400# torque wrench
#2
Nordschleife Master
Bill, I just bought a S&K 3/4" torque wrench (600lbs capable) for my center locking wheels. It was about $350 and has a ratcheting reversable action. Snap on sells one for $600 but is doesn't ratchet which I think is a pain. It also isn't as nice as the S&K in my opinion. Don't buy a Harbor Freight special...
When you go to buy the sockets, don't get 12pt sockets, get 6pt sockets as I've had the 12pt gall the centerlocking nut. You may want to get a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so you can use a Snap On battery powered driver on the wheels.
When you go to buy the sockets, don't get 12pt sockets, get 6pt sockets as I've had the 12pt gall the centerlocking nut. You may want to get a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so you can use a Snap On battery powered driver on the wheels.
#6
Burning Brakes
Bill, You can save the money and just get a good 1/2 impact. Make sure you start the nut by hand and then hit it with the impact 3 or 4 times. They wont come off. We have been doing it for years with our cup car and many other people use this method aswell.
chris
chris
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#10
Addict
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Bill,
For my GTP car I purchased a big Proto 48" 700 ft/lb. Those centerlocks went on with 550 ft lbs. It was quite a pain in the butt using that wrench.
I then simply purchased a Mac torque x4 multiplier and you can then use your normal 1/2 torque wrench. Setting your 1/2 at 100 ft/lbs generated 400 ft/lbs out of the multiplier.
After messing around half a season that way, I purchased a 1" air gun and simply used the torque wrench to help calibrate the proper nitrogen pressure with the air gun to get the desired torque. All guns are different, so I would recommend going through that calibration step unless you get the specific brand and model air gun that people are already using.
Another thing to consider - if you get a huge torque wrench, you may have to have someone hold the brake pedal instead of just doing it yourself.
You can use a torque multiplier or air gun yourself...
A bit long winded, but just my experiences...
Norm
For my GTP car I purchased a big Proto 48" 700 ft/lb. Those centerlocks went on with 550 ft lbs. It was quite a pain in the butt using that wrench.
I then simply purchased a Mac torque x4 multiplier and you can then use your normal 1/2 torque wrench. Setting your 1/2 at 100 ft/lbs generated 400 ft/lbs out of the multiplier.
After messing around half a season that way, I purchased a 1" air gun and simply used the torque wrench to help calibrate the proper nitrogen pressure with the air gun to get the desired torque. All guns are different, so I would recommend going through that calibration step unless you get the specific brand and model air gun that people are already using.
Another thing to consider - if you get a huge torque wrench, you may have to have someone hold the brake pedal instead of just doing it yourself.
You can use a torque multiplier or air gun yourself...
A bit long winded, but just my experiences...
Norm
#11
Rennlist Member
I got the cheap Harbor Freight one and a breaker bar from them too for loosening the nuts.
I use the cheap harbor freight aluminum jack handle over the breaker bar.
They work OK but they are certainly not professional tools like the ones above, I should be ashamed for buying cheap Chinese junk (which I always tell my customers not to buy...)
should work ok for a few years just to use the torque wrench for final tightening. If I were really cheap the breaker bar and jack handle would do it, you can get pretty close after you
get a feel for it.
I use the cheap harbor freight aluminum jack handle over the breaker bar.
They work OK but they are certainly not professional tools like the ones above, I should be ashamed for buying cheap Chinese junk (which I always tell my customers not to buy...)
should work ok for a few years just to use the torque wrench for final tightening. If I were really cheap the breaker bar and jack handle would do it, you can get pretty close after you
get a feel for it.
#12
Burning Brakes
I bought the Harbor Freight GT3 Cup Car and it has been fantastic. Only $24,999 as opposed to over $100K for the German version. It has been great so far and I figure once it wears out I can just throw it away and buy another one.
#13
Nordschleife Master
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Great thread! Too bad it wasn't psted before I spent all that money for Snap On's $680. torque wrench. I also bought their 18V impact wrench which unfortunately won't remove the center lugs torqued to 350 lbs. Any advise??
#14
Darth Cup
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
Great thread! Too bad it wasn't psted before I spent all that money for Snap On's $680. torque wrench. I also bought their 18V impact wrench which unfortunately won't remove the center lugs torqued to 350 lbs. Any advise??
I have a Snap-On 4' breaker that will remove the nut with some force.
Also, if you're using a nitrogen tank for your airjacks you could run an air impact wrench off of the tank. Ingersoll-Rand unit for 350 ft-lbs ~ $200. A quick release coupler at the end of your hose will let you use the wand and wrench interchangably.
Did you get a new car ('04)?
#15
Darth Cup
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Originally Posted by JC in NY
I bought the Harbor Freight GT3 Cup Car and it has been fantastic. Only $24,999 as opposed to over $100K for the German version. It has been great so far and I figure once it wears out I can just throw it away and buy another one.