9" Android Radio Install Review
#706
Stupid question. How do you manage to split the screen?
My unit seems to have that function. I just cannot find it.
It is of course really useful while using the Navigator as it allows me to control thematic at the same time.
Thanks in advance
p.s. the reversing camera has been finally delivered. In the next few days I will try to install it.
I have purchased the one that replaces the plate light.
I have no clue about cables, where and how pass them inside the boot door.
Any tutorial of tip?
My unit seems to have that function. I just cannot find it.
It is of course really useful while using the Navigator as it allows me to control thematic at the same time.
Thanks in advance
p.s. the reversing camera has been finally delivered. In the next few days I will try to install it.
I have purchased the one that replaces the plate light.
I have no clue about cables, where and how pass them inside the boot door.
Any tutorial of tip?
#707
Advanced
#708
Advanced
Stupid question. How do you manage to split the screen?
My unit seems to have that function. I just cannot find it.
It is of course really useful while using the Navigator as it allows me to control thematic at the same time.
Thanks in advance
p.s. the reversing camera has been finally delivered. In the next few days I will try to install it.
I have purchased the one that replaces the plate light.
I have no clue about cables, where and how pass them inside the boot door.
Any tutorial of tip?
My unit seems to have that function. I just cannot find it.
It is of course really useful while using the Navigator as it allows me to control thematic at the same time.
Thanks in advance
p.s. the reversing camera has been finally delivered. In the next few days I will try to install it.
I have purchased the one that replaces the plate light.
I have no clue about cables, where and how pass them inside the boot door.
Any tutorial of tip?
I have been doing it slowly. Working a few hours after work everyday. I finished my electrical hook ups. You remove the head unit and the glove box to run the cables. The glove box doesn't have to be completely removed, just enough to drop it down to route the cables from the headunit area to behind the glovebox. I have an 8 channel amplifier with DSP to run the doors and dash, and another amp to run a sub in the trunk. Everything is good electrically. I am now in the process of running my wires. I am "trying" to run my cables under the door sill trim. This isn't the simple job it has been in other cars I have owned. The door sill trim doesn't just pop off. It requires popping off the silver trim, removing the 2 screws underneath(2 in the front and 2 in the rear passenger area) and removing the B-pillar. The B-pillar doesn't just pop off either, it requires removing a screw behind the plastic connector that is labeld "Airbag". The camera cable is more than long enough to reach all the way to the tailgate. The problem I am now having, is that now that the cables are run, I can't get the B-pillar to line back up so I can finish. I think my cable run is too thick, and is throwing off the positioning. My run has RCAs(4 channels and a sub), Speaker cables(four 12 gauge speaker wires), and the video cable. I also have an issue on the driver side where I am running my power and remote on cable. The battery has a cover, so I can't run my 1/0 power cable directly to it. I had to connect it to the junction box that is directly to the left of the battery case. However, there isn't enough space to position the fuse and holder inside the junction box, so I had to position it about 24 inches from the junction box. That big fuse holder is NOT going to be able to run under the carpet. I had decided I wanted to do this install myself, like I normally do, and just take it to a shop to replace the door and dash speakers later. At this point, I am seriously considering just saying screw it, and take it to the installer to finish the job.
Now since the only cable you would be running is the video cable, I don't think you would have a fitting problem when re-installing the door sill trims or the B-pillar. I don't know if routing it above in the roof area or down below in the floor area would be better. I have just always routed cables below the door sill trim, so I went with what I know. For the actuall camera installation, it was always my plan to just let the installer do that, after I verify that it works. In fact, my initial plan was to just get signal and power to my amps, and then set up the head unit and amplifiers, and let the installer do everything else(cable runs, etc.). In hindsight, I should have stuck with that plan. LOL.
Edited to add: I don't know if it is because of my Alpine amp, or the actual app itself, but when I use the built in "amplifier" app, the fade controls don't appear to work(fading to the rear gets no sound), and if the fade controls are used, it will start making a weird sound, and then lock the system up, requiring a reboot. If the built in app is just used for controlling the sub or the equalizer, there is no problem though. When I was using the high inputs(before hooking up my amps), it wasn't doing that. So something about the low outputs going to the amps that the app doesn't like.
Last edited by sgtm7; 02-10-2020 at 03:51 AM.
#709
I haven't explored any split screen options. I use Waze for Navigation, and it is integrated with several music apps. You just have to enable it in the settings of Waze, and the programs you use for music. I use Spotify and Deezer, and they both have Waze integration. If enabled, when in Waze, you will have a floating control button for the music app; when in the music app, you have the next turn portion at the top of the music app, and voice guidance continues as normal.
I have been doing it slowly. Working a few hours after work everyday. I finished my electrical hook ups. You remove the head unit and the glove box to run the cables. The glove box doesn't have to be completely removed, just enough to drop it down to route the cables from the headunit area to behind the glovebox. I have an 8 channel amplifier with DSP to run the doors and dash, and another amp to run a sub in the trunk. Everything is good electrically. I am now in the process of running my wires. I am "trying" to run my cables under the door sill trim. This isn't the simple job it has been in other cars I have owned. The door sill trim doesn't just pop off. It requires popping off the silver trim, removing the 2 screws underneath(2 in the front and 2 in the rear passenger area) and removing the B-pillar. The B-pillar doesn't just pop off either, it requires removing a screw behind the plastic connector that is labeld "Airbag". The camera cable is more than long enough to reach all the way to the tailgate. The problem I am now having, is that now that the cables are run, I can't get the B-pillar to line back up so I can finish. I think my cable run is too thick, and is throwing off the positioning. My run has RCAs(4 channels and a sub), Speaker cables(four 12 gauge speaker wires), and the video cable. I also have an issue on the driver side where I am running my power and remote on cable. The battery has a cover, so I can't run my 1/0 power cable directly to it. I had to connect it to the junction box that is directly to the left of the battery case. However, there isn't enough space to position the fuse and holder inside the junction box, so I had to position it about 24 inches from the junction box. That big fuse holder is NOT going to be able to run under the carpet. I had decided I wanted to do this install myself, like I normally do, and just take it to a shop to replace the door and dash speakers later. At this point, I am seriously considering just saying screw it, and take it to the installer to finish the job.
Now since the only cable you would be running is the video cable, I don't think you would have a fitting problem when re-installing the door sill trims or the B-pillar. I don't know if routing it above in the roof area or down below in the floor area would be better. I have just always routed cables below the door sill trim, so I went with what I know. For the actuall camera installation, it was always my plan to just let the installer do that, after I verify that it works. In fact, my initial plan was to just get signal and power to my amps, and then set up the head unit and amplifiers, and let the installer do everything else(cable runs, etc.). In hindsight, I should have stuck with that plan. LOL.
Edited to add: I don't know if it is because of my Alpine amp, or the actual app itself, but when I use the built in "amplifier" app, the fade controls don't appear to work(fading to the rear gets no sound), and if the fade controls are used, it will start making a weird sound, and then lock the system up, requiring a reboot. If the built in app is just used for controlling the sub or the equalizer, there is no problem though. When I was using the high inputs(before hooking up my amps), it wasn't doing that. So something about the low outputs going to the amps that the app doesn't like.
I have been doing it slowly. Working a few hours after work everyday. I finished my electrical hook ups. You remove the head unit and the glove box to run the cables. The glove box doesn't have to be completely removed, just enough to drop it down to route the cables from the headunit area to behind the glovebox. I have an 8 channel amplifier with DSP to run the doors and dash, and another amp to run a sub in the trunk. Everything is good electrically. I am now in the process of running my wires. I am "trying" to run my cables under the door sill trim. This isn't the simple job it has been in other cars I have owned. The door sill trim doesn't just pop off. It requires popping off the silver trim, removing the 2 screws underneath(2 in the front and 2 in the rear passenger area) and removing the B-pillar. The B-pillar doesn't just pop off either, it requires removing a screw behind the plastic connector that is labeld "Airbag". The camera cable is more than long enough to reach all the way to the tailgate. The problem I am now having, is that now that the cables are run, I can't get the B-pillar to line back up so I can finish. I think my cable run is too thick, and is throwing off the positioning. My run has RCAs(4 channels and a sub), Speaker cables(four 12 gauge speaker wires), and the video cable. I also have an issue on the driver side where I am running my power and remote on cable. The battery has a cover, so I can't run my 1/0 power cable directly to it. I had to connect it to the junction box that is directly to the left of the battery case. However, there isn't enough space to position the fuse and holder inside the junction box, so I had to position it about 24 inches from the junction box. That big fuse holder is NOT going to be able to run under the carpet. I had decided I wanted to do this install myself, like I normally do, and just take it to a shop to replace the door and dash speakers later. At this point, I am seriously considering just saying screw it, and take it to the installer to finish the job.
Now since the only cable you would be running is the video cable, I don't think you would have a fitting problem when re-installing the door sill trims or the B-pillar. I don't know if routing it above in the roof area or down below in the floor area would be better. I have just always routed cables below the door sill trim, so I went with what I know. For the actuall camera installation, it was always my plan to just let the installer do that, after I verify that it works. In fact, my initial plan was to just get signal and power to my amps, and then set up the head unit and amplifiers, and let the installer do everything else(cable runs, etc.). In hindsight, I should have stuck with that plan. LOL.
Edited to add: I don't know if it is because of my Alpine amp, or the actual app itself, but when I use the built in "amplifier" app, the fade controls don't appear to work(fading to the rear gets no sound), and if the fade controls are used, it will start making a weird sound, and then lock the system up, requiring a reboot. If the built in app is just used for controlling the sub or the equalizer, there is no problem though. When I was using the high inputs(before hooking up my amps), it wasn't doing that. So something about the low outputs going to the amps that the app doesn't like.
Wow. it seems you are doing an amazing job.
I used to do similar things when I was younger and with smaller cars.
I actually don't have much time and passion for that anymore.
But I know what you are talking about.
I am a big DIY person. It's not about money. It's about the passione for that priceless: "I have done it myself".
Anyway. I was not considering to run the wires under the door sill and I will have a look. Thanks for that tip.
Will see.
Thanks
#710
Advanced
Yeah, it is not about the money for me either. Especially with me living in a place that has cheaper labor than in the USA. It is the satisfaction of being able to say I did it myself. Plus, I like the idea of knowing exactly what was done. So if I have any problems/issues later, I know what was and/or wasn't done. But I am not young anymore, and I have more money and less patience then when I was younger. Years ago, I would do it on a weekend, and stay up into the night until it was finished. Not anymore. So yesterday night, I dropped it off with my installer to finish the job. Having them run the wires, install new speakers in the doors and dash, and install the backup camera. Cost of labor and shop supplies will be 840AED(USD 228).
As far as the camera install goes, you are right, most places on the web have you bringing it up the A-pillar. I was trying to run it on the floor, because I already needed to run audio cables there anyway.
As far as the camera install goes, you are right, most places on the web have you bringing it up the A-pillar. I was trying to run it on the floor, because I already needed to run audio cables there anyway.
#711
Advanced
Final Update:
Stereo install complete. My installer pretty much went the same route I had already set up for my cable run. He had to remove the front passenger seat to be able to get the wire far enough under the carpet to enable re-installation of the B-pillar. I had him install 2 sets of component speakers, each speaker running off of one channel of my 8 channel amplifier. I am still experimenting with tuning the amplifier. It is an DSP amplifier made by Alpine(model PDP-E800DSP). I am new to tuning, and I haven't got the sound quite "right" yet, but is interesting learning how to do it.
Stereo install complete. My installer pretty much went the same route I had already set up for my cable run. He had to remove the front passenger seat to be able to get the wire far enough under the carpet to enable re-installation of the B-pillar. I had him install 2 sets of component speakers, each speaker running off of one channel of my 8 channel amplifier. I am still experimenting with tuning the amplifier. It is an DSP amplifier made by Alpine(model PDP-E800DSP). I am new to tuning, and I haven't got the sound quite "right" yet, but is interesting learning how to do it.
#712
I recently purchased 08 GTS that has one of these Android head units already installed. It's one of the ones w/ the two SD card slots, so that it looks like PCM 3.0. Don't know which manufacturer. Mine is a little older (I'm guessing) since it's running Android 7.1.1. The model is listed as "px3 (1024X600 O)".
It already has a dongle, but no Autoplay or other CarPlay app installed, so that's the first order of business. I'd like to get a manual so that I can figure out a couple of basic things that have eluded me, like switching the temperature display from Celsius to Fahrenheit, downloading updates, etc. I've been unsuccessful in finding a user manual on the Erisin or Seicane sites. Does anyone have the manual .pdf or at least a link to it? Thanks!
It already has a dongle, but no Autoplay or other CarPlay app installed, so that's the first order of business. I'd like to get a manual so that I can figure out a couple of basic things that have eluded me, like switching the temperature display from Celsius to Fahrenheit, downloading updates, etc. I've been unsuccessful in finding a user manual on the Erisin or Seicane sites. Does anyone have the manual .pdf or at least a link to it? Thanks!
#713
Advanced
I recently purchased 08 GTS that has one of these Android head units already installed. It's one of the ones w/ the two SD card slots, so that it looks like PCM 3.0. Don't know which manufacturer. Mine is a little older (I'm guessing) since it's running Android 7.1.1. The model is listed as "px3 (1024X600 O)".
It already has a dongle, but no Autoplay or other CarPlay app installed, so that's the first order of business. I'd like to get a manual so that I can figure out a couple of basic things that have eluded me, like switching the temperature display from Celsius to Fahrenheit, downloading updates, etc. I've been unsuccessful in finding a user manual on the Erisin or Seicane sites. Does anyone have the manual .pdf or at least a link to it? Thanks!
It already has a dongle, but no Autoplay or other CarPlay app installed, so that's the first order of business. I'd like to get a manual so that I can figure out a couple of basic things that have eluded me, like switching the temperature display from Celsius to Fahrenheit, downloading updates, etc. I've been unsuccessful in finding a user manual on the Erisin or Seicane sites. Does anyone have the manual .pdf or at least a link to it? Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
TedStriker (04-28-2020)
#714
Can't help you with a manual, pretty much none of these Android stereos come with a manual, and if they do, they are usually pretty useless. However, you should be able to go to settings and just look for options. For updates, it is through the playstore, just like with your phone.
#715
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, it does not appear that the head units support internet over bluetooth,
The following users liked this post:
TedStriker (04-28-2020)
#716
Advanced
Like Brainz said, I turn on wifi tethering on my phone and connect through the wifi on the headunit. The headunit connects to your phone connection the same way your phone connects to any wifi connection. On other Android headunits, I have experimented with using one of those dongles that you put your sim card in. It works good, but I just got tired of maintaining an account just for data connection in the car. It was more practical for me to use the data connection from my phone.
#717
Thanks, everyone. I've gone down the XDA forum rabbit hole to see how else I can confuse myself about this head unit. Ultimately, I think I'm going to pony up for a Dynavin, but for now I'll be content to get CarPlay working with one of the dongles.
#718
I read the thread but I am not really an audiophile and I know about squat about car audio.
Could someone tell me if this receiver would be the best choice of the bunch?
https://www.seicane.com/android-2003...p-video-s6941g
Also, what about the options? I put them below, but the description of the options isn't much help from the web site. Some are obvious (the 4g dongle for instance), but what things like?
1. Support original car's optical fiber decoding box?
2. Night vision parking camera?
3. DAB+?
4. External OBDII?
5. Do I have to order the android auto usb dongle? Or can I just use a usb cord?
Could someone tell me if this receiver would be the best choice of the bunch?
https://www.seicane.com/android-2003...p-video-s6941g
Also, what about the options? I put them below, but the description of the options isn't much help from the web site. Some are obvious (the 4g dongle for instance), but what things like?
1. Support original car's optical fiber decoding box?
2. Night vision parking camera?
3. DAB+?
4. External OBDII?
5. Do I have to order the android auto usb dongle? Or can I just use a usb cord?
#719
OK, I figured out most of it.
It does want an audio adapter or original fiber support. I have the bose set up (I saw the sub woofer in the back under the trunk carpet). I need the fiber support? It says only MB stuff on the web page, but I assume that is generic?
It does want an audio adapter or original fiber support. I have the bose set up (I saw the sub woofer in the back under the trunk carpet). I need the fiber support? It says only MB stuff on the web page, but I assume that is generic?
#720
I hope I am posting in the correct thread.
I have the Seicane unit and I am installing it. I am not much for car audio, but I just about have this figured out. My car was a drug seizure car so the crack peddlers that had it prior to me did a bunch of customizations.
I am having two issues:
1. The back up camera doesn't work. I have only one wire that runs from the camera to the unit. I put an RCA adapter on it but that did not help. I just get a yellow triangle when I plug it into the RCA jack for the reverse camera.
2. The Steering Wheel controls are not working as advertised. I got to the screen (I took a picture) and all it does is put buttons when I click something is go to another screen briefly and return to this screen. Any idea what I do here?
I have the Seicane unit and I am installing it. I am not much for car audio, but I just about have this figured out. My car was a drug seizure car so the crack peddlers that had it prior to me did a bunch of customizations.
I am having two issues:
1. The back up camera doesn't work. I have only one wire that runs from the camera to the unit. I put an RCA adapter on it but that did not help. I just get a yellow triangle when I plug it into the RCA jack for the reverse camera.
2. The Steering Wheel controls are not working as advertised. I got to the screen (I took a picture) and all it does is put buttons when I click something is go to another screen briefly and return to this screen. Any idea what I do here?