ASK THE COACH
#3001
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You'll need a Smartycam HD and a logger. The logger can be a Solo DL, an Evo4s or Evo5 (logger with optional display), or a dash/logger like the MXL2, MXS, or MXG. Nothing from the Traqmate will work with the AiM equipment.
Let me know if I can help. I offer Rennlist discounts and Traqmate trade ins.
#3002
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Thank you both for the quick responses. I share data currently with 3-4 other drivers I run with and am reaching out to them to see if they would consider the update as well. It is a lot of money just to make syncing the video and data easier. (albeit way easier and time saving)
#3003
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Thank you both for the quick responses. I share data currently with 3-4 other drivers I run with and am reaching out to them to see if they would consider the update as well. It is a lot of money just to make syncing the video and data easier. (albeit way easier and time saving)
#3004
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Looking to get some feedback on my lap at Sebring. It was my first time there and I was driving conservatively to get a feel for the track. I will be back 12/9-12/10 so I want to improve. I'm on Dunlop Race Maxxx street tires.
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
#3005
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Looking to get some feedback on my lap at Sebring.
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
__________________
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#3006
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Looking to get some feedback on my lap at Sebring. It was my first time there and I was driving conservatively to get a feel for the track. I will be back 12/9-12/10 so I want to improve. I'm on Dunlop Race Maxxx street tires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZwSq6Ex7E4
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZwSq6Ex7E4
Here are my thoughts (excuse the loose visor >=( ):
Turn 1: get to WOT sooner and start opening the wheel more - need to use more of the track out room (accidentally downshifted to third before turn in)
Turn 3: don't coast before the braking zone (even if for .2 seconds)
Turn 4-5 commit to WOT, braking too much here.
Turn 10 - don't coast before braking zone
Turn 11-12 commit to WOT
Bishops Bend - Commit to more throttle here
Turn 16: over braking here
Braking zone before Turn 17: Stop coasting, can carry throtlte much later here. I believe I'm braking too early
Turn 17: I want to be wider before the bridge so that I'm facing a bit more to the right as I'm under the blue dot
Very cool driving, MP. I like the new suit—looking forward to leveraging you’re pre-buy analysis. And I’m eager to try to get to Sebring this winter.
I’ll be curious to see your time pick up after implementing your own critique. Love your desire to constantly improve and learn.
#3007
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I would concur with your self critique. With 17, place the car so you can get all your rotation done by the time you go under the bridge, so the rest is acceleration and release of steering. Also, yes you can move your bake zone much deeper into the curve. And don't forget that the moment you turn the wheel, additional speed is scrubbed off via front tire friction. You can brake less hard here as a result.
#3008
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Very cool driving, MP. I like the new suit—looking forward to leveraging you’re pre-buy analysis. And I’m eager to try to get to Sebring this winter.
I’ll be curious to see your time pick up after implementing your own critique. Love your desire to constantly improve and learn.
Very cool driving, MP. I like the new suit—looking forward to leveraging you’re pre-buy analysis. And I’m eager to try to get to Sebring this winter.
I’ll be curious to see your time pick up after implementing your own critique. Love your desire to constantly improve and learn.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I would concur with your self critique. With 17, place the car so you can get all your rotation done by the time you go under the bridge, so the rest is acceleration and release of steering. Also, yes you can move your bake zone much deeper into the curve. And don't forget that the moment you turn the wheel, additional speed is scrubbed off via front tire friction. You can brake less hard here as a result.
#3009
Three Wheelin'
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@moveswiftly I am not a coach or a pro but my videos shows you a little of what the GT4 can do on RE71R street (R) tire
I am sure I leave time on table at many spots but it gets you started...
I am sure I leave time on table at many spots but it gets you started...
#3010
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@moveswiftly I am not a coach or a pro but my videos shows you a little of what the GT4 can do on RE71R street (R) tire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TASCog0aGg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk6xCiEmOV0
I am sure I leave time on table at many spots but it gets you started...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TASCog0aGg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk6xCiEmOV0
I am sure I leave time on table at many spots but it gets you started...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#3011
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Is there any reason I wouldn't want a rear sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
#3012
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Is there any reason I wouldn't want a rear sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
#3013
Rennlist Hoonigan
which cost no drachmas
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
which cost no drachmas
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist
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![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is there any reason I wouldn't want a rear sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
So Elige's don't come with a factory sway bar and for the most part no-one uses one.
There is a vendor about to start selling one, and I was wondering if there was any good argument not to have one? Would it not allow me to run softer springs in the rear? I guess the downside to that would be that I could bottom out the tire where clearance is tight with the softer springs, but I am about to change to a smaller tire anyways so this shouldn't be an issue. I am running 700/900 spring rates with motion ratios Front is 1.428 Rear is 1.392. Car is 2218 lbs wet roughly 39% front weight. Currently using a front way bar about double front stiffness.
I am looking to increase the mid corner rotation just a bit along with being able to run softer springs, but I wonder if this already hard to drive car might be too much with a sway bar?
To evaluate the sway bar change, I like to use the rater at http://www.auto-ware.com/calcs/swaybar.htm Simple to use and gives you the rate of the bar. You can use that to get an idea of how much effect it will have on the car.
Suspension geometry programs are helpful to model the suspension, but they are a lot of measurements. They are not for everyone. But they will teach you a lot about you car, the sensitivities to different changes, and the quantities of those changes. Simulation software is similar in that it won't always give you the answer, but it teaches you which things are most important to focus on.
#3014
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Any tips particular to Sebring in the wet? I'll be there this weekend and it looks like we've got a forecast of rain for Saturday.
I've done a fair bit of DEs in the wet at WGI (awesome pavement), NJMP, Summit and have garnered the following tidbits:
1. A lot of time the dry line is worse because of accumulated / caked up rubber on the worn surface - go off line
2. When braking try to stay 1/2 car width off the normal line for reason # 1
3. Always search for grip, track always changes and you need to adapt
4. Concrete is hella slippery
5. curbs, on average, and painted surfaces = no go unless you're driving straight through them (bus stop entry curbing for example at WGI)
6. smooth inputs reward the driver (as always)
Want to know if ya'll have any tips particular to Sebring and any areas or turns to keep an eye out for.
I've done a fair bit of DEs in the wet at WGI (awesome pavement), NJMP, Summit and have garnered the following tidbits:
1. A lot of time the dry line is worse because of accumulated / caked up rubber on the worn surface - go off line
2. When braking try to stay 1/2 car width off the normal line for reason # 1
3. Always search for grip, track always changes and you need to adapt
4. Concrete is hella slippery
5. curbs, on average, and painted surfaces = no go unless you're driving straight through them (bus stop entry curbing for example at WGI)
6. smooth inputs reward the driver (as always)
Want to know if ya'll have any tips particular to Sebring and any areas or turns to keep an eye out for.
#3015
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Any tips particular to Sebring in the wet? I'll be there this weekend and it looks like we've got a forecast of rain for Saturday.
I've done a fair bit of DEs in the wet at WGI (awesome pavement), NJMP, Summit and have garnered the following tidbits:
1. A lot of time the dry line is worse because of accumulated / caked up rubber on the worn surface - go off line
2. When braking try to stay 1/2 car width off the normal line for reason # 1
3. Always search for grip, track always changes and you need to adapt
4. Concrete is hella slippery
5. curbs, on average, and painted surfaces = no go unless you're driving straight through them (bus stop entry curbing for example at WGI)
6. smooth inputs reward the driver (as always)
Want to know if ya'll have any tips particular to Sebring and any areas or turns to keep an eye out for.
I've done a fair bit of DEs in the wet at WGI (awesome pavement), NJMP, Summit and have garnered the following tidbits:
1. A lot of time the dry line is worse because of accumulated / caked up rubber on the worn surface - go off line
2. When braking try to stay 1/2 car width off the normal line for reason # 1
3. Always search for grip, track always changes and you need to adapt
4. Concrete is hella slippery
5. curbs, on average, and painted surfaces = no go unless you're driving straight through them (bus stop entry curbing for example at WGI)
6. smooth inputs reward the driver (as always)
Want to know if ya'll have any tips particular to Sebring and any areas or turns to keep an eye out for.