cost to build spec 996
#17
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Probably 90% of the folks here will say buy built. I'm not as sold on that as others. First of all, there are not enough SP996's for their to be a good used market. More generally, I've yet to see a club level race car for sale that I didn't think I would modify in some form or fashion that would add an additional 10% to 15% (or more) to the cost of the car. It might be in the cage, the seat(s), harnesses, quick release, cool suit, data system, exhaust, ... you get the idea. So the bargain you perceive at first may not be quite the bargain you end up getting.
Yeah, there are exceptions to this, but they usually are the expensive cars.
#18
Rennlist Member
Probably 90% of the folks here will say buy built. I'm not as sold on that as others. First of all, there are not enough SP996's for their to be a good used market. More generally, I've yet to see a club level race car for sale that I didn't think I would modify in some form or fashion that would add an additional 10% to 15% (or more) to the cost of the car. It might be in the cage, the seat(s), harnesses, quick release, cool suit, data system, exhaust, ... you get the idea. So the bargain you perceive at first may not be quite the bargain you end up getting.
Yeah, there are exceptions to this, but they usually are the expensive cars.
Yeah, there are exceptions to this, but they usually are the expensive cars.
#19
Probably 90% of the folks here will say buy built. I'm not as sold on that as others. First of all, there are not enough SP996's for their to be a good used market. More generally, I've yet to see a club level race car for sale that I didn't think I would modify in some form or fashion that would add an additional 10% to 15% (or more) to the cost of the car. It might be in the cage, the seat(s), harnesses, quick release, cool suit, data system, exhaust, ... you get the idea. So the bargain you perceive at first may not be quite the bargain you end up getting.
Yeah, there are exceptions to this, but they usually are the expensive cars.
Yeah, there are exceptions to this, but they usually are the expensive cars.
In the end you get what you pay for. Cheap up front usually means higher repairs 1-3 seasons down the road.
The type of car you choose just determines the starting point of your expenses.
The costs of building a race car is the cost of building a race car. Transponder costs $449, Halo seat/brackets/belts costs $1600, Fire suppression $400, cage, paint, Cool Suit, AIM data, window net, center net and so on and so forth. You can save some bucks by buying used.....but do you really want to do that with safety equipment? Figure if you buy all new stuff, it'll cost you $10-20K.
Then you can add the cost of the donor. The nicer the car the higher the cost. :-). A good, unrusted Miata with hardtop will cost you $5K. I think we're all aware of the costs of Porsche parts. I went with SM because I could sign up directly with Mazda and get parts at dealer costs.
#21
#23
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That's true in part. There are few about which is why those of us who built pretty much had to do so. But I still think a Cup is a quantum increase in upfront and ongoing costs. Not that it's not worth it mind you but you pay for the difference in speed and factory built experience.
One of the reasons we chose the BFG R1's for SP996 was that we figured it would save money on the cost of operation due to the increased number of heat cycles you can get from the R1 vs Hoosiers. Folks regularly get two full race weekends, plus practice time out of the BFG's.
#24
Three Wheelin'
So I glanced at the rules for SP996.... appears to me that these cars are street-legal, correct? Not that you would want to drive them on the street, but you could.
What's the consensus... start with a 3.4 car or 3.6? Do they really run fairly equally on the track?
What's the consensus... start with a 3.4 car or 3.6? Do they really run fairly equally on the track?
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread featuring this discussion recently. But it depends on the track- the lighter 3.4 generally works better on tighter more technical tracks. Faster tracks favor the 3.6.
#27
and not sure why you'd want to drive it on the street at that point...
#29
Race Director
is always cheaper to BUY vs Build....but it can be enjoyable to build-spec your own car...
There are lots of spec classes out there that will be cheaper to run than a Spec996....but they also will be much slower as well....
Spec Miata and Spec E30 are very popular around here...but still not exactly "fun" in my book either
There are lots of spec classes out there that will be cheaper to run than a Spec996....but they also will be much slower as well....
Spec Miata and Spec E30 are very popular around here...but still not exactly "fun" in my book either
#30
Three Wheelin'
That's not hard to get around. But the ability to drive to the track rather than trailer would make it appealing. Perhaps not realistic.