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Servotronic is listed as 1N3 Variable Assist power steering. Mine is whiney especially at low speeds, was wondering if the noise at speed may be related. I searched here and we aren't the only ones with this sound or symptom.

 

I'm curious, if just a fluid change actually fixes the problem, why doesn't the dealer just change the fluid for $45 versus change the whole transfer case for 100x that? What's the longest mileage the fluid change has kept the thumping/rough shifting at bay? I think your Ravenol only lasted 4000 miles, right?

 

You're correct. I went back to factory fluid - drove it about 4,000 miles home - and it's up to a bit of mischief again. Not so awful that I'm immediately planning on replacing the case - but enough that I'm happy I still have 3 years and 15,000 miles left on my extended warranty. I suspect I'll be using it..

 

So interesting (and depressing) that these clutches get so "overworked" that they degrade the oil so quickly that the symptoms return relatively soon.

Also, you found the factory oil did not hold up any longer than the Ravenol, correct?

I wonder which iteration of the transfer case will finally not have this problem. Anyone known to have a failure of the most recent transfer case part version?

 

I'm hesitant to say if the factory fluid "failed" that quickly - or if the transfer case wore more when it had the Ravenol in it - and the factory fluid can't fix it now. Right now I'm still suggesting people use the factory fluid if they decide to change the transfer case fluid. In driving it today I paid very close attention to the shift quality and for any odd feelings - and can't say I noticed any. I can feel the shifts a bit - but I feel all of them - not just the 2-3, 3-4. I'm giving thought to resetting my transmission adaptations. As far as I can find with the iCarScan - there is no reset for the transfer case except for the oil wear indicator number, that I think is calculated by the amount of power that has gone through the transfer case. As far as I know - I don't think that changes any computer control of the case - but I might as well try it and see if there is any real change in performance.

 

Hi Kramer- Indeed I did last night and came to report I do have Servotronic. No wonder it's sooo easy to steer in parking lots. I'm going to totally agree I feel mine at low speeds like between stoplights and such. It is somewhat like a power steering pump gone dry but doesn't groan when working the wheel back and forth. Definitely on normal around town and decel on the hiway. Not sure of the speed range there. My oil change to the TC hasn't really held up at ~400 miles and clearly had no effect on the weird feedback to the steering wheel. I think it feels and sounds like a differential gear setup worn or out of adjustment.

I'm not sure which bugs me more, the TC or the feedback. It's both.

I also feel like I have a lazy torque converter. Sometimes from stop it isn't ready and I get a firm engagement after I hit the pedal. Anyone else?

My first Porsche.

 

Don - sorry to hear the Porsche fluid didn't seem to fix it. Glad you have that warranty.

Mine doesn't seem to be behaving badly yet, but reading that is making me want to change my Ravenol out again sooner rather than later. Slightly worried about doing so with the crack I dingus'd into the rear cover the first time. Maybe taking more care with a non-junk torque wrench set properly and I'll be able to get one more fluid exchange without needing to weld it, or using a fluid extraction pump through the fill hole. (I know, that won't get all of it, but it may get enough of the contaminated/deteriorated fluid out to prolong it's life) However I do it, I'd like to make sure it's in decent health, as I'm supposed to be taking part in a snow-hill-climb event late March, and April 1st is opening day for Silver Lake Sand Dunes.

I still haven't found much (anything) regarding doing the rebuild. I've sent an email to AWD.TECH (Lithuanian company selling the parts and rebuilt transfer cases) to see if they can help with some more information regarding the rebuild procedure. I've never rebuilt a transfer case myself yet, and these seem more complex than a generic unit, so it's not a procedure I'd feel comfortable tackling blindly. I'll be sure to update with what they say.

edde - I get a firm engagement occasionally from a standstill. Sometimes feels like the motor and transmission mounts are allowing too much play, but my paranoia tells me it's the transfer case.

 

With a PIWIS, when performing the transfer case oil service function, the wear integrator parameters get reset (all but the roll-over counter) but it also performs a "forced calibration" procedure as well.

 

If no one minds I'd like to offer a couple of thoughts about torque and wrenches from my experience. I would never use a clicker type wrench on low torque 30 ft lbs or under -and even then if they're not known to be accurately calibrated? 75-150 ft lbs, ok. Otherwise no. If it doesn't click when it needs to I'm potentially in real trouble. I use a 3/8 drive bendy style mostly, they're actually pretty consistent. And I still get a feel to what I'm messing with. I'm less likely to overdue something since I'm not relying on the click. And I'm mostly concerned with torquing big things that can't be short.
Second, torque specs are often based on threads that are treated a certain way. Clean, chased with a tap, oiled, moly-lubed, etc. Our TC has a thread sealant so perhaps it's based on that stuff on new parts but in any case, it's a tapered thread so it is going to seal pretty easily. It really shouldn't crack a case but it certainly is possible. I didn't find a stop when reinstalling mine so it isn't clear where to stop. I could have put more on it, but it's not backing out. Take a good pic of it before starting if you aren't confident for whatever reason. But I never use a clicker on smallish stuff. I learned by putting a clicker on a 5 ft lb bolt and the head just twisted off like a bottle cap.

projekt-h - that is an interesting thought. I kind of figure a transfer case is in my near future so in the scheme of things that would be great for me.

I need to figure out to attach a stethoscope to my drivetrain components while I'm going 10 mph. See what roars.

 

Eddie - good idea with the stethoscope. Is the noise at all gear/engine speed related? Have you tried shifting into neutral and coasting when you hear it? One thought - given your description of it - is tire noise. Some tires are noisy (the Michelin Latitudes that came on my pig were..) If the noise is basically road speed related - it's possible tires are to blame.

And on the torque wrench - I agree in this case unless you have a good Snap-On dial low-torque wrench. I have a 1/4" drive one that's good for inch-pounds. 144 in/lbs = 12ft/lbs. When I changed it in California - I used a 3" long simple Allen wrench to hand tighten them "snug".. knowing that with 3" I'm not going to be over-torqueing them.

 

Post #'s 112 & 115 in this same thread, for picture of inch/pound torque wrench. I agree, everyone should have one.
.... keep in mind it is the handle that makes it so precise. The handle pivots on a center pin, which allows the tool to use the exact length from the socket (to give your reading). You can see the pin in the pic in post # 115....

Quick jump link:
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...er-case-8.html

=Steve

 

Yes indeed, I have thought about tires, these are Pirelli Scorpion 265/50 19's in very new condition. I would say it seems more load related than speed at least on the highway. The car is still new to me but I am getting more comfortable every day - for testing purposes. Other than rotating I'm not sure how I'm going to firm that idea up.

I should have added a caveat for a quality clicker. It just seemed like maybe there were some folks not too confident about those plugs - I know so many people who have NO idea how to wrench. Hard to tell when new to a forum.

 

I think I have my noise narrowed down to an engine vibration on deceleration at certain speeds / rpm. I may change out the torque arm and see if it helps, maybe the engine is moving too much. It's definitely not the diff or transfer case.

 

I lke this ^^^

Have you had chance to watch it while goosing the gas a little?

 

Not yet, but I will take a look when I get a chance and look at the rubber bushing inside it. Torque arm is cheap, under $100.