Any downside to applying ceramic coating to PPF?

4) Is there any downside to leaving PPF on the car for several years? Should it be taken off eventually after a few years?

5) XPEL sealant vs some other PPF sealant? I’m having trouble finding XPEL sealant.

6) Can I drop by your shop to have a look?

Many thanks!

SNB

THE REFINERY

Thanks for the comments about the thread, and for these really great questions!

While a Quick Detailer will provide some slick feeling, hydrophobic properties - that's not really its purpose. It's purpose is to provide a glossy, streak free finish. It is not a great protectant. You're better off using a proper wax/sealant or ceramic coating. It doesn't technically need to be a "PPF sealant" - although those are good too. If not doing ceramic coating, we like using something like Carpro RELOAD as a stand-alone sealant. Easy to apply, and decent longevity.

Not really. If it feels rough to the touch, it means the PPF surface is scuffed up. It's probably still providing decent protection, it's just cosmetically imperfect. You could do a light polish on that area to remove some of the minor impact marks and staining - but it won't fix the texture issues.

FWIW - we often install replicas of the OEM "shark fin" fender flare protectors OVER the PPF-covered panel to avoid exactly this issue. That second layer of PPF will catch 70% of stone impacts in that area, and they're much less expensive to remove and replace than the whole rear quarter panel.

Yes, you can apply ceramic coating later. It's not our preference, but better than never.

Yes, you can do a light polishing on PPF to restore some of the gloss if you think it's lost some of its shine.

No, no downside. Ceramic coating is the most robust "last step" protectant available, and makes maintenance cleaning much easier - whether on PPF or clear coat finishes. It is the best protection against staining, water spotting, bird droppings, and oxidation.

There's no "schedule" for removal of PPF. Generally, once you feel that the finish of the PPF has stopped looking good - or is sandblasted/scuffed from use, then you can replace the affected panels. PPF gets tougher to remove after 6-7yrs, but that's mostly an issue for the poor soul removing it ;o)

It doesn't have to be XPEL brand. Again, the more important thing for us is to avoid those pasty/creamy waxes that leave chalky/dusty residue behind. Products like Carpro RELOAD go on and off without residue.

Of course! We're open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. We'd be happy to answer any questions, and we have all the products we use at THE REFINERY for sale in store or online.

9 lives

good morning and thanks so for with all your help in the DIY detailing area...

2 questions:
i recently bought some new to me rims, but the barrels are CAKED in brake dust, grime, loose asphalt, etc. After numerous washes using an old mitt, spray on rim cleaner and soap, there really seems to be an issue getting the cake softened up enough to wash off. The spray on rim cleaner seems to dry too fast to really be effective and the soap only seems to get at the surface. Short of soaking the rims in a tub, is there a thicker cleaner (not vim, but something of the sort) that will stay on long enough to soften the dirt or should i think about just heading to the spray wash and using the high pressure spray wand to attack it ?

and...upon reviewing some of my supplies, it seems like some of the products my have changed consistencies. Do these car cleaning products have a shelf life or, after a good shake, can they be considered safe to use ? In some cases it seems like the oils/chemicals have separated and I'd hate to have a science experiment take place in my interior or on my paint surface.

thanks

THE REFINERY

For the wheels, use a high-quality wheel cleaning product like SONAX Wheel Cleaner. It is pH neutral and safe for the painted finish, but has iron-dissolving chemicals in it (turns purple as it dissolves them so you know how much contamination is still there) and is formulated to be thicker than typical soaps/cleaners so it can dwell longer on those surfaces. A bit of agitation will help get things clean before rinsing off. If the paint is still stained once the brake dust is off, you can also polish the inner barrels of the wheels to try to restore some gloss and remove staining.

This is also why we strongly recommend applying a ceramic coating as early as possible on wheels. It does an excellent job of preventing brake dust from etching into the wheel paint finish, so you can wash the wheels easier and keep them looking great.

Many products will separate if left sitting for extended periods of time. Most are fine if you shake them to remix them. I've really only had issues with polishes and sealants that separated and settled too much to remix the ingredients back together.

HTH!

shahrukh_bakar

Thanks for the reply to my questions above. Very helpful. Some follow up questions:

1) Since my PPF has no ceramic coating or real wax or sealant protection on it right now, after a maintenance wash should I also decontaminate with clay bar or is it safe to go straight to CarPro Reload if the PPF finish is already very smooth to touch?

2) It sounds like CarPro Reload sealant can be re-sealed every so often but does this eliminate the need for waxing?

3) Can a ceramic coating be applied after CarPro Reload has been used? Does Reload have to be removed before a ceramic coating is applied?

4) How much does it cost to ceramic coat a 991.2 GT3 with full XPEL Ultimate?

I’m trying to figure out the best order for things since I want to maintenance wash now and get some protection on now but may be interested in ceramic coating in a month or so.

THE REFINERY

Clay should only be used if you have debris stuck on the surface that isn't coming off with washing or chemical decontamination (ie using detergents and other chemicals). Typically, clay should be followed by polishing because it will leave swirl marks and scuffing behind.

Right - if it is clean, you can apply RELOAD.

Wax and sealant do the same thing. Wax is a naturally derived product, "sealant" is a synthetic version of wax.

Yes, you can apply ceramic coating at a later point in time. In the meantime, continue using wax/sealant. Part of the preparation for ceramic coating is to remove existing wax/sealant prior to application.

Send us an email at appointments@therefinery.ltd and we can reply with some ceramic coating package options and pricing.

IXLR8

How do you treat the Black Leather interior with Rhodium Silver stitching without changing the color of the stitching and long term durability of the stitching?

THE REFINERY

Hi Alex - try using "pure" leather cleaners like Leather Master Strong Cleaner or GYEON Leather Cleaner which don't have conditioning agents in the cleaner product that could leave a residue on the light-colored fabric stitching. Even if you get these cleaners on the stitching, it's going to act as a cleaner without leaving an oily or sticky conditioner behind. For example, I wouldn't suggest using a product like Leatherique if you're really concerned about staining/altering light colored stitching.

In terms of process, try to go lightly on the stitched areas. If you're using a leather brush or a MF towel to agitate and wipe off your leather cleaner, just remember to resist the urge to scrub the stitching. You can dab and wipe the stitching safely, but a grinding scrubbing motion will eventually fray the thread (and the leather surface!).

HTH!

IXLR8

I should have been more specific. I am not looking for a cleaner, but something to preserve the leather from drying up over time and that happens when it gets old and experiences heat.

My 2015 991 is basically a new car with practically no mileage. It is parked indoors and out of the sun, so the only time it sees sun is on a sunny day on some backroads. Neither of my 911s are daily drivers.

The only time I have used Leatherique that you mentioned is on the mint hard-back sport seats on my 993. Following the instructions, the leather on the seats got noticeably softer after a few days. I would assume that would prevent the leather from cracking in time.

THE REFINERY

My favorite leather "maintenance" products are the Leather Master system: Strong Cleaner, Leather Vital (conditioner), Protection Cream (protectant). It's very mild, so can be used frequently and doesn't "build up" (scent or texture) like some other leather cleaners and conditioners do. Try Vital as a conditioner to help keep it in great shape over time. The Protection Cream is probably not necessary based on the needs you're describing.

I loved these products on my Audi's silk nappa leather.

THE REFINERY

For anyone looking to restore faded or chalky looking exterior textured plastic, we have Gyeon TRIM ceramic coating in stock in-store and online. It does a fantastic job of making weathered plastic look new again, and it won't wash off during your wash routine like a typical rubber/vinyl/plastic dressing will

Biscuits704

Any strategies for repairing PPF chips? I have an area - probably half a cm, where the PPF is damaged and is like a flap of loose skin.

Googling found this thread which shows/describes my issue perfectly:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/thre...irable.143944/

One suggestion there is to use a tiny amount of clear nail polish as an adhesive and press the flap back into place, wiping off excess.
I'll likely give this a try, but thought I'd ask the professionals if there's any better/alternative option to consider first.

Thanks!

THE REFINERY

It sounds like the PPF has done its job of protecting the paint surface from the impact that ripped the PPF.

The best solution is to replace the damaged PPF. I would NOT recommend applying nail polish or any other adhesive to patch the PPF. Why intentionally damage your paint if you've gone to the effort of using PPF to protect it in the first place?

PPF is meant to absorb damage and to be replaced when it has been damaged to the point that it is either unsightly, or is no longer offering protection (because sections have been torn off or shredded.

Your PPF is not as valuable as your paint. Prioritize your paint.

lowbee

Does the Refinery offer any windshield PPF like STEK Dynoflex or Alchemy ExoShield ?

THE REFINERY

Not yet, but we expect to soon. Do you prefer one of these brands/products vs the other?