utkinpol

Great info. I do have adjustable sways and 2 way adjustable shocks so that should be fine.
Does Quaife give better bang-per-buck on japanese gearboxes than Guard? Are they overall comparable?

Larry Herman

I would assume that they work on the same principle, but have no idea as to who makes a better unit. They both have good reputations. For the LSD, I would go Porsche Motorsport or Guard.

Veloce Raptor

Absolutely!!!!

cannon1000

Thanks for the 101 pointers. I am less concerned with being the butt of a joke (i was half joking with that) - I was just trying to express the humor that instructors might have the same way we would smile at teaching our kids how to ride a bike.

Hand Placement, seat position, Pedal control, etc....those are very important to me - if the basics are understood it makes "driving" easier.

Veloce Raptor

LOL...well, I think the only thing that cauuses amusement are driving techniques often seen in very powerful cars that involve the following sequence:

-drag race on straightaway
-park car & sip latte in corner
-lather
-rinse
-repeat




It is incumbent upon all instructors, with all levels of drivers, to encourage driving ALL cars like momentum cars.

JMHO....

Land Jet

Dave, because I have a 996TT, I get kidded a lot for the reasons you stated above. How would you describe driving a turbo like a momentum car? Don't you also have to drive the car to it's strengths?

Veloce Raptor

Those cars are very capable, actually, and get out of corners very well, but their weight & their understeer poses challenges. Trailbraking, later apexes, and frequent replacement of brake pads and tires...yeah they can be driven like momentum cars, withing their limits. That doesn't obviate their strengths, it emphasizes them IMO.

Land Jet

I need some clarification about tire pressures. From what I've seen on the forums, most guys seem to set the front pressures a couple of pounds less than the rears for a 911 because of the 60/40 weight bias. I was reading an article yesterday that stated that in order to have a neutral handling car, you want all 4 tires to start sliding at the same time, as opposed to the fronts before the rears, or visa versa. Is the goal to have hot pressures equal at all 4 tires, or having hot temperatures equal at all 4 tires{I have a pyrometer}, or is it something else all together? How do you get all 4 tires to the same grip level in a 911?

Veloce Raptor

One other factor to consider is that the rears will get hotter than the fronts (with a non-beginner driver) because even in AWD 911's, most of the drive energy is to the rears, all of the engine heat is back there, and the rear brakes are usually very poorly ventilated. So, depending on the driver & set up, sometimes having the rears start the same as the fronts, or even a bit lower, can work really well. Emphasis on sometimes. Also, to answer your questiion, I am a much bigger fan of taking probe pyrometer temps across the tread surface than just relying on pressures. And make sure it is a probe pyrometer, not the infrared versions, which onluy measure surface (rather than tread) temps.

Land Jet

I have the probe type pyrometer.

From your answer I'm still not clear on what indicator tells you that all tires are equal in grip. If the rears will get hotter than the fronts, then I assume temperature is not the equalizing factor. I am able to feel when the tires get greasy from too high pressures. Do hot pressures give a better indication of grip? Should hot pressure be equal at all tires? Or is seat of the pants feel the only way to tell? That seems subjective rather than objective or quantitative.

mark kibort

engine weight over the front part of the wheels in the rear vs not, is not the issue. Most of the forces are on the fronts, without question. even with 40/60 wieght, even with turbo, big power, etc. the braking is the hardest force on the turn, and the size stagger should make up on the heat comparisons of the front vs rear based on a neutral handlng car. (both tires getting worked in turns near the same) Because the fronts are causing much more physical change of speeds, vs the rears, they get hotter usually first. if they dont, there are driver factor that can change that.

the reason that many put slightly less pressure in the front, is to get more use out of the front tires, but its not the rule by any stretch. the weight transfer under braking is HUGE, even in a straight line , let a lone in trail braking. 10x the forces of acceleration putting greater force to the rears, generally.

Veloce Raptor

IMO the only way to tell whether "all tires are equal in grip" is by driving the car.

Land Jet

The weight is their biggest weakness no doubt for handling, but it doesn't hurt braking very much because of the GT3 6 piston fronts, and 350mm discs at each corner of my car. Tires presently are Nito NT01's. Upgraded turbos{500whp} give wonderful acceleration. I also upgraded all my suspension to adjustable control arms, Moton Clubsports, GT3 control arms, bigger sways and TRG droplinks. It's got -2 degrees camber front and rear and is corner balanced. This combination of upgrades has reduced the understeer as much as possible for this car's weight. Sorry for the mod list, just thought it might give a better idea of how the car is set up.

I find the most difficult part of driving it is the transition from quickly attained speed to intense braking for the next corner, and not over braking, lather, rinse,repeat, as you say. I need to get more flow into it. How can I apply the "momentum car " theory to help this situation?

winders

Weight ALWAYS hurts braking.

Scott

Land Jet

Yea, you're right. I guess I meant to say it felt better after the BB upgrade.