GT4 Oil Filter and Wrench
#106
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maybe that's what you need in order to have no leaks and crush the washer. The crazy thing is that all my Audi's and VW's always been 22 foot pounds you go figure
#107
Burning Brakes
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Yeah that has been my approach. Do what the manual says. But I do agree that 37 lbs just seems too much. It take a bit of courage to go those last few pounds.
#108
Nordschleife Master
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Look...it's so simple : just check for leaks afterwards. You're supposed to check anyway. If no leaks you're good. It's better than stripping the pan with insane torque specs. I don't care what the manual says,engineers have been wrong many times before. They don't have to work on the cars they produce. There's actually a very good explanation I've read somewhere about their constraints and build process. And why sometimes they are given a very limited space to design a system within a certain budget. And then we curse them because they have put the differential in the way of a bolt and now you have to remove the differential to pull out one stupid bolt etc.
#109
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FWIW, I've been changing oil/oil filters on my Caymans for 9+ years now and follow the book for filter and plug torque settings, use a good quality, tight fitting filter wrench, always seat my hex socket all the way in, and replace the crush washer (available separately BTW).
Although I purchased a spare drain plug in 2006 just in case, I've never needed it. If you properly insert the hex wrench and use a torque wrench, you won't have any issues.
As to why I use a torque wrench, why not? I'd rather be accurate than wonder. Besides, I need a wrench anyway, so why not use my torque wrench? But, maybe it's like my friend the electrician who says macho men always work on hot lines ... and he's got the burn marks to prove it!
Although I purchased a spare drain plug in 2006 just in case, I've never needed it. If you properly insert the hex wrench and use a torque wrench, you won't have any issues.
As to why I use a torque wrench, why not? I'd rather be accurate than wonder. Besides, I need a wrench anyway, so why not use my torque wrench? But, maybe it's like my friend the electrician who says macho men always work on hot lines ... and he's got the burn marks to prove it!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#110
Nordschleife Master
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FWIW, I've been changing oil/oil filters on my Caymans for 9+ years now and follow the book for filter and plug torque settings, use a good quality, tight fitting filter wrench, always seat my hex socket all the way in, and replace the crush washer (available separately BTW). Although I purchased a spare drain plug in 2006 just in case, I've never needed it. If you properly insert the hex wrench and use a torque wrench, you won't have any issues. As to why I use a torque wrench, why not? I'd rather be accurate than wonder. Besides, I need a wrench anyway, so why not use my torque wrench? But, maybe it's like my friend the electrician who says macho men always work on hot lines ... and he's got the burn marks to prove it! ![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#111
Burning Brakes
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FWIW, I've been changing oil/oil filters on my Caymans for 9+ years now and follow the book for filter and plug torque settings, use a good quality, tight fitting filter wrench, always seat my hex socket all the way in, and replace the crush washer (available separately BTW).
Although I purchased a spare drain plug in 2006 just in case, I've never needed it. If you properly insert the hex wrench and use a torque wrench, you won't have any issues.
As to why I use a torque wrench, why not? I'd rather be accurate than wonder. Besides, I need a wrench anyway, so why not use my torque wrench? But, maybe it's like my friend the electrician who says macho men always work on hot lines ... and he's got the burn marks to prove it!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Although I purchased a spare drain plug in 2006 just in case, I've never needed it. If you properly insert the hex wrench and use a torque wrench, you won't have any issues.
As to why I use a torque wrench, why not? I'd rather be accurate than wonder. Besides, I need a wrench anyway, so why not use my torque wrench? But, maybe it's like my friend the electrician who says macho men always work on hot lines ... and he's got the burn marks to prove it!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#112
Three Wheelin'
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Check with your dealer, probably not too expensive. When I picked up my filter/canister (with shipping, buying online wasn't any cheaper), I asked about crush washers and they gave me one for free. If I had noted the size, I probably could have found the same one in a hardware store.
#114
Addict & Guru
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Pelican Parts ($0.25)
RMeuropean ($0.16)
I've included a bunch when I've ordered other parts to get over the applicable free shipping threshold.
#115
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I've been torquing to whatever the Porsche recommended setting was. I believe it was 34 ft/lbs for my 2006 CS. I'll continue to follow the book for my GT4.
Pelican Parts ($0.25)
RMeuropean ($0.16)
I've included a bunch when I've ordered other parts to get over the applicable free shipping threshold.
Pelican Parts ($0.25)
RMeuropean ($0.16)
I've included a bunch when I've ordered other parts to get over the applicable free shipping threshold.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20...e/Oil_Service/
#116
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I did my break-in oil change at 1600mi exactly. I couldn't believe how much metal was in the oil. I've included a short clip of the captured oil but if it doesn't show up, imagine a bucket of metallic paint. With this knowledge, I will do an earlier oil change on any future Porsches. I also ran a rare-earth magnet through the oil and zero metal particles were picked up so it's probably aluminum and tin. I'd save money on adding magnets to the drain plug and filter to do an intermediate oil/filter change instead.
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/...psfu4vjdc8.mp4
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/...psfu4vjdc8.mp4
#120
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To clarify, the drained oil in the clip is a combination from the pan and filter canister. My concern is the oil bypass part in the bottom of the oil filter housing since prior Cayman owners reported a weak spring. I only realized the metal bits when I took the drain pan out into the sun. It wasn't noticeable in the garage while draining from either spots.
I'm doing another oil change after 1000 more miles to isolate and examine the oil from the pan itself. If metal still exists, I'll add an adapter to run a traditional canister filter with a higher rated bypass.
I'm doing another oil change after 1000 more miles to isolate and examine the oil from the pan itself. If metal still exists, I'll add an adapter to run a traditional canister filter with a higher rated bypass.