Trade 07 GT3 RS with 997 Cup
12-21-2010, 01:48 PM
#16
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This is a PMNA kit, not a Manthey kit.
This will be the only kit allowed in Patron or GTC competition, according to PMNA. Not sure about PCA, etc.
This will be the only kit allowed in Patron or GTC competition, according to PMNA. Not sure about PCA, etc.
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James F. Sofronas | President & Owner
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James F. Sofronas | President & Owner
Global Motorsports Group ™
E: james@gmgracing.com
P: +1 (714) 432-1582
F: +1 (714) 432-1590
A: 3210 South Shannon Street, Santa Ana, California 92704
W: gmgracing.com
12-21-2010, 02:55 PM
#17
My vote is to keep the car and make it a 997 cup-sudo, without having to rebuild the engine and tranny every year or so!
This car stripped 100%, with DA & monoball suspension, cup wing... would go up against any 996 cup out there.
Stripp it and do a 3.9/4.0 upgrade and I think you will have more car than most of us will ever be able to handle at 100%
FYI, that would be my dream track/race car, no cup for me!
This car stripped 100%, with DA & monoball suspension, cup wing... would go up against any 996 cup out there.
Stripp it and do a 3.9/4.0 upgrade and I think you will have more car than most of us will ever be able to handle at 100%
FYI, that would be my dream track/race car, no cup for me!
12-21-2010, 03:03 PM
#20
What has Your car cost You so far? Anywhere near a Cup? There is a reason I ask, I went down the road You are on a decade ago and found the Cups to be far less expensive, far more durable and most importantly far safer....I will give details on my walk if it helps.
12-21-2010, 04:22 PM
#21
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12-21-2010, 05:52 PM
#22
Kool, congrats!
Here is a great link to start with...for me it all started with safety. I built the wicked 993 RSCS clone (with duplicate of factory cage welded at a , b and c pillars) then Gt2 993 You can find that build and new owners comments in years old posts. Now owned by a great guy in CHI and is Jelly Bean Blue GT2.
I figured out how quick things can go bad, watched friends walk away from Cup cars where they would be dead in a street car and went there asap with a 2001 Kadach car driven by Zampedri(car is still going strong and has HUGE hours on it 3 owners later)...
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...?highlight=Cup
As a point of reference, a GREAT driver, friend of mine, just had an off in his street GT3, with HANS etc...hurt, will recover. Now will move to a Cup.
Only reason I have seen for the other path is You can borrow $ to buy a street car, Cup You have to pay for. The cost is not very relevant once You have the wreck....
Here is a great link to start with...for me it all started with safety. I built the wicked 993 RSCS clone (with duplicate of factory cage welded at a , b and c pillars) then Gt2 993 You can find that build and new owners comments in years old posts. Now owned by a great guy in CHI and is Jelly Bean Blue GT2.
I figured out how quick things can go bad, watched friends walk away from Cup cars where they would be dead in a street car and went there asap with a 2001 Kadach car driven by Zampedri(car is still going strong and has HUGE hours on it 3 owners later)...
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...?highlight=Cup
As a point of reference, a GREAT driver, friend of mine, just had an off in his street GT3, with HANS etc...hurt, will recover. Now will move to a Cup.
Only reason I have seen for the other path is You can borrow $ to buy a street car, Cup You have to pay for. The cost is not very relevant once You have the wreck....
12-21-2010, 08:17 PM
#23
2 points:
1. 99.9% of the time a cup car has to be bought with CASH. That means you better have $100k (used 997) to $220K (new 2010-2011) in cash to drop on a cup car. A street car can be bought and financed since it has a title.
2. Cost to run a 997S like mine or GT3 is penny's compared to the cost to run a cup car (maintenance, spares, tune up, consumable...) When I did the math, my car would cost 1/2 or 1/4 of what it would cost to run a 997 Cup car for a track weened (2-3 days).
So for the $$$ I have a blast in my car while still fine tuning my driving and skills, and i still have A LOT to learn.
My car is basically a 997 Spec (with some extra mods) or how I like to call it, the poor mans wannabe cup car.
1. 99.9% of the time a cup car has to be bought with CASH. That means you better have $100k (used 997) to $220K (new 2010-2011) in cash to drop on a cup car. A street car can be bought and financed since it has a title.
2. Cost to run a 997S like mine or GT3 is penny's compared to the cost to run a cup car (maintenance, spares, tune up, consumable...) When I did the math, my car would cost 1/2 or 1/4 of what it would cost to run a 997 Cup car for a track weened (2-3 days).
So for the $$$ I have a blast in my car while still fine tuning my driving and skills, and i still have A LOT to learn.
My car is basically a 997 Spec (with some extra mods) or how I like to call it, the poor mans wannabe cup car.
12-21-2010, 08:24 PM
#24
Glen,
what the difference in the safety of a 997 cup car and my stripped 997s with a full cup car chro-moly cage?
997 with a full aftermarket cage is the same cars that are run and crashed in Grand Am by BGB, Synergy, and TRG.
what the difference in the safety of a 997 cup car and my stripped 997s with a full cup car chro-moly cage?
997 with a full aftermarket cage is the same cars that are run and crashed in Grand Am by BGB, Synergy, and TRG.
12-21-2010, 08:37 PM
#25
Former Vendor
dont take this the wrong way...ive had a few prepped race cars based on street cars. raced an awsome Deman boxster last year. spent a good amount of time in a 2010 Cayman S Interseries Car. a Spec miata...etc.
and maybe this is my opinion not shared by others who have time in street-prepped race cars vs. a factory race car...but a factory race car is just a better handling, more precise weapon. there is nothign more precise than a well tune, well setup factory race car. and porsche and their cup cars are the best factory race cars made available, generally speaking , to the public.
and maybe this is my opinion not shared by others who have time in street-prepped race cars vs. a factory race car...but a factory race car is just a better handling, more precise weapon. there is nothign more precise than a well tune, well setup factory race car. and porsche and their cup cars are the best factory race cars made available, generally speaking , to the public.
2 points:
1. 99.9% of the time a cup car has to be bought with CASH. That means you better have $100k (used 997) to $220K (new 2010-2011) in cash to drop on a cup car. A street car can be bought and financed since it has a title.
2. Cost to run a 997S like mine or GT3 is penny's compared to the cost to run a cup car (maintenance, spares, tune up, consumable...) When I did the math, my car would cost 1/2 or 1/4 of what it would cost to run a 997 Cup car for a track weened (2-3 days).
So for the $$$ I have a blast in my car while still fine tuning my driving and skills, and i still have A LOT to learn.
My car is basically a 997 Spec (with some extra mods) or how I like to call it, the poor mans wannabe cup car.
1. 99.9% of the time a cup car has to be bought with CASH. That means you better have $100k (used 997) to $220K (new 2010-2011) in cash to drop on a cup car. A street car can be bought and financed since it has a title.
2. Cost to run a 997S like mine or GT3 is penny's compared to the cost to run a cup car (maintenance, spares, tune up, consumable...) When I did the math, my car would cost 1/2 or 1/4 of what it would cost to run a 997 Cup car for a track weened (2-3 days).
So for the $$$ I have a blast in my car while still fine tuning my driving and skills, and i still have A LOT to learn.
My car is basically a 997 Spec (with some extra mods) or how I like to call it, the poor mans wannabe cup car.
12-21-2010, 08:54 PM
#26
SPG, I could not agree more with you.
One is a machete, and the other is a sharpened swiss army knife.
For me the cost to run and maintain a cup car is out of my budget, and I already spend a lot each year on this habit.
One is a machete, and the other is a sharpened swiss army knife.
For me the cost to run and maintain a cup car is out of my budget, and I already spend a lot each year on this habit.
12-22-2010, 12:13 AM
#27
Your point on how much a used Cup costs now is very valid, with the current price of used 6 and 7 Cups where they are, there is no cheaper date in bang for the buck overall.
Regards to safety its primariy because noone has wrecked more cars than the factory, they take them back study them and make changes to them every year based on everything they learn. When You see some of the horrific track incidents ive seen, You wont drive anything else. Kudos to You for the full cage, HANS etc... You are doing what You can. Fire system yet? Ever wonder why the factory uses mild steel instead of CROMO? Etc...
Like I said, been there done that, tried it all and this is where I ended up a almost a decade ago.
They are FAR FAR more durable than what is represented here, or the guys tearing them up early are hacks....sorry couldnt resist! LOL
My first one is still going strong on its original motor although he did have to refresh his gearbox last year, cost him like 4k to fix what he needed repaired and it has WAY WAY over 200 hrs.
Tire costs are the major expense 2k for slicks, although if You widen the car and make it a GTA1 or GTA2 car You can run the RSR width rubber for 1200$/set, I know, I know, ironic!
Tires for DE cars cant be much different. And if You want the cheap date just run take offs for 500/set and You will get several sessions out of those sets although You wont ahve the STICKERS...heh heh...STICKERS...its a disease, there is no hope!
You can do a bunch of the work yourself, 996 Cup is Very easy to work on for example. Nut and bolt, string align, change fluids etc...all stuff You do on any track toy.
This is just a start, my wife just asked if I am writing a book...lol..obviously I am biased, passionate and an advocate but its for all the right reasons, I am a driver, an enthusiast,a husband, father and grandfather. I have a perspective based on experience. Its the most valuable thing I can share with my fellow enthusiasts. I hope it's taken that way, how its intended.
Last edited by Glen; 12-22-2010 at 12:49 AM.
12-22-2010, 03:03 AM
#29
GT3 player par excellence
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no ****, glen, you are a grand father? man, i am so so far behind ya....
12-22-2010, 03:46 AM
#30
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Got Your note, thanks and I understand although I think Your perception of what it costs is extremely skewed, not sure why but clearly not my experience.
Your point on how much a used Cup costs now is very valid, with the current price of used 6 and 7 Cups where they are, there is no cheaper date in bang for the buck overall.
Regards to safety its primariy because noone has wrecked more cars than the factory, they take them back study them and make changes to them every year based on everything they learn. When You see some of the horrific track incidents ive seen, You wont drive anything else. Kudos to You for the full cage, HANS etc... You are doing what You can. Fire system yet? Ever wonder why the factory uses mild steel instead of CROMO? Etc...
Like I said, been there done that, tried it all and this is where I ended up a almost a decade ago.
They are FAR FAR more durable than what is represented here, or the guys tearing them up early are hacks....sorry couldnt resist! LOL
My first one is still going strong on its original motor although he did have to refresh his gearbox last year, cost him like 4k to fix what he needed repaired and it has WAY WAY over 200 hrs.
Tire costs are the major expense 2k for slicks, although if You widen the car and make it a GTA1 or GTA2 car You can run the RSR width rubber for 1200$/set, I know, I know, ironic!
Tires for DE cars cant be much different. And if You want the cheap date just run take offs for 500/set and You will get several sessions out of those sets although You wont ahve the STICKERS...heh heh...STICKERS...its a disease, there is no hope!
You can do a bunch of the work yourself, 996 Cup is Very easy to work on for example. Nut and bolt, string align, change fluids etc...all stuff You do on any track toy.
This is just a start, my wife just asked if I am writing a book...lol..obviously I am biased, passionate and an advocate but its for all the right reasons, I am a driver, an enthusiast,a husband, father and grandfather. I have a perspective based on experience. Its the most valuable thing I can share with my fellow enthusiasts. I hope it's taken that way, how its intended.
Your point on how much a used Cup costs now is very valid, with the current price of used 6 and 7 Cups where they are, there is no cheaper date in bang for the buck overall.
Regards to safety its primariy because noone has wrecked more cars than the factory, they take them back study them and make changes to them every year based on everything they learn. When You see some of the horrific track incidents ive seen, You wont drive anything else. Kudos to You for the full cage, HANS etc... You are doing what You can. Fire system yet? Ever wonder why the factory uses mild steel instead of CROMO? Etc...
Like I said, been there done that, tried it all and this is where I ended up a almost a decade ago.
They are FAR FAR more durable than what is represented here, or the guys tearing them up early are hacks....sorry couldnt resist! LOL
My first one is still going strong on its original motor although he did have to refresh his gearbox last year, cost him like 4k to fix what he needed repaired and it has WAY WAY over 200 hrs.
Tire costs are the major expense 2k for slicks, although if You widen the car and make it a GTA1 or GTA2 car You can run the RSR width rubber for 1200$/set, I know, I know, ironic!
Tires for DE cars cant be much different. And if You want the cheap date just run take offs for 500/set and You will get several sessions out of those sets although You wont ahve the STICKERS...heh heh...STICKERS...its a disease, there is no hope!
You can do a bunch of the work yourself, 996 Cup is Very easy to work on for example. Nut and bolt, string align, change fluids etc...all stuff You do on any track toy.
This is just a start, my wife just asked if I am writing a book...lol..obviously I am biased, passionate and an advocate but its for all the right reasons, I am a driver, an enthusiast,a husband, father and grandfather. I have a perspective based on experience. Its the most valuable thing I can share with my fellow enthusiasts. I hope it's taken that way, how its intended.
Cheers
Mike