JJE997.2RS

Wow. That is substantial. Thanks

Veloce Raptor

The longer the full throttle zones the bigger the difference. And Sebring has a few...

TXE36

So perhaps I can "deem" myself a 2 minute lap at TWS after all. Two weeks ago I was running 2:02s and 2:03s in 100F heat. No 2 flats, but I was keeping up with a faster group of peers this time.

Who knows.

-Mike

Matt Romanowski

Ambient temps certainly have an effect on power output. Don't discount track temp as well.

DTMiller

If it's in the upper 80s or above I just work on other stuff because personal bests aren't happening.

JJE997.2RS

Yep thought of that. I haven't been able to determine the temp that the Hoosiers start thinking it's too hot.

For example took temps coming off track that day and tires were in the mid 160's. I think that's close to ideal no?

ProCoach

Track temps do make a difference, but the variability is much greater on a more worn, older pavement track.

Mid 160's is barely at the bottom end of the target temp for Hoosiers. This would be a temp, IMO, that would need to be reached to count as a heat cycle.

From Hoosier: For best performance the expected temperature range will vary from track to track. Generally, optimum traction will be generated when the pit lane temps show 180-200 degrees for the R7 in Roadrace applications, and 110-140 degrees for the A7 in an Autocross application. To get accurate hot tire temperatures, you should use a needle probe. An IR sensor surface temperature device will read cold and this may cause you to miss your hot target temperatures.

justaguy

Whats the format for asking the coach a question?

I had a bad shunt 3 years ago in turn one of our local track and need some help getting up to speed in that part of the track. It was a 80 mph crash and I destroyed the car and broke a couple of ribs.

I am on pace on the rest of the track but I cant make myself carry more speed through turns one and two no matter how hard I try, I keep over slowing. I have data and can provide more info if any one is interested. I've been off rennlist for a few years so not sure what the protocol is here.

Thanks

Veloce Raptor

Welcome! There is no format, you just ask

This is a difficult thing for most to overcome. One way that does help is looking way farther ahead in that area, to prevent your eyes and mind from fixating on "the spot".

Happy to also discuss offline if you'd like: Dave@racecoach.net

Brian C in Az

Try approaching those turns at 85mph then you only need to brake enough to transfer weight. You are panicking because you are approaching too fast and recollecting the crash. Keep your approach at 85, gives you time to prepare for where to apply the brakes, focus on your turn in, focus on a smooth release of the brakes. Set a goal of no slower than 75 mph through the turn. Then increase that as you feel comfortable. Once you can maintain the maximum corner speed, then increase the speed on the straight approach by 10 mph increments until you are at full throttle. This process could take a day of 3 sessions or it can take many track days. But it does work.

Brian C in Az

You turn early at 17 and double apex it (many guys do). You are drifting more than actually turning, you turn the wheel a little by barely moving the steering wheel then later in the turn you actually turn the wheel. Try turning just after the 2 cones and get as close to the wall as possible. Lift slightly off the throttle to get the car to turn, but don't brake early. That is a very long turn with a mile of run off. (Try walking it after the track is cold.) There used to be a green dot on the bridge, we would look for it for our aim to the apex since the apex was hidden by the wall.

You seem to be early on and off the brake in a few turns and you get understeer very early in the corners. If you are on the brakes later, the car will turn more (better). Understeer should occur later in the corner in a stock Porsche (generally).

MarcD147

I will be transitioning from my street GT4 to my 996 cup that arrived last week. I am pretty quick in my GT4 but definitely not a pro.
I will do one more event coming weekend in my gt4 and then will drive the cup car by mid October.

My goal is to race the cup next year in PCA GTC3 likely starting aug NJMP(hometrack) unless I feel comfortable, fast and safe enough to go earlier (eg VIR in june).
To get familiar with more tracks I have been doing WGI, Sebring, VIR, Daytona and of course NJMP my hometrack and have at least 5 days on each (except for only 3 on Daytona) in the last year alone.

2 events ago I started turning off the sport button(autoblip)in the GT4 to train my heel/toe in preparation for the cup car and am within a .1 of my personal best and hope to break it coming weekend.


the cup car will have many firsts for me:

• no nannies
• slicks
• rear engine

my first day out will be with my shop and they will take care of everything. I just need to get behind the wheel and focus on learning to drive it.

finally the question:
What kind of guidance do you have for me starting to drive the cup car?

Veloce Raptor

Marc, I would focus on two things:

Your clutch action and shifter will be very different than the street car GT4. Your timing of clutch and shift--up and down--with that tiny little flywheel will be critical. Work on that. Quick shifts and quick clutch.

And full slicks...doing a proper warm up and gradually beginning to trust the boatloads of additional grip.

996 Cup is one of THE most rewarding cars to drive on track IMO. Congrats!

FFaust

Haha, baby steps, but more importantly, have fun.

Maybe just be cautious with cold tires (slicks). You could also get a set of Hoosiers to learn the car before going full slicks?

You are saying the right things, so you should be fine.

I just did the reverse: From 996 GT3 (not cup, but full track) to Spec Cayman.

The biggest thing that I felt, or didn't feel, was that in a rear-engined car, you "feel the physics", to quote a friend. In the Cayman, not so much. It was eery at first because I couldn't feel what was going on.

The wing will help, but you might want to go back to "slow in, fast out" at first, until building entry speed back up.

Another thing you will notice is that the throttle is a much better steering device on the cup than on the Cayman; it's sooo much fun. I found that I could just throw the gt3 around and control it with the throttle, whereas, so far, I find the 987 to need more precise driving, but this could be just me.

The above is of course IMHO, so caveat emptor.

Let us know how is goes.

MarcD147

one of the things I worry about is getting heat in tires and grip... will I even be able to go fast enough to get heat in them?

with the GT4 I know exactly how long it takes, how hard I can push on cold tires to get them heated up, I know how grip feels like, I know how it feels when tires go off and how to bring them back from overdriving/heating etc etc...

in the GT4 I have the TPMS screen up so I have an extra datapoint that verifies my butt dyno if the car starts sliding around (over heated tires by overdriving, they are not hot yet etc etc)