mark kibort

ive been certified. +/- 5% on the manual torquing. i can also run 10 times 150m and be within 2% of a target time.... been doing that for 30 years.
never underestimate the power of the HUMAN. we can be trained to do a lot more complicated things, than just tighten a lug nut within 5% of 90ftlbs.

9 year old tires... just ran them... no problems
cracked rotors..... replaced them... no propogation over the season, but new rotors are on now.
undertorqued lugs...... within 5% of spec... also using steel lug nuts, so you tell me if thats more of a safety margin or less vs the stock aluminum...... oh, you might have to think about that one mikey!

what do you think? spec was written for aluminum lug nuts, but all the genius' here only know what they read and wont (actually refuse) to use their heads.
YES, when the material changes the entire model changes.
I would suggest , if you get the wheels very hot to remove the lugs when hot... they seem to come off easier and donl't stick as much. safer for reducing the chance of damaging threads or wheels.
I usually just electric drill wrench the lugs snug.. light hand tighten with a wrench to make sure wheel stays centered and is seated, then lower the car and tighten the lugs to "near" spec on the ground

DTMiller

..

TXE36

Except you don't know that because you are too cheap to spend $20 on a HF torque wrench. And don't even start about your human calibration being more repeatable than a cheap Chinese torque wrench.

-Mike

Aspen Autosports

I apologize to the OP for taking this thread off topic. All I wanted to do was ensure that everyone is safe and has the correct information.

Mark, if you want to talk about wheel torque start your own thread. Do not hijack the OP's thread.

It is amazing how a simple correction in a torque value can turn into 2 pages of debate...

mark kibort

what you cant accept the obvious... if you do it a lot... as i do, you can see this is an easy task. and yes, its about as accurate as a cheap cheezy torque wrench.

Now, I do have a wrench. unlike you and others here that get so caught up in the little things....like (do you really think 5% variance in wheel lug is a discussion or reason to tee off on someone? take an engineering class, on line or something. get a reality check.... its silly ... and only a reason for you to go nuts on line.
now, you make another dangerous assumption. i dont own a torque wrench. well, how do you think i build all those engines that stay together for so long?? i dont guess with them. i have a calibrated torque wrench for those things in life that really matter to be better than 5% off.... (e.g. torquing heads, rod nuts , transmission components, etc)

You still think that the screen wire sizes equates to smalller diameter inlets and drive around with your open cooling ducts, with rotors packed with rubber gue.......... you dont see parts on my car clogged up with anything. Mike, you have to start using your head here!
Put some course screens on the inlets... trust me.. you will be ok!!

mark kibort

Aspen Rep, you are not the discussion police board. I only offered a very safe torque that was 5% lower than spec. let's not boil the oceans trying to prove that this is dangerous. You had us at your correction of the spec being 130Nm and 96 ftlbs, (which is really 95.8).
You started a lug nut tightening discussion and all you needed to do was say, the spec is 96ftlbs . the disucssion where you suddenly think 5ftlbs, or 5% is going to endager someones life is a little unwarranted and incorrect. this is YOUR discussion diversion. 5% is a perfectly good limit for range of steel studs and nut assortments anyone could use .
I think ive contributed more than my fairshare here about the rotors and his rotor vibration... I also think the OP is appreciative for my advice. and im sure he is equally appreciative to put that 5ft-lbs you suggested, back on the torquing on the wheels so they dont fall off.

mark kibort

'
I think you should focus on your own backyard.. How many miatas lose wheels during races? (ive seen quite a few) key point here, they ain't coming off the studs. the wheels bust or they lose entire hubs.

Aspen Autosports

You are right I am not the discussion police board but I can voice my opinion as to what I feel is the best to keep other RL members on topic. Members use this forum as a source of information and it makes it very difficult for people to continue to use and enjoy the forum when every topic gets taken off on a tangent.

In my 1st post all I did was assumed you had a typo and I stated the correct torque spec, I moved on from that and I gave recommendations as to what rotors I have had lots of success with over the years.

Then you came back at me and started this argument. Porsche has come up with the spec of 130 Nm (95.88307940601 ftlbs) for a reason. Just like they now have the spec of 160 Nm (118.00994388432001 ftlbs) for some newer cars or the Cayenne's.

Would you be able to sleep at night if someone listened to you and had an on track incident taking someone or multiple peoples lives?

mark kibort

your right... i know you didnt have the malicious intent as our other "friends" here. i was lumping you with them.. yes, it was basically a typo..... (memory) however, i do believe that 5% is a fine range of control for this spec and i dont think there is a significant probability that it could be a problem. but in the essence of being correct here... you are correct! 95.8ft-lbs. thats where the torque wench should be set.
AND, make sure that someone or you (the car driver) not only makes sure the torque is at a minimum............ but make sure they are all even. torqued up to 96ft-lbs. those air guns can often over torque one or two nuts and cause the problem that the OP had.

And ive been here to promote things that can save lives or peoples lives....Advising against the guy(s) that promote putting the car in neutral,(instead of blip downshifting) when they lose bakes so they can crash out the track gates on to public hyways..... for example.

Slakker

Stoptech slotted ordered for rear, DTC-70 ordered for all four corners for track days only. Hopefully I can get them bedded properly on the new rotor which sounds like it may be a challenge.

And yes, all input has been greatly appreciated.

TXE36

If you have a wrench, why are you suggesting you can just do it by hand? And, for the record, I've never questioned the quantity of torque, just how you are measuring it, or rather, not measuring it.

And to save typing as it's still close enough to fit here:

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call the Kibort Zone.

Above obviously stolen from the opening narration to The Twilight Zone.

-Mike

Aspen Autosports

Nothing wrong with Stoptech. We have used these on a few of the SPB's. You will be happy with the slotted rotors as they do not tend to crack as much.

You will probably see heat cracks develop on the surface of the rotors but it isn't much to be worried about. If you have any concerns based on the size, length, or location of the crack feel free to post it or send me a picture in PM.

As others have mentioned keep the car as stock as possible and get the seat time. When I say stock I mean caliper size and such. Absolutely perform the safety upgrades and items that will increase the longevity of your car. I have seen you post in other threads such as the oil pan, that is absolutely a must have for a track car. Good luck and if you need anything feel free to reach out.

Veloce Raptor

Markie Mark, is not that you know nothing.
It's more than you know so much that simply is not true .

As others have said here and in every other thread Mark is in, FOLLOW HIS ADVICE AT YOUR OWN MORTAL PERIL.

Mark, STFU before you get someone hurt or killed.

mark kibort

chicken little .... please go to school and at least get an associate degree. not so much for the knowledge, but learning the ability to learn.
5% variance on torquing a bolt is plenty safe by any logical measure

YOU are the one trying to kill people , endorsing the circus driving act of not downshifting in an emergency, let alone taking it out of drive. this is the stuff that really can hurt someone. You better re-evaluate your logic and the forces of nature. You dont seem to have a grasp, nor should you be advising or correcting anyone that does!
So, my big mouthed friend.. it is you that can STFU!

Veloce Raptor

Great comeback