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i have to look into this. It’s both rear windows that don’t work and shades don’t work lol. I do have blind spot Lca too gonna look for a window switch see what happens
If you find a replacement switch with the LCA button - please DO post it here.. I've never been able to find one.
There may be a way to test your switches before throwing parts at the car and hoping to get lucky. I just don't know how that testing occurs. Perhaps there's someone on the forum that can offer a suggestion or a YouTube link. I recently learned how to test relays on a different car I own. Now that was fun once I figured out how to read the relay diagram and make it activate with a 12v power source. Felt quite accomplished... lol
If you have an iCarScan - you can read the status of the switches at the module the switch connects to.. easy to test if a switch has gone bad. (It will read things lie for a window "up pressed" "off" "down pressed" - something like that.)
Theres also one in the UK for 80 bucks but beat up
I’ve just purchased this so I hope this will cure my issue, separately I bought the little pieces mentioned earlier to fix the rear shade windows (2 pieces ) hoping to cure my window issue(s)
Theres also one in the UK for 80 bucks but beat up
I’ve just purchased this so I hope this will cure my issue, separately I bought the little pieces mentioned earlier to fix the rear shade windows (2 pieces ) hoping to cure my window issue(s)
MayorMcCheese... make sure you look at the diy section and read the thread carefully. The hardest part of the whole thing is getting the window shade rod disconnected from the motor and the window shade frame.
You can pull up on the door panel and it will unhook from the motor. However, in order to put the door panel back on, the rod has to be disconnected from the shade's frame and then reinserted after the panel is on the door. Getting that piece of metal disconnected from the shade frame was terrible for me on both doors. I used a vise grip to hold the rod very tightly and with the help of an assistant, tapped it with a hammer a few times to have it unhook. I think there were two designs used from the factory so I think my experience was different than the other person who tackled this job and posted the how-to. There are much more details I provided in my notes.
Also note that once the door panel is off, there is a secondary plastic panel attached to the door. This one is damn near impossible to remove unless you disassemble a whole bunch of other things. Instead, loosen the plastic nuts and put your hand in there to feel around for the two screws you'll have to loosen (I suggest removing one screw and loosening the other so the bracket is still positioned in the right place when you go to reinstall the motor assembly). Wear a long sleeve shirt when you do this. You're going to get cut up. I guarantee it! Let us know how it goes.
As an update I tried the new window switch with lane keep and still doesn't let the rear windows down but ill keep it, nice being all chrome and firm feeling again
gotta atleast fix the rear shades hoping i may see a cure for the windows while doing it.
As an update I tried the new window switch with lane keep and still doesn't let the rear windows down but ill keep it, nice being all chrome and firm feeling again
gotta atleast fix the rear shades hoping i may see a cure for the windows while doing it.
You do have a diagnostics tool right? The iCarScan has a function to observe the state of the switches - ie - press a window switch up and it tells you if the window module sees that press. That avoids unnecessary parts replacement. Usually. Sometimes. One can also activate the up/down on the windows using the diagnostics software - so you can see if it's a problem with the window mechanism or window module.
I just used the DIY to replace the plastic gears after a failed driver's rear sun shade. The shade would extend fully to cover the window but would become "possessed" when trying to drop it into the door and move the little covering flap up and down constantly until the shade was extended again.
I purchased both of the plastic gears listed below (two of each for when the passenger side fails). The white double gear BGE547 was the one that failed so it was replaced with new grease. Sun shade worked great after repair and didn't require relearning the limits. Took three hours including finding tools and talking to the wife. The white double gear was sitting a little proud after installed and had to be shaved down slightly to fit correctly. The inside of the large side of the gear had an extra nub not present on the factory part.
I've just replaced the second set on my 2013 Cayenne GTS. First time it was a pain. This time was much easier, probably 2 hours. I think I have the process figured out now. The hardest part is separating the blind from the riser rod. Many say there is a metal clip underneath the middle roller on the shade. I couldn't seem to get it to release either time so resorted to brute strength. Attach vise grips on the rod just under top of shade. using the vise grips as a fulcrum, pry against the top of the shade with a screwdriver, and the rod will pop out. Clear sailing from there. Just push back in on re-assembly.
I replaced one of mine with the Bross gears and it went reasonably well in terms of the mechanics of raising and lowering the shade.
I have not, however, been able to calibrate it to stop when it raises, it goes up and then right back down (smoothly at least, lol). I've tried a couple of times to do the calibration procedure but have yet to find the right combination/timing.
03-28-2019, 11:45 AM
