When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know this post is about a year old but believe you are still active here so would really apprecaite some of your knowledge.
I'm gearing up to do the same work on my 2012 CS (I scoped my engine through the oil fill port and verified the same plastic guide is broken). I have no CEL and engine is running smooth but dont want to risk this getting worse.
Had a few questions:
1. Did you replace any of the Cam locking Bolts?
2. What size ETorx bolts are the Cam lock bolts? (I cannot for the life of me find the size of the head and my set only goes up to E20)
3. What size wrench do I need for the cam gear Hex's?
Im sure i'll have other questions but any help is apprecaited.
sigh, I went through this crap on my 540i, what an idiotic design... some things never change. im at 180k on my S now so I guess we will see.
yeah it only took a week and some special cam lock tools to align the camshafts
I know this post is about a year old but believe you are still active here so would really apprecaite some of your knowledge.
I'm gearing up to do the same work on my 2012 CS (I scoped my engine through the oil fill port and verified the same plastic guide is broken). I have no CEL and engine is running smooth but dont want to risk this getting worse.
Had a few questions:
1. Did you replace any of the Cam locking Bolts?
2. What size ETorx bolts are the Cam lock bolts? (I cannot for the life of me find the size of the head and my set only goes up to E20)
3. What size wrench do I need for the cam gear Hex's?
Im sure i'll have other questions but any help is apprecaited.
Regards,
Demon
Yes, on the bolts,..not very expensive
Torx is E25
And that hex is a 32mm or 35mm....can't exactly remember
You definitely want to get a subscription to AllDataDIY. Couldn't have done it without it..Good luck!
It's the E24,..and yes, the AllDataDIY is very good about torque specs, etc., but doesn't always show anything about tools, unless it's a specific Porsche tool. Speaking of, the camshaft locking tool, you can pick that up on Amazon for around $100. The Porsche version comes in a pretty white box for which you pay an extra $600 for
18466851[/url]]It's the E24,..and yes, the AllDataDIY is very good about torque specs, etc., but doesn't always show anything about tools, unless it's a specific Porsche tool. Speaking of, the camshaft locking tool, you can pick that up on Amazon for around $100. The Porsche version comes in a pretty white box for which you pay an extra $600 for
perfect! Thanks for clarification. I was starting to question my ability to use the internet trying to find an E25 torx. 😂
as for the staking tool - already ordered an eBay especial for about $80. I’m sure it’s all the same knock off goodness 👍🏽 (Sorry. The pretty white box isn’t worth $600 to me 😉
perfect! Thanks for clarification. I was starting to question my ability to use the internet trying to find an E25 torx. 😂
as for the staking tool - already ordered an eBay especial for about $80. I’m sure it’s all the same knock off goodness 👍🏽 (Sorry. The pretty white box isn’t worth $600 to me 😉
Sounds good,...keep us posted on your progress and please feel free to fill in any gaps in my original post. I want this to be a valuable forum resource for those of us with V8s who have wrenching skills and don't see a need to pay the dealer $7,000
18466944[/url]]Sounds good,...keep us posted on your progress and please feel free to fill in any gaps in my original post. I want this to be a valuable forum resource for those of us with V8s and who have wrenching skills and don't see a need to pay the dealer $7,000
certainly Will my friend. I may turn on the GoPro while I do it and record the entire process with some narrative as well. Haven’t decided yet. But will document the process for sure.
thanks again brother and good to know there’s people like you around who are willing to share your knowledge and expertise!
today I remembered that i have a small camera and looked trough the oilcap if I can see the chain guide and there was no plastic.
my simptomes are here and there the p0016 code and psm light on the dash and a message that the start/stop does not work. However this error is intermitted, only in the morning and not always. My indy told me he do not want to do the job if i think to cheap out.
now my question is what should I do change beside of the chain and the tensioners and guides. Oil pump? Water pump? Pulleys?
Last edited by zmaj; Nov 24, 2022 at 03:41 PM.
Reason: Added picture
today I remembered that i have a small camera and looked trough the oilcap if I can see the chain guide and there was no plastic.
my simptomes are here and there the p0016 code and psm light on the dash and a message that the start/stop does not work. However this error is intermitted, only in the morning and not always. My indy told me he do not want to do the job if i think to cheap out.
now my question is what should I do change beside of the chain and the tensioners and guides. Oil pump? Water pump? Pulleys?
It may be intermittent now, but the CEL will eventually be constant. My CS ran fine with no chain slap and others have reported similar. Even still, it's something you must repair and soon. I would plan to use new bolts for the camshaft sprockets and crank harmonic balancer. When you remove the timing cover, expect to find 3 or 4 snapped aluminum screws so plan to use all new screws there. Don't over torque those screws! I've seen posts where some owners now use steel screws for replacements. Replace the water pump, valve cover and intake manifold gaskets. New serpentine belt and for those idler pulleys, optional. Mine were OK and you can always easily do those later at any time if they start to squeal. New timing cover gasket set and crankshaft seal. Using my procedure, it's not possible to replace the oil pump or its drive chain.
It may be intermittent now, but the CEL will eventually be constant. My CS ran fine with no chain slap and others have reported similar. Even still, it's something you must repair and soon. I would plan to use new bolts for the camshaft sprockets and crank harmonic balancer. When you remove the timing cover, expect to find 3 or 4 snapped aluminum screws so plan to use all new screws there. Don't over torque those screws! I've seen posts where some owners now use steel screws for replacements. Replace the water pump, valve cover and intake manifold gaskets. New serpentine belt and for those idler pulleys, optional. Mine were OK and you can always easily do those later at any time if they start to squeal. Using my procedure, it's not possible to replace the oil pump or its drive chain.
Good luck..
Hi, I plan to change the complete distribution belt with all pulleys. btw also to paint the valve cover in the car color (meteorgrau) for the extra point
Now for the timing chain I am searching for the iwis set but in europe is not available. My indy told me not to buy aic and Febi (told me better to order Hepu, best original) what I can see that the Febi chain is iwis and so do the aic. they are somewhere 650 eur.
If i order something from the US my customs are slapping me with almost 50% tax (and they will account the total bill with Shipping costs).
Appart from the chain are there better guides for the chain or are all the same?
Also what oil do You use? Until now I used 0w40 Mobil1
I purchased the Timing Cover Gasket Set, Timing Chain Kit, and Crankshaft Seal from FCP Euro. Part numbers and prices shown below. I don't know of any alternate chain guides where the plastic (phenolic) is any different or better/worse. As for alternate chains, I'm not personally familiar with any. IWIS seems to have a very good reputation. They are German based and show OEM for several name brand auto manufacturers. I see a HEPU on eBay HEPU - Timing Chain Kit. Looks identical to the IWIS kit from FCP except for the tensioner. I posted earlier that I actually like the tensioner that comes in the kit from FCP over OEM --- tensioner works hydraulically and the oil filler hole is slightly larger than OEM.
If you look at part of this posting thread on 12-14-2021, 05:52 PM,..you'll see where I noted the IWIS parts look to be OEM Porsche, but the part numbers are scratched off for some weird reason.
This FCP Euro part number - Porsche Engine Timing Chain Kit - IWIS 90001148KT is probably the best buy (as of today $1115.74). You get the cover gasket set, the crank seal, cam sprocket bolts, and crank harmonic balancer bolt included.