Slakker

Just checked the lug nuts and sure enough they were inconsistent and under torqued. Had the tires balanced the day before and should have asked to watch them put the lugs on. Great call, hopefully this fixes it.

I do like the EBC pads so far. They are great for DD and felt pretty good on the track. Do you think if I went EBC Yellow up front and stayed Red in the rear that I would be alright for awhile?

Also, thoughts on rear rotors of Centric (stop-tech slotted) vs Sebco vs Coleman 2 piece? Or does it even matter that much? I plan on doing a big brake upgrade at some point but that will be a year or two down the road.

All recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!

mark kibort

I hope that solves it.. it make sense why it would, and ive experienced a HUGE vibration at the track while getting the rotors very hot in a racing environment. 40ftlb difference between lugs, and when all were brought to 90ft-lbs, i went out it vibrated hot for a bit and then went perfectly smooth. i think that it was the problem.

i wouldnt worry about the yellow and red mix . keep in mind the rear brakes dont do much so the most important pad is going to be on the front. sometimes folks will increase rear bias by using a grippier pad or one that has a higher friction coefficient at lower temps, because they dont get as hot in the rear. generally, on a threshold stop, you dont get more than 25% of the stopping force from the rear.

colemans are less expensive and work well.. havent heard much good about sebro.. stoptech, brembo, or AP seems to be the gold standard. im testing out racing brakes .com this season. so far so good, but my hats with their rotors might be an problem with cracking. ill report later this season.

noturavgm

Can't say I've ever heard much bad about Sebro. Ran them up front for a bit; no issues.

Rotors are consumable. Buy the least expensive ones that function up to par.

mark kibort

I dont have any experiece with them. only brembo, racingbrakes.com, zimmerman and porsche OE. great luck with zimmerman.. seem to be built much stronger than the other OEM brake manufacturers rotors but again, i cant comment on sebro. actually, have used them on street cars , but not racing. fine on the street.

JayG

no really good reason to mix reds and yellows and the cost difference between the two is not that much
I ran with Reds for a bit on and off the track and I like the Yellows better

Slakker

Ok, saw a buddy was selling his Hoosiers and track wheels on Craigslist today and I snagged them cheap. This kind of changes everything in that if I'm going to change tires for events I might as well change pads. I really like the Reds for low dust, great performance DD. So thinking about going with Hawk DTC-70 for track pads.

Going to try and keep the front rotors (hopefully it was lugs or pads) and see how they do. Will replace the rears with slotted or zimmerman's.

Frank 993 C4S

Suggest you get yourself a torque wrench and check your lug nuts each morning at the event. I would never trust anybody else doing it since your life could depend on It.

Slakker

Lesson learned. The large chain tire shop has always done great work for me and I figured it would get double checked when the car got tech'd(it didn't). Rookie mistake, lucky it only cost me a few laps and nothing more. My wrench only went up to 80lbs so new one is already ordered.

dgm8138

Sorry to interject a bit off topic here, but maybe it would be a good idea to store your newly acquired Hoosiers and get some more seat time on a set of nice street tires? You sound a bit green and Hoosiers are great at inhibiting learning progress.

Slakker

That was the plan and I agree it is sound advice. But it will be tough to continue wearing down my DD super sports with the Hoosiers sitting in my garage. I was running 1:39s yesterday so it will be interesting to see how much difference coil overs and Hoosiers make. Then I can always go back to my Super Sports for the the following month

Coochas

A good scientific experiment changes only one variable at a time. As others have said, you will do yourself a favor by staying on street rubber while you progress your driving skills. Of course the Hoosiers will drop a significant amount of time but they will also mask a lot of mistakes. The Hoosiers will also be much less forgiving at the limit compared to Super Sports which is the main reason people recommend street rubber while you are early on the learning curve.

Slakker

Valid points and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. The question is whether proven theory plus my common sense can outweigh my foolish exuberance. That one is always a close race in my case.

It's just kind of been a lifelong dream to have a sports car that I could wrench on, modify appropriately, and run on the track. I've already done the thing where you buy a fast car (always german), increase the HP, drive it around the streets, get bored (or blow something) and sell it. Way too many times. This is the first time where my efforts are mirroring my passion and the rewards have been huge.

So no, I wasn't planning on buying coilovers or slicks until I really learned the car. But I knew I could save a lot of money by being opportunistic and jumping on really good deals (that's also part of the fun for me.) So ideally, I'll get my brakes sorted out, and then the longer I can wait to install the coilovers and later slicks (so painful), the more I will be able to appreciate the difference that they make. Lol, one variable at a time.

Frank 993 C4S

It's great that you have decided to jump into this sport head first. From somebody who has spent quite a bit of money and time to hone his skills over the past several years:

- buy yourself a torque wrench and make sure your car is mechanically sound before you hit the track. Morning tech is not meant to do maintenance on your car but to spot check compliance
- buy a good tire pressure gauge (Longacre?) and check your hot pressures religiously after each session
- buy a logbook and keep notes as you progress

- stick with stock parts and stay away from performance enhancing stuff (save that for later). Run your pads down to 50% and then throw them away. Bleed your brakes after every event.
- if you have money to spend, spend it on safety equipment (fire extinguisher, roll bar, seats, harness, etc...) first!
- Get as much seat time as you can afford
- Don't rush getting signed off for solo driving. Free instruction is great.
- By the time you're ready for the Hoosier (Slicks?, A7s?, R7s?) they are probably beyond their useful life so better re-sell them now if there is any life left in them.

mark kibort

good information here. the bottomliine is that you will get just as good experience drivnig on street tires as you willl on R compound and you wont be out $300 per tire after a 3-4 weekends. Unless you are playing with your buddies and they are on DOT Rs (because then you would want to keep up), running at the limit on a street tire vs a DOT tire is near the same in the early stages .. We ran World Challenge GT on street tires for a couple of years . not one driver drove the car any different. all the drivers put their car to the limit.... all about 4 seconds slower per lap, but still at the limit of the car and tire and thats the idea here. later, you can take the skill set to the R compound which are not as forgiving as far as overdriving them, but will be faster.. maybe when you start running time trials or something competitive. until then, trash on any safe street tire you can find. they should be cheap and allow for the entire season of DE'ing before they show signs of wearing out , maybe even longer.

Aspen Autosports

96 ft-lbs.

The Sebro Slotted Rotors are a good option. I personally recommend staying away from the cross drilled rotors as they tend to crack a lot.

If you wanted to upgrade then Giro-Disc would be my recommendation, but as many others have mentioned it is better off to keep it stock until you have more seat time.