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#256
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I dunno...if you're only at 6000 rpm at track out (wheels straight, no need for additional stability) and the car makes real power to 8500, why would you upshift at 6000?
#257
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Larry Herman
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#259
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Gents this is a bona fide question. I know what I don't know, which is why I asked. Do people short shift? Yes. Does that always make sense? Probably not. I trust there are folks who know when to do it and are willing to articulate why. Ain't that the point of this thread?
#260
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If you are questioning it I would do segments with data to determine which is faster and why.
I would bet each could be used in different situations in a race to take advantage of racing circumstances. One maybe in a qualifing lap and another for a certain passing opportunity.
#261
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IMO, your GT3RS is not one of these. And, if you are at only 6000 rpm at track out, and your wheels are straight, there is no real advantage to upshifting there instead of closer to yoru 8500 rpm redline, all other things being equal.
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Last edited by PedroNole; 06-09-2011 at 10:29 AM.
#263
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It's all about keeping the car happy and compliant as much as you can. Are there places you can short shift to help the car/you go faster, yes. One example, turn 2 at Watkins Glen. In my car, I would get a decent amount of push as I was entering the turn and winding out 4th gear and sometimes the shift point would come when I would rather have 100% of my focus on what was going on at 120mph in the turn. If you blow 2, you likely blow three and then your lap is done... So, I would come out of 1 in 4th gear full throttle to about 7,400rpm (my car revs to 8,500) and shift to 5th before setting the car for turn 2. Car was happy, I was happy and we both ended up fast....
. That help?
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As for short shifting in a DE compared to running your car to redline that is up to the owner of the car in my opinion. If you are looking to be easy on the car and not abuse it then fine shift early. If you want to act like your street car is a cup car then run it to redline. Either one works and gets the car around the track. If you find you are shifting at 6K RPMs when the car revs to 8.5K then you are being too easy on the car and should consider shifting higher. There is a point that you can be too easy on the car.
One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Don't shift at 7k one lap coming out of T5 and then next lap you shift at 8k out of T5. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
#264
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One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Don't shift at 7k one lap coming out of T5 and then next lap you shift at 8k out of T5. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
+1
#265
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The two conditions where I'm most likely to short shift are to either make throttle modulation is easier in a turn, or to set myself up so that I can carry a gear all the way through a sweeper rather than have to shift while the car is still loaded. With respect to the latter circumstance, it's usually a turn where I would hit redline right around track-out. T2-1 at TWS going CW is a perfect example of that.
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The reason is because you used your shift to 5th as the lift to help get the car pointed at the bottom of the uphill esses instead of pushing the car wide and being off the 2nd apex. So your full throttle point was 200ft longer than using 4th to redline. Data is the answer for this one.
One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
Like Seth said, your "lift" (any sort of pause in acceleration, be it a shift or hitting a fuel or ignition cutout at redline) should be timed to both insure a steady progression of power without interruption and placed most appropriately in the torque delivery of the engine. Witness shifting up earlier from T1-T2 at WGI or between T14A and T15 and again before T16 at VIR.
Seamless, rhythmic... That's the goal.
You can stretch RPM if you want, but it's a lot more expensive if there's no margin and you happen to screw up!
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Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#267
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It's all about keeping the car happy and compliant as much as you can. Are there places you can short shift to help the car/you go faster, yes. One example, turn 2 at Watkins Glen. In my car, I would get a decent amount of push as I was entering the turn and winding out 4th gear and sometimes the shift point would come when I would rather have 100% of my focus on what was going on at 120mph in the turn. If you blow 2, you likely blow three and then your lap is done... So, I would come out of 1 in 4th gear full throttle to about 7,400rpm (my car revs to 8,500) and shift to 5th before setting the car for turn 2. Car was happy, I was happy and we both ended up fast....
. That help?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As for short shifting in a DE compared to running your car to redline that is up to the owner of the car in my opinion. If you are looking to be easy on the car and not abuse it then fine shift early. If you want to act like your street car is a cup car then run it to redline. Either one works and gets the car around the track. If you find you are shifting at 6K RPMs when the car revs to 8.5K then you are being too easy on the car and should consider shifting higher. There is a point that you can be too easy on the car.
One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Don't shift at 7k one lap coming out of T5 and then next lap you shift at 8k out of T5. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
One very important point to consider in all of this is to get a rhythm going in the car. Always shift at the same point on the track at a proper RPM. Don't shift at 7k one lap coming out of T5 and then next lap you shift at 8k out of T5. Be consistent because you want to make shifting one of the processes you don't think about when in the car. It needs to be relatively subliminal, creating a rhythm.
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The two conditions where I'm most likely to short shift are to either make throttle modulation is easier in a turn, or to set myself up so that I can carry a gear all the way through a sweeper rather than have to shift while the car is still loaded. With respect to the latter circumstance, it's usually a turn where I would hit redline right around track-out. T2-1 at TWS going CW is a perfect example of that.
^^this^^
Like Seth said, your "lift" (any sort of pause in acceleration, be it a shift or hitting a fuel or ignition cutout at redline) should be timed to both insure a steady progression of power without interruption and placed most appropriately in the torque delivery of the engine.
Seamless, rhythmic... That's the goal.
You can stretch RPM if you want, but it's a lot more expensive if there's no margin and you happen to screw up!
Like Seth said, your "lift" (any sort of pause in acceleration, be it a shift or hitting a fuel or ignition cutout at redline) should be timed to both insure a steady progression of power without interruption and placed most appropriately in the torque delivery of the engine.
Seamless, rhythmic... That's the goal.
You can stretch RPM if you want, but it's a lot more expensive if there's no margin and you happen to screw up!
#268
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If your engine makes power until XXXX rpm....then of course you want to shift there, or maybe slightly past it.....about the only scenario I can see where it "might" be better to short shift is say you are going into a sweeper, where you are accelerating and holding until redline would put you shifting while still turning, pulling lots of G....that could upset the car....especially a high power car....
Intentionally short shifting an 8500rpm engine at 6000rpm on a straight is costing lots of power... but it all depends on your goal for that day and that session....is it an all out race or just a DE for fun...you might want to take it easy.....or try the "1" gear theory....where you work on smoothness and carrying momentum and don't shift the whole track..... For example the 1 gear theory in my car is about 3 seconds per lap slower.....but far easier on the car!
Intentionally short shifting an 8500rpm engine at 6000rpm on a straight is costing lots of power... but it all depends on your goal for that day and that session....is it an all out race or just a DE for fun...you might want to take it easy.....or try the "1" gear theory....where you work on smoothness and carrying momentum and don't shift the whole track..... For example the 1 gear theory in my car is about 3 seconds per lap slower.....but far easier on the car!
#269
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Look at how much he trail brakes.
The throttle popping, however, does not show what you think it shows. He is using that technique to help rotate a car that tends to understeer a lot (street car with skinny front tires) and get the rear end rotating faster/more aggressively than it normally would want to.
#270
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After a lifetime of shifting gears with my right hand, I would think making the transition to left hand shifting would be difficult and maybe expensive{key synchronizers crunching}.