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My 2012 CTT with 108k just had the vent line fail on me. I had noticed a bit of a drip on the garage floor but thought it was a minor oil leak I've been putting off for warmer weather here in Chicago. Was driving on the expressway when my low coolant light went on and the temp rapidly went to max. I pulled off the road and the car there was a good amount of steam coming off the engine but none from the exhaust so I knew it was one of the usual coolant leaks rather than something catastrophic. I had my shop do the repair and discussed doing t-stat and water pump but opted against as I'm on the fence about getting a different vehicle (ideally another Cayenne) and my shop didn't think it was necessary and they are quite good.
OK. Just looking for some clarity. I had my pipe stub on the coolant distributor (the thing connecting the rear of the heads) pinned this past week. I had gotten a few coolant smell sniffs and this was the only common failure point I hadn't addressed. Porsche wanted $4,000 to do it - R&R of the engine and all that involves, replacement of the cooling distributor, etc. I went to a private shop (Provost Motorsports, Bordentown NJ) that charged me less than 1/4 of that amount. They did have to R&R the HPFP - which was expected - and they naturally replaced all the seals, drive-bushing for HPFP, intake manifold seals etc. Parts were about $300, labor about $600. The last time another shop was looking for leaks they replaced the hose that is the subject of this thread, so that's not an issue. My hope is - I can be leak-free for another 50,000 miles or so.
If you're in the Philly or southern-NJ area I can highly recommend Provost Motorsports. Good people, they knew exactly what I wanted (they've done enough pipe-pinning on 996, 997 models) and their pricing was fair.
OK. Just looking for some clarity. I had my pipe stub on the coolant distributor (the thing connecting the rear of the heads) pinned this past week. I had gotten a few coolant smell sniffs and this was the only common failure point I hadn't addressed. Porsche wanted $4,000 to do it - R&R of the engine and all that involves, replacement of the cooling distributor, etc. I went to a private shop (Provost Motorsports, Bordentown NJ) that charged me less than 1/4 of that amount. They did have to R&R the HPFP - which was expected - and they naturally replaced all the seals, drive-bushing for HPFP, intake manifold seals etc. Parts were about $300, labor about $600. The last time another shop was looking for leaks they replaced the hose that is the subject of this thread, so that's not an issue. My hope is - I can be leak-free for another 50,000 miles or so.
If you're in the Philly or southern-NJ area I can highly recommend Provost Motorsports. Good people, they knew exactly what I wanted (they've done enough pipe-pinning on 996, 997 models) and their pricing was fair.
I'm not in South Jersey, but hood to know. Seems like there are lots of good shops in NJ. I've had minor coolant smell since I got the CS. No leaks visible, coolant level good. Assuming it's in the V, but haven't seen anything there either.
Doing this now. Does the fuel rail need to be removed to reinstall vent line? Any tips on fuel rail removal if so?
I didn't, but it was quite difficult to shimmy it in there w/o breaking. I decided to tie it off (to narrow it) with some dental floss, which let me slip it under the rail. Then I cut the floss and shifted it properly into position.
I didn't, but it was quite difficult to shimmy it in there w/o breaking. I decided to tie it off (to narrow it) with some dental floss, which let me slip it under the rail. Then I cut the floss and shifted it properly into position.
Good luck.
Thanks. I ended up removing rail... actually wasn't that hard but did have a little gas that needed to be cleaned up. I was worried about breaking it again (dealer charged me more than 2x than online to get local) so didn't want to buy another $100 tube. lol. Hope this fixes it.
Twodollardoug ... good question ... here's my thinking. I physically checked and it's still very tight with no indications of coming apart. The original thermostat housing glue was also in great shape and the pipes are solid ... so I decided to go with it as is since there are no indications of failure. I decided to go ahead and replace the thermostat housing with the upgraded part because I'd already ordered the part and I had all of this apart so I could trace the original leak and I wanted to replace the thermostat and the water pump anyway. Finally, I pressurized the system after everything was back together to check and no problems at 20 psi. I then put a vacuum on the system and it held steady at -25 in-mg which I then used to fill the system with a vacuum filling tool I have. It passed all these tests, so I decided to leave it as it is and move on. You can really go crazy with "while you're in there" fixes and at some point, I just have to set limits. That's why I did not do anything to the last remaining glued fitting in the rear manifold. Make sense?
Its all back together now and working great. Here are comparison photos of the old and upgraded thermostat housings ... at least two of the three glued fittings are now gone out of the car!
Sure I missed it, but do you (does anyone) know the part number for the newer/upgraded/fixed housing with the bolt design vs glued in as depicted in this picture? Gracias
*EDIT: found it! lol sorry!!! Part Number for the Thermostat Housing with the bolts and NOT glued in: 948-106-080-02
now, I have to decide if I should purchase the part, or just do what some others have done and save some money by basically re-doing the glued in version with marine JBweld.
Last edited by ElSpoon958; 08-17-2022 at 01:54 AM.
Hi all. Three weeks ago had a shop replace a coolant vent line after I smelled coolant and saw it with borescope saw in the V valley.
They did the vent line and its o rings, flushed the coolant. Well, couple of days ago I just in case checked coolant level and it was still above the reservoir sensor prongs by an inch (a little low but they may have not topped it off properly I thought). Anyway, I was about to drive to P dealership today for headlight adjusters recall and low coolant came up. I thought air bubbles would leave long ago so I am leaning toward some other leak point?
UPD. Toped it off with 8oz. of distilled water to go over the prongs. Attached a video from underneath the car where there are a few drops of coolant. Additionally there was some spitting noise, maybe air pump venting pressure? (nevermind broken radiator louvers motor noise)
01-02-2021, 12:13 PM
