Dbltime

Where do you buy the 48" (or so) torque wrenches for the center lock wheels?

Any used ones around?

460nm/339ft lbs for center locks

Geoffrey

Bill, I just bought a S&K 3/4" torque wrench (600lbs capable) for my center locking wheels. It was about $350 and has a ratcheting reversable action. Snap on sells one for $600 but is doesn't ratchet which I think is a pain. It also isn't as nice as the S&K in my opinion. Don't buy a Harbor Freight special...

When you go to buy the sockets, don't get 12pt sockets, get 6pt sockets as I've had the 12pt gall the centerlocking nut. You may want to get a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter so you can use a Snap On battery powered driver on the wheels.

RSRRacer

Snap On. Go on ebay and good ones are $600 or so.

Dbltime

Thanks Geoffrey. That looks like the ticket.

Dbltime

Chris, I looked around e bay. The S & K will do the job.

amondc

Bill, You can save the money and just get a good 1/2 impact. Make sure you start the nut by hand and then hit it with the impact 3 or 4 times. They wont come off. We have been doing it for years with our cup car and many other people use this method aswell.

chris

Professor Helmüt Tester

Get a 24" breaker bar and a 200 lb. friend.

kev

Bill,

Glen had a large wrench, used, for sale awhile ago, might try him.

I have a S&K 48" from Pelican Parts, still works.

Geoffrey

Bill, you won't be disappointed...

ngoldrich

Bill,

For my GTP car I purchased a big Proto 48" 700 ft/lb. Those centerlocks went on with 550 ft lbs. It was quite a pain in the butt using that wrench.

I then simply purchased a Mac torque x4 multiplier and you can then use your normal 1/2 torque wrench. Setting your 1/2 at 100 ft/lbs generated 400 ft/lbs out of the multiplier.

After messing around half a season that way, I purchased a 1" air gun and simply used the torque wrench to help calibrate the proper nitrogen pressure with the air gun to get the desired torque. All guns are different, so I would recommend going through that calibration step unless you get the specific brand and model air gun that people are already using.

Another thing to consider - if you get a huge torque wrench, you may have to have someone hold the brake pedal instead of just doing it yourself.

You can use a torque multiplier or air gun yourself...

A bit long winded, but just my experiences...

Norm

analogmike

I got the cheap Harbor Freight one and a breaker bar from them too for loosening the nuts.
I use the cheap harbor freight aluminum jack handle over the breaker bar.
They work OK but they are certainly not professional tools like the ones above, I should be ashamed for buying cheap Chinese junk (which I always tell my customers not to buy...)

should work ok for a few years just to use the torque wrench for final tightening. If I were really cheap the breaker bar and jack handle would do it, you can get pretty close after you
get a feel for it.

JC in NY

I bought the Harbor Freight GT3 Cup Car and it has been fantastic. Only $24,999 as opposed to over $100K for the German version. It has been great so far and I figure once it wears out I can just throw it away and buy another one.

jrgordonsenior

Great thread! Too bad it wasn't psted before I spent all that money for Snap On's $680. torque wrench. I also bought their 18V impact wrench which unfortunately won't remove the center lugs torqued to 350 lbs. Any advise??

kev

John,

I have a Snap-On 4' breaker that will remove the nut with some force.

Also, if you're using a nitrogen tank for your airjacks you could run an air impact wrench off of the tank. Ingersoll-Rand unit for 350 ft-lbs ~ $200. A quick release coupler at the end of your hose will let you use the wand and wrench interchangably.

Did you get a new car ('04)?

kev

Ding-ding-ding. Post of the day!