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Old 10-26-2015, 10:21 PM
  #46  
gmaki
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Alright so after burying myself in several "best oil" threads and other sites I have decided to just do what the manual says and put good ol' Mobil1 in there and that is what the wisdom tab will say as well.

So now that I have solved this one once and for all, I am going to head over to one of the LWB threads and wrap that one up to.
Old 10-28-2015, 03:35 PM
  #47  
Phokaioglaukos
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Originally Posted by gmaki
Alright so after burying myself in several "best oil" threads and other sites I have decided to just do what the manual says and put good ol' Mobil1 in there and that is what the wisdom tab will say as well.

So now that I have solved this one once and for all, I am going to head over to one of the LWB threads and wrap that one up to.
I'm sorry, but I cannot believe that you have settled on Mobil 1 without including in your post a detailed analysis and explanation of your thought process. Please do so now.
Old 10-28-2015, 05:11 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Phokaioglaukos
I'm sorry, but I cannot believe that you have settled on Mobil 1 without including in your post a detailed analysis and explanation of your thought process. Please do so now.
Well the point I didn't "decide" Mobil1 was the best choice, rather I avoided the detailed analysis altogether (after realizing I was not qualified to perform said analysis) and I am simply defaulting to what the manual says.

As someone pointed out once you dive into you find no clear consensus, but a lot of heated debate. For every person I found that was 100% certain that brand X was the only oil to use, there was another equally certain that Brand X was the worst and Brand Y was the only one.

In the end I am pretty confident that putting Mobil1 in my car at 1,300 miles is not going to destroy the motor.

But if there is an objective case to be made for or against it, I would love to hear it.
Old 11-06-2015, 02:46 PM
  #49  
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1) Is there a part number for the crush washer(s)? I assume if you order #9A110702400 (canister, filter, o-ring), it won't come with the crush washer.

2) Any other parts needed that I'm forgetting besides oil?

EDIT: Or if you just use crush washers from the hardware store, what is the size?

Last edited by vantage; 11-06-2015 at 06:00 PM.
Old 11-06-2015, 05:44 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by vantage
1) Is there a part number for the crush washer(s)? I assume if you order #9A110702400 (canister, filter, o-ring), it won't come with the crush washer.

2) Any other parts needed that I'm forgetting besides oil?
I always replace the drain plug ,its alloy and the 8mm allen can strip easily . There only $6. carl
Old 11-06-2015, 06:02 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by vantage
1) Is there a part number for the crush washer(s)? I assume if you order #9A110702400 (canister, filter, o-ring), it won't come with the crush washer
The canister kit does include the aluminum crush washer.
Old 11-06-2015, 06:08 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 4carl
I always replace the drain plug ,its alloy and the 8mm allen can strip easily . There only $6. carl
I bought a spare drain plug in 2006 when I bought my first Cayman. I still have it in its unopened bag.
The key to avoid stripping the plug is to fully seat the Allen wrench and to not over torque it (34 ftlb).
Old 11-22-2015, 08:55 PM
  #53  
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I changed my oil this afternoon. I wish I had not...what a mess. I can see why people recommend another drain plug - 37 Ft-lbs is a lot of force for an aluminum plug. 76mm filter wrench from advanced autoparts did the trick for the filter. A lot more than 7.5L came out in 20min. I put 7.5 back in and it was just two bars.
Old 11-22-2015, 09:22 PM
  #54  
Kelsey
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How much oil did you add..... Total. Thx
Old 11-22-2015, 09:51 PM
  #55  
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Long story short, I was in a hurry to get it to the Clear-bra place today, so I didn't finish filling it up. How many L per bar? I was 3 bars below full with 7.5L in.
Old 11-22-2015, 09:56 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Kelsey
How much oil did you add..... Total. Thx
As others have reported in this thread on pages 2 and 3, mine needed over 8 quarts. 8.5 individual quart bottles of Mobile 1 were used. With that many individual bottles, there is some residual oil left in each bottle.

Nearly 8 quarts were drained from the pan and there's another half or so in the filter.

So if I were you, I would buy 9 quarts. Fill 7.5 quarts initially. That will get you to the minimum oil level. Then depending on what the oil reading says, add what is required to get you to one bar below max.
Old 11-22-2015, 09:59 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
How many L per bar? I was 3 bars below full with 7.5L in.
The difference between the min and max levels is 1.8 quarts or 1.7L. There are four bars. So each bar is .45 quarts or .425 L.
Old 11-22-2015, 10:00 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by vantage
The difference between the min and max levels is 1.8 quarts or 1.7L. There are four bars. So each bar is .45 quarts or .425 L.
Ok, then seems like it needs about another L, so that will bring it up to 8.5L. Will post when I physically get it back to top off.
Old 11-22-2015, 10:06 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
Ok, then seems like it needs about another L, so that will bring it up to 8.5L. Will post when I physically get it back to top off.
Yes, though 8.5L total is almost 9 quarts, which seems a little high based on the capacities everyone is reporting. Maybe you had a lot of residual oil left in the bottles. In any case, add it in smaller increments to avoid an overshoot.
Old 11-22-2015, 10:17 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by vantage
Yes, though 8.5L total is almost 9 quarts, which seems a little high based on the capacities everyone is reporting. Maybe you had a lot of residual oil left in the bottles. In any case, add it in smaller increments to avoid an overshoot.
Car was really warm when I let it out, and I moved the angle around with a jack, which seemed to convince more to come out. The 10qt can was nearly to the brim, so 9qt sounds about right.


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